Official Pioneer Avic F90BT Install Thread

I left the factory speakers in for now, and have them hooked up to the Pioneer directly (except for the 6x9 subs which are still hooked up to the factory amp that is part of the 12 speaker audiophile system).

The sound is WAY better than the factory system. Even the subs sound better than what they did with the factory head unit.

However, once you start getting a little bit of a great thing, you'll want more of it. I'm already planning on getting some "real" subs and eventually replacing the door speakers and driving them from a separate amp.

If you just replace your head unit, you won't be disappointed. It will still be a HUGE jump in sound quality from your factory unit. I'm definitely speaking from experience on that one.

TRU
 
ok do you need an adapter for the 6*9 connection or is that all covered in first two posts?

thanks again for helping out so much, want to have total cost and plan in place
 
No adapter needed for the amp connection. It is covered in the adapter harness you need to purchase to go in-between your car's factory harness and the aftermarket radio (see first post for part number and site to get it from).

You'll need to pick up a 1500 ohm resistor from radio shack and wire it between the amp turn-on wire in the small block of the adapter harness and the aftermarket's radio harness. It will be easy to see where once you have all the harness laid out and start to connect them together.

TRU
 
thanks again, I am sure I will be contacting you again soon :)
 
TheArchaic1 said:
Actually you can get a subscription from Sirius/XM and get both of the services. They have it set up now kind of like a cable company where you can pay for what you want. I have had Sirius for almost 5 years now, and I think that it blows the content on XM away (my opinion). But, my subscription is a lifetime one, and I have no monthly fees. When the merger of the two satellite companies was approved by the FCC, Sirius said that I cold add the available XM channels to my line up for a cost of $6.99 a month. I didn't think it was worth the money to pay for 15 channels when I already have over 150 Sirius channels.
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actually after the merger they went through they re-amped the channel line up for music and out of the 70ish music channels they now share about 60 (the same channel is on both services but different channel numbers) and then they also give you the option to add the "best of sirius on XM" and "the best of XM on sirius", and for 6.99 you get a few of the other channels exclusive content,for XM listeners you get Stern, Martha, NFL, NASCAR, and playboy radio. with sirius listeners you get Oprah, NHL, PGA, XM public radio, and the Virus, however each system has quite a few exclusive news, talk, and a couple of music that the other doesn't have
 
another one for ya guys :)

is there anything besides the vss that needs to be connected besides the wiring harness?

I want to make sure I understand every detail before I get started
 
Most of the connections are going to be done at the harnesses of the radio and the adapter harness that will just plug into your factory harness connectors.

When you do the hardware bypass on the Avic (which I strongly recommend you do) you will wire both the parking brake wire and the mute wire on the radio's harness to ground.

You're going to tap into the ash tray's orange wire for the illumination/dimmer wire on the radio's harness. Make sure you tap into it BEFORE the circular switch that will eventually lead to the light itself.

If you have the factory 6x9 subs, get that 1500 ohm resistor I mentioned before and wire it in on the amp turn-on wire (called remote control wire or something like that - there will be two blue wires in the small adapter harness plug) the area I referenced a few posts ago. Your subs will use the WHITE rca wire in that harness plug. The red one will go to your console effect speakers (I did not reconnect these).

You're also going to want to get the PAC SWI-PS for the steering wheel control. That will have it's own instructions, and you're only going to use 3 wires out its harness. It's very easy to set up and program.

Everything else is pretty straightforward. Trust me, I was a little worried myself, and I was able to get through it.

Just post if you run into questions or snags when you do the install - there's a few of us that can help you out.

TRU



Most of what you'll need to do is listed up in the first couple postings of the thread, and you can find a few more threads that will have some info.
 
your also gonna need the reverse wire since you plan on installing a back up cammera, i got mine at the back up lights since the camera was back there anyway
 
1LoudLS said:
your also gonna need the reverse wire since you plan on installing a back up cammera, i got mine at the back up lights since the camera was back there anyway
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You can also pick it up at one of the connectors behind the trim on the passenger side of the package tray, or at the rearview mirror. However, if you're already at the lights to install the camera, you might as well get it there. I would wire the camera power to switched accessory power, and not to the backup lights.
 
your right joe,i would not power the camera up from the lights. I got power from the acc wire @ the AVIC, reverse wire @ the back up lights, and grounded @ a clean piece of metal in the trunk
 
Sorry for doing this, but I have a question on the top panel, in the middle of the console. It is the one that has the 2 vents, and the "fuel/reset/setup/status" buttons in it.

How does it come off? Are these stuck on with clips? Will those "Christmas tree" clip tools remove these? A plastic wedge, with some prying force???

My buttons pushed into the panel, and I cant get them back flush, without taking this piece out completely.
 
Garbone, just take a jeweler's flat blade screwdriver or a butter knife and slide it between the panel and the dash itself about 1/2" up from the bottom of the panel on each side. Once you get it in, gently pry in (pushing your grip away from the panel) and it should start to pop off - at least enough for you to get your fingers on the edge of it to pull it out the rest of the way.

The clips are just a pressure fit, and you'll find that if you're careful with the prying, it should come out no problem.

TRU
 
Garbone has asked that question in at least 5 other threads
 
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