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Set the governor to 145 and see if you can do 145.

I converted to Accel 4.6L 2V coils, part 140032, and got 80K-miles out of them until my valve cover gasket leaked and took them out. They aren't a direct swap because you have to swap the pins in the coil connector and they don't bolt to the stock location.

That makes me think that you'll have to reprogram the transplanted ECM/Cluster to accept the old keys for the chassis you are keeping. You could probably use a regular (non-pats) key to turn the ignition and then just hold the old transplanted ECM/Cluster key up against the dash to get it to...

The OEM/Motorcraft COPs always seemed to act up on me after 30K miles or so. After the second failure aroudn 60K-miles I replaced them with an Accel 4.6L 2V Coil. The Accel coils I got 80K-miles out of and probably would have gotten more if the O-Ring didn't fail on the valve cover. Oil seeped...

The scoop should be here Friday and hopefully it'll all be done Saturday. Then I'll post up pics of what I had to do and finish the instructions.

According to the Jaguar engineers this setup only has about a 2-hp difference between doing exactly that. That's why I'm all for it. Plus it'll sound better and less BS in the engine bay!

Just confirmed, the Jag is a 5-pin MAF and the LS is a 6-pin MAF, so definitely NOT compatible :)

So I have plans to put a real CAI on my LS. This is all the result of a couple hours of mental gymnastics when I couldn't sleep last night but so far things are looking good. I'll be updating this thread/post as things progress in order to make sure anyone following after me has the correct...

Go to an HVAC store and look for a 3" duct damper. Has a little handle on the side and a wing nut to lock it in place. Then you just reach under the bumper and close it. Or pop the hood and close it. Either/or.

I personally don't see this giving you any gains or helping with heat soak while staging or even at launch. I think it would have benefits after 30-feet or so at WOT. By then you'll have a cold air charge running through the system fast enough that heat soak shouldn't really be much of an issue...

The issue I see is excessive water getting splashed up through the duct and hitting a paper filter element. Once the paper gets wet it will expand causing a restriction that is not due to it technically being dirty. Once the filter dries back out it would be fine. The big difference is water...

Pretty much what you've already laid out. Do a complete drivetrain strip-down of both cars, transplant the V8 ECU/PCM/wiring-harness and relevant wiring to the good chassis, then transplant the engine/transmission/whatever else to the good chassis. Not really much of a game plan other then just...

Considering the threads were crossed/messed up to begin with it might be the better option anyways. Slowly drill the bolt out in steps until it comes out easily, then just do a thread repair.

Have to try and use an easy out. Method is pretty simple, although it's a real pain in the ass on small bolts. But basically, you will drill down through the center of the bolt and then screw in a reverse thread tool that looks kind of like a tap. It will then bite into the bolt and hopefully...

More like 3-yr/36K-miles or less on the OEM COPs and DCCV in my car. I'm still rocking the original cooling system stuff at 11 years and 140K-miles later. It's the one issue I HAVEN'T had with my car yet. COPs, DCCV, and Toe Links I've all been through at least once, most twice. The DCCV I've...

Damn, I'd take the seats and rear end but it's a 16-hour drive for pick-up and shipping for that would likely be just as much as what you're asking. Always my luck!

Man, I live in Florida. Even as a track/drivers car, you still leave the AC hooked up unless it's a trailer queen.

I get it, I've been there and done that. However, I'd still plan to get one at some point in the next 6 months though. The DCCV is as notorious as the COPs on these cars for failing in non-obvious ways. Just my 2-cents and YMMV.

I would still spring for the $80 to get a new one and put it in. Those things are NOTORIOUS for failing. I wouldn't touch a used one of those other then for 'diagnostic' purposes.

Frame mounts should be the same. The real problem is going to be putting the V8 ECU into the V6 car. These things can be notorious for finicky electrical issues. SO probably going to have to swap quiet a few things over.