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the first time i unplugged the secondary pump put a cap on the return from the pump on the water inlet housing and two on the T junction of the main upper radiator hose it worked but you lose functionality like a proper circulating degass bottle and you dont the benifit of the secondary...

time to look at my ls again last time i changed the dccv and i couldnt get it to stay cool even at idle it would overheat i was reworking my steps i managed to score a couple dccv valves but still no go getting foam out the bleeder i saw a few drips and assuming my heater core is bad not...

ive got a 1st gen ls with the v8 :) im looking for a part number for the uppermanifold to carb coolant line i believe its a plug for the coolant line to run from the manifold to the carb that is under the intake over the manifold i believe there is a plug that the line comes out of it may...

reminds me i had to pull out the 11mm wing nut wrench today not exactly euro :rolleyes:

I know what happens when water gets in the hole youll get a flag plus a bucky feeling thought they ohm out to something more or less a coil impedance should match

ive had her parked for a while kept overheating on me after a change of dccv think the lil gromet on the bottom of the manifold could be the problem or worse the heater core is punked up ... drove it a couple thousand miles around the lakes to the yards with the heater core bypassed when i...

i dont understand why they didnt put the ls with the ls in the first place i think of those flashing traction control lights as an impediment weather or not to take it off line regarding the true feature of the car to pass like a simple roadster why didnt they incorporate lsd into the...

thanks for some reason i got 195 as the figure .... reason for insanity like my fan was cycling early and weird during purging the system ... it didnt come on at all the last couple times my obd2 scanner states temps to 213 and like the fan is on but like on the first notch of its routine so...

you would think it would draw in when cooling off like its supposed too this time didnt do that

working with keeping it cool right now 11/21 with a new tstat housing and new carcraft thermostat ... getting a lot of steam and overheat conditions .... letn it cool adding more to the fill cock not the degas bottle i have repeated this aprox 4 times now adding to the fill note 9nm is all...

there is tw o holes in the block for the plenum for water not air

heater cores makes bubbles next delete

more specific question if i look at the pick one of those lines is return from block

can i have a degas bottle prob or possibly no circ situation like that degas bottle not move

put more coolant in still climbs heard aux/electric working this time fan didnt run till it got to hot .....have to shut down reseated connector put about 30 ounces coolant in it going to try again still have too much coolant in degas its slow purging ither steady stream clear drip or...

again from the top new jag thermostat housing it wouldnt keep its cool this time even nice like when i bought it i was thinking it was purging slow but good i burped the hoses a little nice drip steady out the purge watching for 10 minutes got the the mid line on the thermostat had the heater...

pardon i must be thinking 70's

probobly use that on my vw noticed some stains from rust global coolant comes up different a few state not to dilute it ...the ls i feel must have a short range and heat problems my t stat housing is warped hence changing think its good to run the eco friendly coolant vw does but there...

probably should press fit some energy suspension bushings rather than buy the control arms complete although there getting better but doubtful better than vulcanized real rubber or original .... e worst is letting it rust out use some jasco rust and primer under there and replace...