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If they all don't work, I agree it's probably not all the actuators failed at once. I would guess the DDM can just send signal to the central thing that's not working, so replacing that wouldn't do anything. Electrical things that move something physically like a lock usually have a fuse and a...

When my LS got stuck in the mud at a cabin innawoods, I put the chain hook in one of the holes in the front crossmember thing with the jack points. Figured if it was strong enough for jacking, it could take a few hundred pounds of pull. Held fine, at least enough to make it out, but it was...

The degas sh*t the bed soon after my last post (big puddle), so I ordered a new one and a DCCV to go with (both OEM). No issues replacing degas other than having to cut one of the hoses off. There was some kind of corrosion or something on the aluminum tube so that there was some caked deposit...

Thanks for the response joegr (sorry about another overheat thread ). Interesting that the 5-5 beep is SRS. The 3-6 airbag light flash is the broken wire under the seat. What does the beep mean? I topped off degas this morning with the engine cold and drove about 2 hours today mix of...

Hi all. 2002 V6 101k miles. I think my DCCV is finally dead. When A/C started not blowing cold in the summer several (at least 10) years ago, I got by doing the turn temp all the way down to 60 trick. This trick stopped working last summer (just kept climate control off). A couple months...

To repair the rear stripped hole, I bought a $10 6mm x 1.0 threaded insert kit (aka heli-coil) off ebay that came with a drill and tap. But not the T-handle to drive the tap. So I got the Harbor Freight tap/die kit for like $15 since a T-handle was several bucks anyways. But now I had to...

Wow, so it's almost 5 years since I last did the coils. I cheaped out on them last time (generic ebay), which is why I think I'm back in there now (even though 5 years, only another ~15k mi). One coil failed a couple years ago (luckily driver side), but things were ok until I started getting...

Couple other notes: Like AmsterDutch said, loosening the fuse box does make it easier to get to the passenger front UCA nut. There are a bunch of tabs on the fuse box, some of which seem to hold the top and bottom together. Only the 3 big ones are necessary to move it: the two in the back...

Replaced the upper control arms. Turns out you need to take the shock out in order to remove the arm-to-body bolts since the nuts are on the engine side. My trepidation regarding the coil spring was unfounded, as there is no chance of releasing the spring tension when removing it (it's the...

Replaced the outer tie rods yesterday. Driver side went well. Vice-grips fit perfectly on the splined section of the inner tie rod, simply braced against the LCA to unscrew the outer using a large adjustable wrench (after loosening the jam nut). The trick where you count the number of...

After some more investigation, it seems grabbing the tire to look for play requires the tires in the air, which I didn't do previously. With one tire up (so the other provides steering resistance), I found some play holding at 9 and 3, which would seem to indicate worn tie rods, although I...

So I drove it up and down the driveway, making S-turns lock to lock, steering felt normal (and no traction control light). It's like Sincoln's experience where it's like something broke loose and then somehow popped back in. I put the front up on jack stands (instead of ramps) today, and with...

'02 V6 Sport 93k Needed brake job, had already ordered pads and front rotors. Had trouble removing the front caliper bracket bolt that goes thru the knuckle (bracket bolts are loctited), so just put the new front pads on. Test drive resulted in a lot of vibration above 30mph, seemed to quiet...

Recently did the clockspring, so had the battery disconnected for a while. When I reconnected the battery, I was able to move the seat, at least right after restoring power. No movement again the next day. So as an experiment, I pulled the #7 fuse to remove power to the seat for a while...

I have the sport bar (30mm). The Rockauto part was Uro XR819697. Only been a couple weeks, but the bushings are still quiet.

That's correct about not needing to remove the nut entirely to extract the dccv, but I was just moving the dccv bracket to access the sway bar bushing. Did the passenger side last night. Others have mentioned tying the dccv to something to get it out of the way, but I was able to just shove it...

Yeah, I found the link description, and I think the blue is the nylon lock stuff. Just looking around online, I found a set of ball joint/link nuts at pep boys, but it was like $10 just for the 4 nuts, of which I need only one (maybe two if I need to move the sway bar to put the passenger side...

I reattached the pics above. The OEM bushings were split on the bottom so you could install/remove from the top. The new ones are split on the side.

Ok, so now I figured out that DSM is driver seat module. I think maybe that's my problem, as my seat still doesn't move (after I messed w/ the fuse, it moved using the switch right afterwards, but not since). Since the switch worked for a second, I think it's still good. But since I can't...

'02 V6 Sport 90k miles I hit a speed bump too fast several months ago, and I noticed a clunking sound over bumps at low speeds ever since. I gather (from this forum) that it's probably the sway bar bushings, so I decided to tackle it. I ordered the bushings from rockauto, I think probably the...