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I'll keep an eye on things. This is the spot I'll be coming if things don't feel like they're working right. Yes, I plan to watch the degas for a while and the engine temp. I'm not taking your $10 bet though, since you're probably right. Be primed for a big I told you so when it happens...

*Sorry for the double post*

Thx for the reply. I did bleed the system...drive around and bleed it again. All seems well, it didn't really take up much coolant from my bottle. Overall it was a 4 Bounty towel cleanup of liquid. :-)

I just thought I'd close out my comments on this thread. I did finally get around to replacing my DCCV today. I opted for the "pinching the hoses" method instead of draining the coolant. It was a tight space to operate in, but some fancy hand work and sore knuckles later she's back up and...

I did check and the fuse did not blow with the car running. Not until I stopped, reconnected the DCCV, then restarted. Thanks for the info though.

I'm not sure what most people call them, so I just used the name from this website: Hose Clamp Pliers Set | Tool Aid

After replacing the fuse I DID have voltage on both connectors during the J2 test. That points to a bad DCCV according to the pinpoint tests. For fun I replaced the connector and fired up the car.....blew the fuse right away. The fuse that I missed is exactly why I posted here to the...

You're spot-on. I just checked the fuse and it's blown. I'll pop over to grab a new one and test the voltage on the plug with a good fuse.

Admittedly I didn't see that on this site, I found it here: Fix Your Car With Your Own Hands

2004 Lincoln LS8 One day while parked with the car running, the AC just decided to start blowing full heat out of both driver and passenger sides. Right off the bat I suspected the DCCV. Sooo....I ran the diagnostic. I get a 2798 and 1265. Throwing out the 1265, I went to climate...

I've done a little LVC website research on the DCCV and I think I have this one correct, just in case I'd like to ask the experts. Situation: - Air on drivers side is cool, passenger is not cool. Not hot.....just not cooled. If I was to drive on a hot day though I'm ok as the driver in...

I suppose it's possible that Dorman forgot to tap it on the production line. It seemed like it would have been tap-able to the proper thread if I have a tap and die set....which I don't.

My bad, I thought the instructions were to bolt it on...install....unbolt and then index motor. Having gone through it again I realize that doesn't really make sense. Thanks for the help, BTW. Now it's time to fix window #2 in my new vehicle addition (the 2004 LS). For my next trick...

I did my drivers front regulator replacement successfully today. I ended up purchasing the Dorman unit from Amazon. I ran into one unexpected issue...the regulator wasn't threaded to accept the Torx headed bolt that held on the motor from my original unit. That was mildly annoying, but I...

That's what I did. Amazon with prime shipping. I'm willing to pay Brick and mortar stores money for instant gratification, but if they have to order it too, I'll do it myself and save the money.

So I finally got around to taking apart the drivers door on my 2004 and I found a new window regulator failure for me....wire pull through. It seems that the wire somehow was wrapped around the section where the motor drives the gear and that must have pulled it. So I did my normal regulator...

I'll consider the clips once I see the state of everything in the door. I've had the metal wires dug into at least one of my green pulleys in the past so that one was shot no matter what. As for the cause, I tend to put up all windows before leaving the car since I have this fear of it...

Hello all....first post, be gentle. I'm the well seasoned owner of a 2000 LS8 and a new owner of a VERY low mileage 2004 LS8. ( History of the 2000: No less than 4 windows regulator replacements, one plug replacement on a rear window, paid for the gasket replacement to eliminate the oil in...