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I dont remember exactly where it starts from on the manifold but just pull them off and inspect the lines, They do crack. Any hollow rubber line needs to be inspected. Alot of vids on U tube about P0172 codes. A little searching can give you alot of ideas to check.

The Vac line is in the back of the manifold. When the lines crack, you cant see it until you bend them. P0172 is upstream oxygen sensor is bad. I dont remember if its the right side or left side one but one is an easy change while the other is a PITA to get at. Hope its the easy side.......

Pug off the VAC going into the fire wall to the AC/heat controller. The controllers have ALOT of O rings in them that can get dry and shrink enough to give you leaks. There is a U tube vid that shows you how to replace all those little O rings. I did that to no avail and ended up buying a used...

From what Iv read, the track stop that the steering shaft rides on breaks and makes the motor stuck that rides the shaft in n out. Saw some pictures of the fix and its pretty involved with basically a full steering wheel tear down to get at the faulty parts. Thank fully, mine is stuck pretty...

Try unhooking the MAF. If the car smoothens out, that could be your issue. Also, make sure your Vac lines are good. Mine had tiny cracks in them that messes up the AC / heat controler. You can test Vac lines with a "smoker" device. Did you try putting your old IAC back on?

Here is what I was talking about. Those carboned up round flaps should only open once the RPM's hit 3000 and above that they should be peged at WOT. If they are stuck as some have reported, you can get what Biguz is describing. Thats why its all ways good to do occasional WOT runs just to free...

the crank position sensor goes bad often enough on these cars and should be changed as well. if that doesn't help, I'd look into the secondary intake flaps to see if they are shut at idel and only opening over the 3K rpm mark. if they are sticking, it sounds like what you have. Way too much air...

Just up several replys from here and you see the picture with the aluminum 3m tape. That 2 3/8ths" white hole saw is used to cut a hole in the bottom corner of the housing and then once you get the cup out through that hole, tape it up as pictured.

Get rid of the air bags for springs. Alot of folks do it to rid them selves of aging rubber components that just dont stand the test of time like shocks and springs. The trans solenoid codes you have can be the shift solenoid as indicated or a broken valve spring in the valve body (common). Or...

Read this link, There are a few things to try in it. Its possible your PATS is not reading your key any more? Hope you find the answer.

This is the best write up on chair motors. All tho, there is a plastic gear drive in the seat that has alot to do with movement and it simply wears out. Not sure on where that one is located. One guy found that if the seat tracks are not flat as built, tightening them down on the no so flat...

I dont remember if there was a gasket or O ring in there but my leak was from the rusted/corroded pipes on the housing. Heres my fix from 5 years ago Repairing a rotten lower Thermostat Housing You really need to pull the hoses off entirely and give it a complete looking over for rot.

Congrats on the 95 ride. IDK if the 95 has the same set up of the 97 but here is an article I wrote up for mine. https://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/ams/cruise-control-switch-recall-diy-fix.92/ I also wrote up an exhaust article here up in Articles. Might give you some thing to think about...

Could be a bad coil pack, give that a try or even a bad fuel pump if the filter is good.

Should have said, oil filter housing "gasket" not plate.

A common problem on these 4.6 engines. The Valve covers usually start leaking as you found out. I had 2 leakers 20K ago and haven't looked at them since but know the valve cover gaskets need to be changed. I think the drivers side needs the engine jacked up only on that side to get the cover...

When I put in a dbl din unit in mine, I wired the standard low level wires into the OEM amp and taped off the RCA ones. The OEM amp runs great. No issues for years now but I did put in new speakers as well.

The basic things to check are the vacuum lines coming off the intake. Once the rubber gets hot it may let more air suck threw them. also, check the spark plug ports for oil infiltration. Once there is enough oil filling around the spark plug, you can get just what you are saying about rough...

4 year old maps? I wouldnt be fazed by that one bit. Just run it. Any way, the google answer came back as this " A microSD card with at least 4 GB of space must be used when updating the maps on a device."

Its been over 3 years since I put these speakers in the car running off a Boss BN965BLC head unit. Everything works pretty good with loads of bass if you want it. The equalizer is capable of extreme Hz frequencies with the boost feature on so its easy to sculpt your sound to precisely the way...