02 LS V8 Bad Fuel Cannister/Vent Valve

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bagman52

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Local shop did smoke test and says my canister and vent valve are bad. Quoted $1800 to fix. Is there a DIY for this? Based on the estimate I am guessing it is a beast of a repair.
 
bagman52 said:
... Based on the estimate I am guessing it is a beast of a repair.
Click to expand...

Remove exhaust
Remove driveshaft
Drain gas tank
Remove rear subframe

Yes, I would call that very major.
 
That is what I was afraid of. Can this realistically been done on jack stands or is it really a job that requires a lift? Seems like a crazy amount of work for P0456... Ugh.
 
joegr said:
Remove exhaust
Remove driveshaft
Drain gas tank
Remove rear subframe
Click to expand...
I'm going out on a limb here ...is the 2006 2nd Gen EVAP Canister Vent solenoid set up differently than the 1st Gen? In the 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop manual it doesn't look like the tank needs to be dropped? My other question ... Is the Evaporative Emission Canister Vent Solenoid accessible to get to without removing subframe on the 2006 LS? I have the P0455 code and might have to dive into replacing these components? Here is the two diagrams from the 2006 LS Workshop ....

Evaporative Emission Canister Vent Solenoid
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Printable View (86 KB)

Material
Item Specification
Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
XO-5W-20-QSP (in Canada Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12) or equivalent WSS-M2C930-A

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Item Part Number Description
1 14A464 Evaporative emissions (EVAP) canister vent solenoid electrical connector (part of 9L468)
2 9E616 Fuel vapor tube
3 9F945 EVAP canister vent solenoid
Removal and Installation

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WARNING: The evaporative emission system contains fuel vapor and condensed fuel vapor. Although not present in large quantities, it still presents the danger of explosion or fire. Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery to minimize the possibility of an electrical spark occurring, possibly causing a fire or explosion if fuel vapor or liquid fuel are present in the area. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.

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WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited, resulting in possible personal injury.

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WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related components. Highly flammable mixtures are present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injuries.

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Disconnect the evaporative emissions (EVAP) canister vent solenoid electrical connector.
  1. Disconnect the EVAP hose and remove the EVAP canister vent solenoid.
  1. NOTE: Make sure the electrical connector harness is correctly routed.

    NOTE: To ease installation, lubricate the inside of the EVAP hose with clean engine oil.

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  1. Carry out the evaporative emission system leak test. For additional information, refer to Evaporative Emission System Leak Test in this section.
  1. Carry out the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle. For additional information, refer to Evaporative Emission Repair Verification Drive Cycle in this section.




SECTION 303-13: Evaporative Emissions
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Procedure revision date: 06/24/2005
Evaporative Emission Canister
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Printable View (145 KB)
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Item Part Number Description
1 — Fuel vapor tube quick connect coupling (part of 9E857)
2 14A464 Evaporative emissions (EVAP) canister electrical connector (part of 9L468)
3 14A464 EVAP canister electrical connector (part of 9L468)
4 W503925 EVAP canister bracket assembly bolts (4 required)
5 9E857 EVAP canister assembly
Removal and Installation

s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
WARNING: The evaporative emission system contains fuel vapor and condensed fuel vapor. Although not present in large quantities, it still presents the danger of explosion or fire. Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery to minimize the possibility of an electrical spark occurring, possibly causing a fire or explosion if fuel vapor or liquid fuel are present in the area. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.

s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel-related component. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited, resulting in possible personal injury.

s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related components. Highly flammable mixtures are present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injuries.

  1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
  1. Remove the rear subframe. For additional information, refer to Section 502-00 .
  1. Disconnect the fuel vapor tube quick connect coupling. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .
  1. Disconnect the 2 evaporative emissions (EVAP) canister electrical connectors.
  1. Remove the 4 EVAP canister bracket assembly bolts and the EVAP canister and bracket assembly.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  1. Carry out a leak test. For additional information, refer to Evaporative Emission System Leak Test in this section.
  1. Carry out the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle. For additional information, refer to Evaporative Emission Repair Verification Drive Cycle in this section.
 
I said to drain the fuel tank, not remove it.
The fuel filler has to come off to get the subframe out.
 
joegr said:
I said to drain the fuel tank, not remove it.
The fuel filler has to come off to get the subframe out.
Click to expand...
You're right ...I misread your post...I'm sorry about that...On the 2006 LS the Vent Canister solenoid is accessible without removing the subframe correct?
 
bagman52 said:
Local shop did smoke test and says my canister and vent valve are bad. Quoted $1800 to fix. Is there a DIY for this? Based on the estimate I am guessing it is a beast of a repair.
Click to expand...

It definitely is a tough repair, but that seems a little high. Does that $1800 include parts?

As a data point, I paid $480 plus tax a year ago to have my '02 smoked, the tank dropped, and some leaks at the molded-in bits repaired by my local Ford dealer here in ETN.
 
That does include parts. I was thinking of taking it to the local Lincoln dealer to have them verify the diagnosis. I have had good luck with the shop that diagnosed it but they have changed owners and a lot of the staff has changed and they are not acting like a local independent shop anymore. I also noticed they changed their warranty policy from 36/36 to 12/12.
 
Is this an anomaly or inevitable? Every time I think I like this car, she kicks me in nut sac.
 
So I did a reset on the P0456. I have driven just over 100miles and so far no light. Last time light came on after 200 miles. I want to try to sneak in an inspection if I can. How many miles do you need to drive to have the sensor show ready and the car can be inspected? Is 100 miles enough to complete a "drive cycle"?
 
bagman52 said:
...How many miles do you need to drive to have the sensor show ready and the car can be inspected? Is 100 miles enough to complete a "drive cycle"?
Click to expand...

There is not a fixed minimum number of miles, because it depends on a lot of conditions. Temperatures, speeds, fuel levels, ...
Many scan tools (Forscan for sure) can tell you if all the monitors are complete or which ones aren't yet.
 
Jtown said:
Is this an anomaly or inevitable? Every time I think I like this car, she kicks me in nut sac.
Click to expand...

That's like asking the doctor if you are going to die. The answer is always yes, and rarely can they give you a narrow range of when.
 
joegr said:
There is not a fixed minimum number of miles, because it depends on a lot of conditions. Temperatures, speeds, fuel levels, ...
Many scan tools (Forscan for sure) can tell you if all the monitors are complete or which ones aren't yet.
Click to expand...
All but one of my systems clear in 20 miles or so based on inconsistent checking after a battery disconnect. Evap seems to take a thousand miles though. NJ allows one single system to be "not ready" so it's not a concern for me at inspection. The Android app Torque gives a nice System Readiness table that I keep on one of the extra screens. Torque is a little easier to quickly check basic OBDII items than Forscan. No recommendations for iPhone/iOS though
 
I have the same problem. I did a reset and was able to see the test complete in about 3-4 days of driving. Somewhere I have a document that specifies the test conditions. Something about outside air temp when starting. I was able to sneak it through the smog test. I've found on several vehicles that the codes that cause me the most grief are those that test the emissions controls. On my Jeep I had a code that the air pump used to test the evap system wasn't working. Turns out the problem was my ECU. I long for the old days...
 
joegr said:
Remove exhaust
Remove driveshaft
Drain gas tank
Remove rear subframe

Yes, I would call that very major.
Click to expand...
Imagine that....Joe is correct again...yes after inspecting the Canister Vent solenoid valve last night I saw with my own eyes that it's in a less than desirable spot...you're spot on when you say "Major"
 
Still no light after more than 500 miles. Car past inspection. Beginning to think the shop may have been trying to take me for a ride or the system healed itself.
 
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