I recently purchased a 1996 town car sign series. And I seem to be getting a wind noise from the front windshield. Their are no water leaks and I had a windshield technician look at it. He duct taped the entire windshield molding in order to pinpoint the noise and I still got the same air noise with the entire windshield molding duct taped but, you can't really feel the air inside the car. He stated that their was nothing wrong with the windshield seal and that I should ride other town cars to compare if this is normal. Has anyone else experienced something like this? I find it hard to beleive that a high end car would be so noisy. The noise really only starts once I reach the 45 miles speeds. I am a little disappointed with this and I am considerning putting in a new windshield but he stated that I would be waisting my money
1996 Lincoln Town car Air Noise inside car
- Thread starter Chino
- Start date
H
HizHonor
Guest
Chino, I have a 92 TC and I have that same wind noise. I had the windshield seal checked, the trim checked; the door seals are flexible and tight;trunk seals are flexible and tight. If you find out where YOUR noise is comning from, clue us in will ya? I'm thinking it's somewhere on the firewall... maybe something to do with the auto climate control or possibly there's a blend door problem but on my car, all vent, a/c, heat, defrost work properly. I dunno... maybe your car is haunted like mine is! 
bucketthead
Active LVC Member
i have a 95tc n their is a natural wind noise at speeds of bout 45 n above do to the side mirrors idk if it is not that much then this might b it r u sure it is a prob i mean if there r no leaks or nothin u just might b hearin this n their might b no prob but id still do some more investigating if u think somthing is wrong
Bucketthead thanks for the reply but. What do you mean it could be the mirrors? I know the mirrors fold in. but it sounds like the air noise comes from the top
This air noise is quite annoying and I can't believe it could be normal I was under the impression that Lincoln was known for their quite ride and comfort. I can see the comfort but it's not quite just a little dissapointed at this point
This air noise is quite annoying and I can't believe it could be normal I was under the impression that Lincoln was known for their quite ride and comfort. I can see the comfort but it's not quite just a little dissapointed at this point
bucketthead
Active LVC Member
i mean i believe it was in 95 they installed bigger side mirrors on the tc n it helped in alowing the driver to see it better but one thing they noticed was above certain speeds around 45 u could hear some air noises coming from them due to their size this can b annoying but i usually have the music loud enough to drown it out but when it is off i can hear it idk how to explain it other than an annoying little bit of sound their engine is very quite for what it is it shouldnt b that loud of a disturbance it could still b some other thing just tryin to give u a lil help if u find nothin else
92 Arizona Towncar
Active LVC Member
If I remember correctly, it's a re-call issue... Call you local Lincoln dealership and inquire about it. It should be free of charge.
No Recall Found
No such luck on Wind Noise Recalls for the TC However I purchased some service notes regarding wind noise and repair suggestions. I went to the dealer and they would not even look at the car for less than 90 Dollars and they claim that their are no recalls for that VIN #. I keep digging thanks
No such luck on Wind Noise Recalls for the TC However I purchased some service notes regarding wind noise and repair suggestions. I went to the dealer and they would not even look at the car for less than 90 Dollars and they claim that their are no recalls for that VIN #. I keep digging thanks
bjmbjm1998
New LVC Member
My wife noticed it also. It is a design flaw i guess according to LM dealer. youd think that they would know what their doing by now.
But what REALLY burned me is that plastic intake mainfold that "let go" 85 outside Albuqurque NM !! it only LM would have told the owners ! No wonder Ford is loosing market share!
But what REALLY burned me is that plastic intake mainfold that "let go" 85 outside Albuqurque NM !! it only LM would have told the owners ! No wonder Ford is loosing market share!
Dereck
Well-Known LVC Member
Hi Chino
Does this TSB from Ford help
Side Doors - Wind Noises
Article No.
99-6-5
04/05/99
WINDNOISE - AROUND SIDE DOOR(S) - SERVICE
TIPS
FORD:
1994-99 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, TAURUS
1995-99 CONTOUR
LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1994-98 MARK VIII
1994-99 CONTINENTAL, GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE, TOWN CAR, TRACER
1995-99 MYSTIQUE
LIGHT TRUCK:
1994-97 F-150-350 SERIES
1994-99 ECONOLINE, EXPLORER, RANGER
1995-99 WINDSTAR
1997-99 EXPEDITION, F-250 LD, MOUNTAINEER
1998-99 F-150, NAVIGATOR
1999 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to add model year coverage and specify a standard door weatherstrip service push pin.
ISSUE
Windnoise from the side doors may be heard on some vehicles. This may be caused by the door weatherstrip seal. This TSB article provides Service Tips for correcting this concern.
ACTION
Diagnose and repair any windnoise from door weatherstrip concerns using the following Windnoise Service Tips.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
E8AZ-19552-A Weatherstrip And Rubber Adhesive
E8AZ-19554-A Instant Adhesive
N806340-S Snap-On Push Pin
DO NOT REPLACE THE WEATHERSTRIP UNLESS IT IS:
^ Torn
^ Ripped
^ Cut
^ Deteriorated excessively
^ Material defect/abnormalities, or
Weatherstrip Windnoise or Appearance Service Tips
The following text explains attachment methods for Ford Motor Company's generic repair standards for loose and/or misaligned weatherstrips.
Flanges
are typically used on the body opening where weatherstrip retention fins grab onto each side of the sheet metal flange to retain the weatherstrip with a press fit. In cases where these weatherstrips become loose and/or misaligned, they can be reinstalled by pressing the locking retention fins back onto the sheet metal flange and stretching to provide better retention around corners. If the weatherstrip retention fins or metal carrier become damaged, it is also required that the U-section be carefully bent back into the proper shape to properly lock onto the sheet metal flange. Once replaced, check the weatherstrip for proper retention. If required, Weatherstrip and Rubber Adhesive (E8AZ-19552-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M2G14-A) should be applied to the inside of the weatherstrip U-section to bond with the sheet metal flange for proper retention force.
Sheet Metal C-Channels
are typically used on the upper perimeter of the door assembly or body panel to hold the weatherstrip molded base inside the C-channel. In cases where these weatherstrips pop out of the channel, repair by first removing the weatherstrip from the entire channel, and reassemble by sliding the molded base back into the channel. If the sheet metal channel has been damaged, it is also required that the C-channel be carefully bent back into the proper shape to retain the weatherstrip molded base.
Push Pins
are typically used on the lower perimeter of the door assembly attached to the weatherstrip. They are press fit into sheet metal holes for retention. Push pins can be gently removed by pulling the actual pin normal to the surface, out of the hole, and reinserted without damage. If a push pin is damaged, it should be replaced by first removing the existing push pin. Then, the base of a new push pin should be inserted into the weatherstrip hole, and finally press fit into the corresponding sheet metal hole. All door perimeter weatherstrip push pins should be repaired using Ford standard N806340-S.
Rivets
are used to attach some weatherstrips to the sheet metal body. In cases where a rivet becomes loose, the entire rivet should be removed and replaced with a new rivet.
Adhesive Tape
is used to adhere smaller weatherstrip sections to the painted sheet metal surface. All surfaces must be clean and dry before any weatherstrip reattachment is performed. Adhesive tears should be reattached to the painted surface using general purpose Instant Adhesive (E8AZ-19554-A or equivalent).
Verification
1. If the weatherstrip is not attached properly, reattach it correctly.
2. If the condition of the weatherstrip is good and it is attached properly, test drive the vehicle to diagnose the root cause of the windnoise. Verify the sealing contact between the door and the weatherstrip is sufficient with the 3X5" Card Test or a Chalk Test found in this TSB article.
3. If sealing contact between the weatherstrip and the door is the root cause of the windnoise, readjust the doors to contact the weatherstrips.
NOTE WEATHERSTRIP REPAIRS SHOULD NOT CREATE UNACCEPTABLE DOOR CLOSING EFFORTS, WINDNOISE CONCERNS, OR WATER LEAK CONCERNS WITH THE DOOR SYSTEM.
3X5" Card Test
1. Insert a 3x5" card between the door and the weatherstrip at the base of the A-pillar with the door closed.
2. Run the card up along the A-pillar.
If the card easily moves at any location along the A-pillar, then the sealing contact between the door and the weatherstrip is insufficient and the door should be adjusted to increase the sealing contact. This test can only be used to evaluate the A-pillar sealing contact at the margin. To evaluate sealing contact of the primary and secondary weatherstrips, a Chalk Test must be performed.
Chalk Test
1. Lightly and evenly spray the sheet metal sealing surface of the door and body with a tracing powder (chalk spray).
2. Gently close the door, applying pressure only at the latch to prevent overslam (which will give an inaccurate reading).
3. Open the door and inspect the seals for degree of compression and possible skips.
To provide adequate sealing contact, the weatherstrip-to-sheet metal contact should provide a tracing powder footprint width of 4-6 mm on the weatherstrips. Any skips or tracing powder footprints less than 3mm in width indicate insufficient door-to-weatherstrip sealing contact and the door should be adjusted to increase the sealing contact.
1. The upper and lower door hinges provide sufficient in/out adjustment to increase door contact with the dynamic weatherstrips. The door should not be pried or forced into alignment. To properly correct the door fit to the weatherstrips, the door striker and/or hinge bolts to the door must be loosened and adjusted to perform the alignment procedure. Note that the door striker only controls the in/out location of the door at the rear latch area. The hinges control the in/out location of the door at the front, and the overall tip or tilt of the door when viewed from the front or rear.
2. Review the overall fit of the door to the surrounding panels, and the amount of compression of the weatherstrip at all locations around the door. The fitting procedure is mastered sequentially from the rear of the vehicle to the front:
^ from the quarter panel to the rear door
^ from the rear door to the front door
^ then the front door to the fender
All mating surfaces should be reviewed and, if necessary, refit starting with correcting the rear door to the quarter panel and working forward.
3. The door should be adjusted to obtain proper seal compression while maintaining a good door fit. An adjustment may be required only at one hinge. For example: if the top of the door is outboard, causing a lack of seal compression around the upper door frame area, and the fit of the lower part of the door is good to the adjacent panels, an inward adjustment at only the upper hinge would be appropriate (refer to Step 5). Note that adjustments to the rear door may require additional adjustments to the front door, and then also possibly to the front fender to maintain the proper panel fit and alignment.
4. The rear of the door should be set in/out with the striker to align at the door latch area with the mating panel. If the upper or lower part of the door doesn't align to the adjacent panel, the amount of door tip must be corrected by adjustment at the hinges in order to get both the upper and lower surfaces of the door aligned or flushed to the adjacent panels.
5. The in/out setting at the front of the doors is controlled by the hinge adjustment.
^ It should be set to obtain the proper amount of seal contact, which can be determined using the 3X5" Card Test or the Chalk Test.
^ As a guideline, if there is insufficient weatherstrip contact of the door, the hinge(s) should be adjusted 2-4 mm inboard. This is accomplished by loosening the hinge~to-door bolts just enough to permit movement of the door with a padded pry bar.
^ Only one hinge should be adjusted at a time. The other tight hinge helps to prevent any drastic door movement (which may result due to the weight of the door) which will result in a complete door refitting for both up/down as well as in/out positions.
^ The amount of movement can be determined by outlining the hinge mounting area on the door prior to adjustment, and measuring the hinge movement relative to this outline after adjustment. A 2-4mm adjustment should be sufficient to return the door to within its nominal operating range.
6. Finally, the door closing effort should be checked to be sure the seal compression has not increased so much that a closing effort concern has been created. If the efforts are unacceptably high, the door may have been moved excessively inward, and should be refitted outward to a location that balances the seal compression for windnoise with closing efforts. It may be necessary to perform another 3X5" Card Test or Chalk Test to verify the final seal compression.
Regards
Dereck
Does this TSB from Ford help
Side Doors - Wind Noises
Article No.
99-6-5
04/05/99
WINDNOISE - AROUND SIDE DOOR(S) - SERVICE
TIPS
FORD:
1994-99 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, TAURUS
1995-99 CONTOUR
LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1994-98 MARK VIII
1994-99 CONTINENTAL, GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE, TOWN CAR, TRACER
1995-99 MYSTIQUE
LIGHT TRUCK:
1994-97 F-150-350 SERIES
1994-99 ECONOLINE, EXPLORER, RANGER
1995-99 WINDSTAR
1997-99 EXPEDITION, F-250 LD, MOUNTAINEER
1998-99 F-150, NAVIGATOR
1999 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to add model year coverage and specify a standard door weatherstrip service push pin.
ISSUE
Windnoise from the side doors may be heard on some vehicles. This may be caused by the door weatherstrip seal. This TSB article provides Service Tips for correcting this concern.
ACTION
Diagnose and repair any windnoise from door weatherstrip concerns using the following Windnoise Service Tips.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
E8AZ-19552-A Weatherstrip And Rubber Adhesive
E8AZ-19554-A Instant Adhesive
N806340-S Snap-On Push Pin
DO NOT REPLACE THE WEATHERSTRIP UNLESS IT IS:
^ Torn
^ Ripped
^ Cut
^ Deteriorated excessively
^ Material defect/abnormalities, or
Weatherstrip Windnoise or Appearance Service Tips
The following text explains attachment methods for Ford Motor Company's generic repair standards for loose and/or misaligned weatherstrips.
Flanges
are typically used on the body opening where weatherstrip retention fins grab onto each side of the sheet metal flange to retain the weatherstrip with a press fit. In cases where these weatherstrips become loose and/or misaligned, they can be reinstalled by pressing the locking retention fins back onto the sheet metal flange and stretching to provide better retention around corners. If the weatherstrip retention fins or metal carrier become damaged, it is also required that the U-section be carefully bent back into the proper shape to properly lock onto the sheet metal flange. Once replaced, check the weatherstrip for proper retention. If required, Weatherstrip and Rubber Adhesive (E8AZ-19552-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M2G14-A) should be applied to the inside of the weatherstrip U-section to bond with the sheet metal flange for proper retention force.
Sheet Metal C-Channels
are typically used on the upper perimeter of the door assembly or body panel to hold the weatherstrip molded base inside the C-channel. In cases where these weatherstrips pop out of the channel, repair by first removing the weatherstrip from the entire channel, and reassemble by sliding the molded base back into the channel. If the sheet metal channel has been damaged, it is also required that the C-channel be carefully bent back into the proper shape to retain the weatherstrip molded base.
Push Pins
are typically used on the lower perimeter of the door assembly attached to the weatherstrip. They are press fit into sheet metal holes for retention. Push pins can be gently removed by pulling the actual pin normal to the surface, out of the hole, and reinserted without damage. If a push pin is damaged, it should be replaced by first removing the existing push pin. Then, the base of a new push pin should be inserted into the weatherstrip hole, and finally press fit into the corresponding sheet metal hole. All door perimeter weatherstrip push pins should be repaired using Ford standard N806340-S.
Rivets
are used to attach some weatherstrips to the sheet metal body. In cases where a rivet becomes loose, the entire rivet should be removed and replaced with a new rivet.
Adhesive Tape
is used to adhere smaller weatherstrip sections to the painted sheet metal surface. All surfaces must be clean and dry before any weatherstrip reattachment is performed. Adhesive tears should be reattached to the painted surface using general purpose Instant Adhesive (E8AZ-19554-A or equivalent).
Verification
1. If the weatherstrip is not attached properly, reattach it correctly.
2. If the condition of the weatherstrip is good and it is attached properly, test drive the vehicle to diagnose the root cause of the windnoise. Verify the sealing contact between the door and the weatherstrip is sufficient with the 3X5" Card Test or a Chalk Test found in this TSB article.
3. If sealing contact between the weatherstrip and the door is the root cause of the windnoise, readjust the doors to contact the weatherstrips.
NOTE WEATHERSTRIP REPAIRS SHOULD NOT CREATE UNACCEPTABLE DOOR CLOSING EFFORTS, WINDNOISE CONCERNS, OR WATER LEAK CONCERNS WITH THE DOOR SYSTEM.
3X5" Card Test
1. Insert a 3x5" card between the door and the weatherstrip at the base of the A-pillar with the door closed.
2. Run the card up along the A-pillar.
If the card easily moves at any location along the A-pillar, then the sealing contact between the door and the weatherstrip is insufficient and the door should be adjusted to increase the sealing contact. This test can only be used to evaluate the A-pillar sealing contact at the margin. To evaluate sealing contact of the primary and secondary weatherstrips, a Chalk Test must be performed.
Chalk Test
1. Lightly and evenly spray the sheet metal sealing surface of the door and body with a tracing powder (chalk spray).
2. Gently close the door, applying pressure only at the latch to prevent overslam (which will give an inaccurate reading).
3. Open the door and inspect the seals for degree of compression and possible skips.
To provide adequate sealing contact, the weatherstrip-to-sheet metal contact should provide a tracing powder footprint width of 4-6 mm on the weatherstrips. Any skips or tracing powder footprints less than 3mm in width indicate insufficient door-to-weatherstrip sealing contact and the door should be adjusted to increase the sealing contact.
1. The upper and lower door hinges provide sufficient in/out adjustment to increase door contact with the dynamic weatherstrips. The door should not be pried or forced into alignment. To properly correct the door fit to the weatherstrips, the door striker and/or hinge bolts to the door must be loosened and adjusted to perform the alignment procedure. Note that the door striker only controls the in/out location of the door at the rear latch area. The hinges control the in/out location of the door at the front, and the overall tip or tilt of the door when viewed from the front or rear.
2. Review the overall fit of the door to the surrounding panels, and the amount of compression of the weatherstrip at all locations around the door. The fitting procedure is mastered sequentially from the rear of the vehicle to the front:
^ from the quarter panel to the rear door
^ from the rear door to the front door
^ then the front door to the fender
All mating surfaces should be reviewed and, if necessary, refit starting with correcting the rear door to the quarter panel and working forward.
3. The door should be adjusted to obtain proper seal compression while maintaining a good door fit. An adjustment may be required only at one hinge. For example: if the top of the door is outboard, causing a lack of seal compression around the upper door frame area, and the fit of the lower part of the door is good to the adjacent panels, an inward adjustment at only the upper hinge would be appropriate (refer to Step 5). Note that adjustments to the rear door may require additional adjustments to the front door, and then also possibly to the front fender to maintain the proper panel fit and alignment.
4. The rear of the door should be set in/out with the striker to align at the door latch area with the mating panel. If the upper or lower part of the door doesn't align to the adjacent panel, the amount of door tip must be corrected by adjustment at the hinges in order to get both the upper and lower surfaces of the door aligned or flushed to the adjacent panels.
5. The in/out setting at the front of the doors is controlled by the hinge adjustment.
^ It should be set to obtain the proper amount of seal contact, which can be determined using the 3X5" Card Test or the Chalk Test.
^ As a guideline, if there is insufficient weatherstrip contact of the door, the hinge(s) should be adjusted 2-4 mm inboard. This is accomplished by loosening the hinge~to-door bolts just enough to permit movement of the door with a padded pry bar.
^ Only one hinge should be adjusted at a time. The other tight hinge helps to prevent any drastic door movement (which may result due to the weight of the door) which will result in a complete door refitting for both up/down as well as in/out positions.
^ The amount of movement can be determined by outlining the hinge mounting area on the door prior to adjustment, and measuring the hinge movement relative to this outline after adjustment. A 2-4mm adjustment should be sufficient to return the door to within its nominal operating range.
6. Finally, the door closing effort should be checked to be sure the seal compression has not increased so much that a closing effort concern has been created. If the efforts are unacceptably high, the door may have been moved excessively inward, and should be refitted outward to a location that balances the seal compression for windnoise with closing efforts. It may be necessary to perform another 3X5" Card Test or Chalk Test to verify the final seal compression.
Regards
Dereck
abe_lincoln78
Active LVC Member
oh, I totally have the problem described here. . . but my car is a '93, not a '94.
SCREWED!!!
SCREWED!!!
1996 TC air noise
I have a 96 TC sign. series and it has low miles. I noticed the same problem although it seemed to me that it was coming through the front side windows. I went to Home depot and got some 1/4 inch thick weather stripping and ran it along the top and side panels of the door to come in contact with the OEM stripping. Problem was solved for me. Hope this helps.
I have a 96 TC sign. series and it has low miles. I noticed the same problem although it seemed to me that it was coming through the front side windows. I went to Home depot and got some 1/4 inch thick weather stripping and ran it along the top and side panels of the door to come in contact with the OEM stripping. Problem was solved for me. Hope this helps.