2000 LS stereo wiring. checked tech articles..

[KevinJ]

I was wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram for a 2000 LS with the alpine sound system ( 6 speakers and 2 rear subs)

this tech article seems to be for replacing the head unit only..? I need the wire colors as they are down at the speakers please. I read this earlier:

Yellow – Constant
Red – Accessory
Black – Ground
Orange w/black – Negative Illumination
Orange – Positive Illumination non adjustable
Orange w/white – positive illumination adjustable via dimmer switch
Blue – Power antenna lead (Positive)
Blue w/white – Amplifier turn on lead (Positive)
White – Front Left positive
White w/black – Front left negative
Gray – Front right positive
Gray w/black – Front right negative
Purple – Right rear positive
Purple w/black – Right rear negative
Green – Left rear positive
Green – Left rear negative
Brown – Amplifier Mute



only 4 speakers here. need all door and center panel (6) speaker wire colors please. thanks.

 

[Dacket]

Your door speakers are wired through the main harness. The center console and subs are wired through a separate, smaller harness along with your amp control wires. One for your center speakers and one for your subs. The third harness holds your wires for your steering wheel controls as well as for the CD changer.

 

[Quik LS]

The large 20-pin connector:
Position 5 and 6 = right rear (- white and + gray)
Position 12 and 13 = left rear (- whit/violet and + gray/white)
Position 7 and 8 = right front (- white/red and + gray/red)
Position 14 and 15 = left front (- white/black and + gray/black)

Constant power = position 9 (orange.black)
Switched hot in start = position 3 (gray/orange)
Switched hot in run or ACC = position 10 (yellow/green)
Ground = position 16 (black/green)

The 16-pin connector contains the connections to the steering wheel controls and various data bus signals. The cassette systems with external CD changer have a connector dedicated to the signal cable for the changer.

On audiophile systems, there is an 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)

The trunk connector (on the drivers side) is number C465 and the sub audio uses these pins:
1 = yellow/red: switched hot
3 = shield for low level audio signal
5 = red: constant power from battery junction box fuse F418 (20 amps)
7 = white/red: low level LEFT audio signal
8 = grey/red: low level RIGHT audio signal

 

[KevinJ]

thank you very much. i had requested this information from you a long time ago and recieved it. this particular install is gonna be a little technical. getting a pioneer head unit with GPS and bluetooth integration, bought 2 sets of 5x7 two way (Hertz) speakers and a set of tweeters for the front center because i wont be able to use the center amp(?) and the only size speakers to upgrade for the center console was some tweeters.

but with the tweeters crossover(?) i wont be able to aplify it i believe, anybody know off and how many watts center speaker amp is and any other things i could to besides tweeters for those speakers? and i cannot run amp through tweet with crossover correct? and cant seem to find that size speaker anywhere. and i am running a new head unit with 4 speaker outputs, not 6 and the center speaker is a speaker level input i think because its not a low level input bass. dang im confusing myself.
thanks!

 

[KevinJ]

please give some feedback about my options with the center console speakers when upgrading my deck. please! thanks

 

[Quik LS]

the center console amp drives the two lower speaker in the base of the console and is for DSP - digital signal processing. It add 'space' to the sound by adding a slight delay echo. You can upgrade those speakers 3.5".

most people put 2-way speakers in the four doors - which are driven directly off the head unit. IB it's a 180w head unit.

The two rear subs are driven by their own 85w sub-amp that uses low-level inputs fed from the head unit.

So - if you are doing seperate twetter / mid-range speakers - then you would place a cross-over that can handle the wattage in-line with a door speaker. Place the mid-range in the door and the tweeter up on the a-pillar - both coming off the speaker output. so - headunit to cross-over, cross-over to the two speakers. You have to match the ohms of the cross-over to the original speaker ohm.

 

[1LoudLS]

...but with the tweeters crossover(?) i wont be able to aplify it i believe... i cannot run amp through tweet with crossover correct?...

all tweeter have crossovers, the crossover may be as simple as a small capacitor or it may be a large box with many capacitors(high pass) and coils(low pass). but a tweeter can not be given full range sound, the bass will blow them right away, expecialy a lot of power like out of an amp.

if you have ever taken a cheap aftermarket tweeter apart there is always a small capacitor right next to one of the terminals. there are a few factory systems that dont use any passive crossovers on the tweeters because there is an active crossover inside the amps that remove all the bass before it is sent to the tweeters

 

[KevinJ]

i see! thank you!
i do have a killer amp in the rear, 1000 watts with a ported box pushin 2 12"s. upgraded all four door speakers to 2 way just like quik told me to do about 6 months ago. great quality. about to change the deck to a double din pioneer ( newest one..? ) 1100$ gps and blue tooth stuff. and hopefully run an amp to the 4 door speakers ( and possibly 2 center console speakers down the line)

1. so i can upgrade my center console speakers to 3.5"?
what is a good type to pick? considering ive already got (4) 2 way speakers in the doors. are tweeters a good pick im a little clueless but not at the same time.
2. i am losing my front amp unless i cut into the wires because this deck im gonna get only has 4 speaker outputs. gonna get complicated as well with the wiring ( meaning center console turn on, tapping wires to it...and hoping it works well)
3. what are my best options for the center console speakers wether i run an amp to them in the future or not..?

just would like an opinion. thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated!

 

[TheArchaic1]

If you are going to upgrade your deck, and you have already put in new door speakers; I would suggest putting in an amp for your door speakers and run the center speakers with your front door speakers. If you put in aftermarket speakers, no matter how good they are, if you don't give them adequate power (i.e. just using the decks power you WILL starve them of power and blow them. I have done this before with Infinity speakers in the past, and now always run a four channel amp for my fronts and have them set for mids and highs with my sub picking up the bass end.
As far as choosing speakers to replace the center console speakers, go with a set of mids that is the same brand as your door speakers. In the long run it will give you better sound, and you don't have to worry about impedance levels and ohm matching. It's the easy way to go.

 

[1LoudLS]

the center speakers all ready have an amp for them, it will work with a new headunit, it just has to be wired up correctly.
i wouldn't run the center speakers off of the same channel as the front speakers however, since they are a lot smaller than the front speakers(3.5 vs 6x8) they will not be able to handle as much mid bass as the fronts will (expecialy with how much power they will be seeing) so either they will be receiving too low of a freq. and they will distort or you will have to crank up the crossover too much for them to play crear and then you will be taking to much mid bass out of the front doors and there will be a gap in the freq. between what the sub will play and what the speakers will play
sub freq (80hz-100hz and under)< freq gap(100hz-300hz) < door speaker freq (300hz-400hz and up)

 

[Tru-Blu]

So Loud, are you saying that you shouldn't even hook up the center console speakers (gonna be installing my F90BT today)? I was going to try and use them on the Front Pre-out, but looks like you're saying that they're going to get too much frequency range if I do that, correct?

TRU

 

[1LoudLS]

you could always get the inline passive crossovers that just look like little barrels that plug into your rca's and then your rca's plug into them, that way you could get a higher crossover rate. i dont think that the amp has a built in crossover (since the sub amp doesnt). but i didn't hook them up in mine because they are for effects from the stock DSP, and sending full time sound to them messes up the stereo imaging a bit, so i just hooked the amp up to my escort radar detector, so i can hear it when it goes off if the stereo is turned up