2000lsv8 A/C

JustALs

JustALs

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So like I do each summer I refil the ac with 28oz r134a but this time it leaked right out as i was putting some in slowly,, i read it can be the scroll oring or something but i cant find the correct part online thanks
 
Note that you have probably also lost most or all of your compressor oil. The compressor may already be damaged. Once you find and fix the leak, you need to replace the dryer, and pull a full vacuum on the system before refilling.
 
@joegr correct thanks for the reply...

I was filling it car running then the compressor kicked it and after i heard a whoosh , did not see oil leaks no where tho buy
The ac did not run for like 6 months and its because it leaked out at the valve on the low port but fixed it. Ran fine before



This winter when I replaced my radiator i was kind in a rush and I bent the dryer pipe and I just found a big crack .. the hose is cheap but would it be possible to jb weld it or use an aluminum brazing rod? And even if its higher than the compressor do i still need to get it refil with oil

Would be cool to cheap out on this.. but since the compressor is fine i will probably just buy the hoses and a new dryer and get it filler and re oiled at a shop
 
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You need a new dryer because it was exposed to the air and it is now saturated with moisture. The moisture can't be removed from it.
Yes, the oil comes out with the refrigerant no matter where the leak is. You need to drain the compressor, and then refill it to the correct level.
I wouldn't expect JB weld to be useful for this. If you braze, then you must have nitrogen flowing through the pipe to prevent burning the slight coating of oil in the pipe, as this would clog the TXV later.
Full vacuum for 30 minutes is needed to remove air and boil moisture out of the system.

I note that R-134a has gotten a lot more expensive lately. A non-leaking system will not need any R-134a added, even after ten years.
 
Well I took another look at the a/c hoses today and the place where I think was leaking doesn't leak , it looks like it was sheared but its just a imperfection.

after an hour I finally found the leak and its right under the 3 metal coolant hoses that runs on the passenger side on the body right in front of the head .
its the one wrapped with a insulation wrap of some sort, Its in a very tight spot looks like one would have to pull the engine lol..
thinking how the hell im going to put the new hose in myself. Too expensive to bring the thinng at a shop
 
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JustALs said:
Well I took another look at the a/c hoses today and the place where I think was leaking doesn't leak , it looks like it was sheared but its just a imperfection.

after an hour I finally found the leak and its right under the 3 metal coolant hoses that runs on the passenger side on the body right in front of the head .
its the one wrapped with a insulation wrap of some sort, Its in a very tight spot looks like one would have to pull the engine lol..
thinking how the hell im going to put the new hose in myself. Too expensive to bring the thinng at a shop
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Hi, Taking off the intake is not as hard as you think. Suggest you take 6 pictures of it from the rt and feft side, get a book too, mostly its removing long bolts , 10 or so, disconnect anyrthing still attached to intake. Advise taking more pictures after you remove bolts. Easiest was I found is to remove the hood with the help of a friend. makes seeing everything easy. Get new intake gaskets, cean up intake head ports and intake manifold ports rel clean Use a small wire brush in a electric drill, cover up the head intake ports as not to get filings into the motor. Then using new intake gasketys assemble it after you get the a/c hose problem fixed. Takes about 4 hours to do it 1st time It is not that hard
 
JustALs said:
So like I do each summer I refil the ac with 28oz r134a but this time it leaked right out as i was putting some in slowly,, i read it can be the scroll oring or something but i cant find the correct part online thanks
Click to expand...
Try some Super seal by AC pro, its for 134. repairs metal leaks, seals rubber leaks. Coats is 25.00 thru amazon
 
I had to change that hose a few years ago, you need to sequentially remove the other hoses until that insulated one is more or less in the open. It did look to be impossible to get it out, but it all went pretty well.. I am not sure if I had to disconnect the heater lines that are over that a/c hose, but that is a possibility.
 
BILLBOATS said:
Hi, Taking off the intake is not as hard as you think. Suggest you take 6 pictures of it from the rt and feft side, get a book too, mostly its removing long bolts , 10 or so, disconnect anyrthing still attached to intake. Advise taking more pictures after you remove bolts. Easiest was I found is to remove the hood with the help of a friend. makes seeing everything easy. Get new intake gaskets, cean up intake head ports and intake manifold ports rel clean Use a small wire brush in a electric drill, cover up the head intake ports as not to get filings into the motor. Then using new intake gasketys assemble it after you get the a/c hose problem fixed. Takes about 4 hours to do it 1st time It is not that hard
Click to expand...
I feel like you are not talking about an LS...
 
BILLBOATS said:
Try some Super seal by AC pro, its for 134. repairs metal leaks, seals rubber leaks. Coats is 25.00 thru amazon
Click to expand...
Funny you suggest this because on one of my LSes I used some leak seal on the AC system before taking it to a shop to have it properly filled and its held up for 10 years now of course I thought it would either fail miserably....knowing it would be at best a bandaid I was planning on permanently fixing it but you know what they say if it's not broke don't fix it ...still can't believe how cold the AC blows every summer still...but if you can change the hose I would definitely replace it
 
Yeah its a pretty big leak so some sealing stuff probably wont do much.

So is this possible to do without taking the head off?
@joegr you said remove the intake manifold but is that necessary I don't see why I should remove it.
I tried searching for a diagram of the hoses or a manual for the procedure but did not see any on deneau or google. thx all
 
JustALs said:
Yeah its a pretty big leak so some sealing stuff probably wont do much.

So is this possible to do without taking the head off?
@joegr you said remove the intake manifold but is that necessary I don't see why I should remove it.
I tried searching for a diagram of the hoses or a manual for the procedure but did not see any on deneau or google. thx all
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No, it's not necessary. Just saying that I would do that before I removed the engine. I haven't done it, but the service manual says you can get to that AC connection with the engine in and the intake on.
 
Try buying thru amazon Super seal by ac pro, its for 134a a/c systems, repairs metal leaks, , seals rubber leaks, cost is 25.00 via amazon .com Try this 1st before removing intake manifold
 
JustALs said:
Yeah its a pretty big leak so some sealing stuff probably wont do much.

So is this possible to do without taking the head off?
@joegr you said remove the intake manifold but is that necessary I don't see why I should remove it.
I tried searching for a diagram of the hoses or a manual for the procedure but did not see any on deneau or google. thx all
Click to expand...
Its worth 25.00 to find out, you save all the labor and cost if it works. I wou;ld give it a try before I removed the intake manifold.
 
Please, I implore you. Do not try the stop leak in your AC system. It won't work on the split hose and even if was a pinhole leak, that stuff will plague you in the future. AC condenser and evaporator cores have very thin tubing, and as stated above the TXV or Orifice Tube (depending on your type) are small valves. The compressor has tight tolerances too. You don't want that crap gumming up your system. Once it's in, it's in. Future problems will leave you guessing and may result in much more of a repair nightmare than you have now (imagine having to replace the entire system!). I know it sucks to hear but your best bet w/ AC always is to find the leak(s) and repair/replace the problems so the system is fully sealed again.
 
Please DON'T contaminate your AC system with any stop leak JUNK! There is no way any liquid injected into your AC system will fix a cracked metal part!!

You need to understand once you contaminate the AC system no shop will work on it and it's next to impossible to get that crap out.

Listen to the post above mine. He is saying the same thing. Listen to him!
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Yeah I never even thought about trying stopleak lol.. I need a diagram :p

I dont want to start another thread but now my driver side front blinker dont work only the park lights up i goy multiple new bulbs and same thing i checked the FEM stuff and fuses they all good
I get 11.88v on the harness will forscan rule this one out? Lol my ls is literally tearing apart rn
 
JustALs said:
Yeah I never even thought about trying stopleak lol.. I need a diagram :p

I dont want to start another thread but now my driver side front blinker dont work only the park lights up i goy multiple new bulbs and same thing i checked the FEM stuff and fuses they all good
I get 11.88v on the harness will forscan rule this one out? Lol my ls is literally tearing apart rn
Click to expand...
Does that bulb work with the hazard 4-way flashers running?
 
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