2002 ls v8 ac compressor oil leaking

J

jmeecer

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Changed my oil this morning and noticed a green oil on my oil pan and around the bottom of the ac compressor, so I guess my ac compressor is starting to leak oil. The ac is still working, but I noticed the pass couple of weeks the clutch has been going in and out. I guess since I caught the leak before the compressor blew, I can just change the compressor, dryer and o-rings. I have a vacuum pump and gauges.

Been reading on the forum that others have had good luck with four seasons ac compressors, it that still the case? They are about half the cost from a Ford compressor.
 
jmeecer said:
Changed my oil this morning and noticed a green oil on my oil pan and around the bottom of the ac compressor, so I guess my ac compressor is starting to leak oil. The ac is still working, but I noticed the pass couple of weeks the clutch has been going in and out. I guess since I caught the leak before the compressor blew, I can just change the compressor, dryer and o-rings. I have a vacuum pump and gauges.

Been reading on the forum that others have had good luck with four seasons ac compressors, it that still the case? They are about half the cost from a Ford compressor.
Click to expand...
You can very probably do much better than that. It is very likely that your leak is the same as most everyone else's, the o-ring for the scroll control valve. It's a sub $10 part, and you can change it out with the compressor still on the car. (It's behind the cover held on with two bolts at the back of the compressor.

www.ebay.com

Scroll Compressor Control Valve O-Ring Gasket Seal MS-235G G12-3101 Ford Saturn | eBay

Saturn Vue. ThisMOLDED GREEN HNBR RUBBER O-RING GASKET is found on the ac compressor's REAR CYLINDER HEAD under a 2 bolt steel plate. MANY SEALS FIT MORE THAN ONE COMPRESSOR AND MANY COMPRESSORS HAVE MORE THAN 1 SEAL THAT IS USED.
www.ebay.com
 
joegr said:
You can very probably do much better than that. It is very likely that your leak is the same as most everyone else's, the o-ring for the scroll control valve. It's a sub $10 part, and you can change it out with the compressor still on the car. (It's behind the cover held on with two bolts at the back of the compressor.

www.ebay.com

Scroll Compressor Control Valve O-Ring Gasket Seal MS-235G G12-3101 Ford Saturn | eBay

Saturn Vue. ThisMOLDED GREEN HNBR RUBBER O-RING GASKET is found on the ac compressor's REAR CYLINDER HEAD under a 2 bolt steel plate. MANY SEALS FIT MORE THAN ONE COMPRESSOR AND MANY COMPRESSORS HAVE MORE THAN 1 SEAL THAT IS USED.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
Wonderful, bought 2. I wonder how much compressor oil i have lost?
 
jmeecer said:
Wonderful, bought 2. I wonder how much compressor oil i have lost?
Click to expand...
Probably a pretty good bit since you are now losing refrigerant too. I wish I could give you a good figure, but you will have to guess. Also, be sure to replace the dryer.
 
Local parts stores sell 3 oz cans of oil i can add to the system via the gauges and i can put some oil in the dryer too, have about 4 oz of liquid oil left from an 8 oz bottle here at the house from fixing my daughter's car a few years ago.

So here is my next question, ford or aftermarket dryer? I used a four season dryer on daughter's car, quality seemed decent. I know how some parts need to be factory, just wondering if this would include ac parts. Thanks joe
 
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Ok, replaced the o-ring, that was not fun. Replaced dryer with a Ford unit added 1.5 ounces of PAG 46 oil to the dryer. Pulled a vacuum on the system, no leaks. Tried to add r134a...when in the hell did they change over to SELF SEALING CANS!!! My mastercool can adaptors didn't work and to use the adaptor that puncture the hole in the side of the can (luckily I had one).

Added two cans of PAG oil (front of can says 3 oz of oil, back of can says 1 oz of oil, 1 oz of r134a, and 1 oz of a special cooling agent to enhance cooling (marketing crap)), then added two 12oz cans of r134a.

Was 83 degrees out so, my high side pressure was 175 psi and low side was 45 psi. I think either I am still a little low on r134a or my compresses is a little weak. May recheck pressures in a week or so. So far so good. Thanks Joe, I didnt know about the o-ring on the back of the compressor.
 
jmeecer said:
..when in the hell did they change over to SELF SEALING CANS!!!...
Click to expand...
I think that all cans made after some date in 2018 have to be self sealing. Before then it was a requirement already in California and maybe another state or two.

Anything that is not refrigerant or oil, just reduces the system capacity at best, or clogs the TXV at worst.
Those look to be the correct pressures for 83 out, but you should be about 4 oz low on refrigerant.
 
joegr said:
I think that all cans made after some date in 2018 have to be self sealing. Before then it was a requirement already in California and maybe another state or two.

Anything that is not refrigerant or oil, just reduces the system capacity at best, or clogs the TXV at worst.
Those look to be the correct pressures for 83 out, but you should be about 4 oz low on refrigerant.
Click to expand...
I figured I was about 2 oz low. Added 2 12 oz can, so 24 oz there. And the 2oz from the oil cans, I am assuming the 2 oz of special cool additive may or may not count. If they count that would be 28 oz if they don't count then I am 2 oz low.

I figure since I would have to open another can just to add 2 to 4 oz. I would wait until I got a better can adapter for the self sealing cans. Going to recheck the pressures in a few week. I don't see any leaking oil. I just hope I added enough but not to much. I also added oil directly into the charge hose before I added the first can of r134. So I think I got roughly 4 to 4.5 oz of pag oil back in the system
 
The oil does not count against the refrigerant. It's 28 oz of R-134a and 7 oz (total) of oil. Anyway, I agree that you are probably close enough.
 
Changed my motor oil last week and noticed the compressor is leaking again. I guess the seal I put in was either not put in correctly or just started leaking again. Good thing I bought two of these seals. I am wondering if I should replace the metal plate holding the seal in place? My GOD a never ending battle keeping up with an aging car. Just replaced my starter again, car still will not start...again.
 
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I ordered the Scroll Compressor Control Valve MC924I from Century Air, waiting for it to arrive. In the meantime been trying to find the torque spec for the two bolts holding the metal plate on, can't find a torque spec in the shop manual. Does anybody know the torque spec? I replaced just the seal last August but it started leaking again decided to place all of the components this time. Thanks
 
I just tightened it by feel, and that worked fine. There's no spec for it in the service manual, since they don't expect you to mess with it. I suspect it should be around 10 Nm.
 
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