3 Problems with my LS 2000 V8

[shion]

Hello,
First of all I'm at the point where I'm debating selling my lincoln or keeping it. I've got a LS 2000 with about 140K.

Skill Level - I've about 0 knowledge with fixing cars, an oil change I could probably handle, even managed to find the battery hiding in the trunk (cough after 20 min cough).... I'm not horribly inept with other fixing tasks like dishwashers etc.

Problems


Problem 1) When I first start the car, if I put it in gear and drive at anything more than grandma pace, I will more likely than not hear a high pitch whine coming from the front of the car (likely a fan? Is that the coolant fan?). The whine increases as soon as I touch the gas and decreases if I let my foot off it. I can litterally watch the temperature guage rise if I do anything other than take my foot off the gas (and then it might be slightly creeping up).

Assuming I drive slow, after about 5 min, I can drive regularly and have never had a problem. Also if the problem does occur, I can stop the car, wait 5 min, and the problem is usually gone.

Question: Am I right about it being the fan? That Fan cools the engine somehow... does it cool the coolant, which cools the engine? Is the car really over heating?

What Steps should I tell my mechanic and approx how much cash for each? If the problem is inconsistant, It's a bit hard to verify after each of the steps if the problem is gone... advice?

1) "bleed the coolant system" (I guess you top it up afterwards...
2) Check this Degas bottle thing to see if it is cracked, sounds like it needs to be removed....
3) There is a solenoid valve I read about and a thermostat... are they the same thing? Are they the next step to be replaced?
4) More....

Problem 2) - Transmission. It takes a good 3 or 4 seconds to switch into neutral or reverse. Also in fifth gear at about 80km/h I notice some juttering. I used to drive standard, and it feels sort of like engine braking a bit. Is there a common transmission issue? Recommended fix?

Problem3) Parked the car, went into store, came out, engine won't turn over. Just a little click from the back left section of the engine (if your at the front of the car looking towards the windshield. I figure it's the starter. Mechanic agreed and is fixing starter for 300 bucks (can), apparently part is 199 plus tax. Saw some online for 65 bucks or something.... That seems a lot of difference in price on a part... thoughts? Good place to buy lincoln parts in Canada?

 

[oddball]

Well, I hope you're ready to learn a lot. Car maintenance isn't very complicated, but tracking down root causes can get pretty strange. I strongly recommend doing lots of reading and find someone local that is good with cars and will work with you on this one.

Read the wiki page for Radiator and Internal Combustion Engine Cooling. Lots of detail that you don't necessarily need, but at least the basics. Solenoids are electrical devices - see wikipedia - that are generally used to make contact or move things. Our transmissions have a solenoid pack that commonly has problems. Thermostats are temperature-controlled valves that open as they get hot, permitting coolant to circulate between the motor and the radiator. Thermostats can fail, generally by sticking either open or closed.

The whole "air bleed" thing is not very common. Most cars simply don't need that procedure. The LS does due to the complex routing and placement of the cooling parts. Generally, only a cup or two of coolant is drained during the procedure, so there's not much if any need to top it off.

As to the real cause for (1), I'm at a bit of a loss. Bleeding the coolant is relatively quick and easy, so worth trying. After that, well.....
To tell if the noise is the radiator fan, pop the hood when it's happening. If it's the fan, there will be a huge amount of wind coming from it. Very hard to miss. Otherwise, it's another part, such as the alternator or water pump.

2) Probably the transmission solenoid, but I'm not sure on the 5th gear stuttering. That could be the lockup solenoid malfunctioning. Both of those are best left to a mechanic until you're much more familiar with the vehicle.

3) First, mechanics get a lot of their profit by marking up part prices. That's just part of the game. The problem you described is usually a weak battery. The starter is located where you said - rear passenger side of the engine. A click means the solenoid on the starter fired - closed the contacts and moved the starter pinion - but there wasn't enough juice to spin the motor. If the car starts right up when being jumped, then it's most likely the battery. Batteries *do* wear out, anywhere from 3 to 7 years depending on climate and usage. The other side for the LS is the alternators have a very bad habit of failing. Running with a bad alternator will kill your battery.

 

[shion]

Thanks for the reply Oddball...

For issue 3, I tried jumping the car, and still not a thing. My mechanic "confirmed" that the starter was gone and had to be replaced.

I just called in today and apparently he did bleed the coolant system.... I guess i'll have to see how things go.

For the high pitch wine that corresponds exactly to my pressing the gas, is the coolant pump you sugested located in the front section of the car?

My problem for checking the fan is that I guess I'd need someone to gas the accelerator while I had my head in the front engine part, as soon as I put it in neutral the whine goes down unless gas is applied.

This solenoid fix... typically what kind of level of work are we looking at. I think the ford dealership told my dad years ago that it would be at least 1200 on account of having to get to it... is that really the case?

Really appreciate your responses!

 

[Shredicus]

Most of your issues are more advanced than I am really capable of providing input on, but my word of advice would be to contact Max at 5starford(Ad to the upper right_ and Tasca auto parts and gets quotes from both of them on parts you need before you ever buy anything from your mechanic or dealership. Chances are they will be able to save to a hefty lump of cash on parts.

 

[oddball]

OK, it can also be the starter, but that's rather less common.

The water pump is on the front of the engine and is driven by the belt and is located pretty much top and center. But the noise can also be the alternator, which is also on the front but on the bottom passenger side, or even just intake noise.

Swapping the solenoid is a pretty harrowing ordeal due to one bolt. There are a few threads about it here - search around. Basically it'll take close to an hour to deal with a single bolt. Otherwise it's just dropping the tranny pan, and of course doing a proper fill of this transmission. Not for the first timer, but not particularly hard. It can be done from start to finish in an afternoon.

 

[shion]

Well it seems like replacing the starter has me running again. Yay.

I had the coolant bleed done but my mechanic said he doesn't think there were any bubbles.

Mechanic mentioned that because the car takes time to go from neutral to reverse/drive, he thought it might be the "clutch". He said it might explain the problems at the 80 km/hr (low 5ifth gear) jitters as well. I told him that the solenoid is notorious on this car and the ford dealership said it was likely the solenoid. He said maybe....

Thoughts on the clutch being an issue?

 

[Shredicus]

I think this car has a torque converter not a clutch

 

[lincoln ls_250k]

the whine could be the serpentine belt perhaps? does the whine go away?

 

[chocolat1701]

the solenoid pack is usually the issue. i have the same issue and its the solenoid pack while your add it get the transmission filter and some mercon v for the oil. also how long have you had this car its seems like you just got it? get the solenoid pack from the dealer you can order it from www.teamford.com its only $277 if you go to the dealer locally it will be almost $400.

 

[Shredicus]

the solenoid pack is usually the issue. i have the same issue and its the solenoid pack while your add it get the transmission filter and some mercon v for the oil. also how long have you had this car its seems like you just got it? get the solenoid pack from the dealer you can order it from www.teamford.com its only $277 if you go to the dealer locally it will be almost $400.

Planning on getting my tranny fluid done soon, how much tranny fluid does it take to fill er up? Also is there a preferred tranny filter brand for the LS?

 

[shion]

the whine could be the serpentine belt perhaps? does the whine go away?

If I don't drive hard in the first 2 min of putting it in gear, I never hear the whine. Once it comes, it won't stop until I pull over, stop the car and wait 5 min. If I then drive cautiously for the first little bit... no whine.

Basically once I've been driving the car and it reaches "stable operating temperature" I'm pretty much good to go. While it's first starting up I have to really watch acceleration. The Whine goes exactly in time with my foot pushing the gas pedal.

 

[oddball]

Shred: Tranny holds 12 quarts. Note that it takes some doing to actually get 12 quarts out of it. Just draining the pan will move only 3 to 5 quarts. Don't sweat the filter too much. As long as the screen is intact, they usually don't need to be replaced. If you get a new one, get a screen filter - not a fabric filter.

Shion: I'm leaning towards water pump. Maybe the bearings are going out, and once warm it's OK. But, really, it could be anything on the accessory drive. You'd need to get it whining, then do some careful listening under the hood to try to pinpoint it. Just get a tube and have fun.

 

[Shredicus]

Shred: Tranny holds 12 quarts. Note that it takes some doing to actually get 12 quarts out of it. Just draining the pan will move only 3 to 5 quarts. Don't sweat the filter too much. As long as the screen is intact, they usually don't need to be replaced. If you get a new one, get a screen filter - not a fabric filter.

Thanks Oddball, good info!

I am planning on taking it to a mechanic and having it drained and refilled. As far as I know this vehicle has never had the tranny fluid replace and is at ~87k miles now so I figure it would be nice to do a full drain and swap. Would there still be a certain a mount of fluid left in the transmission even if a mechanic drains it? Also what is the preferred synthetic tranny fluid? Is Amsoil a worthwhile investment (10 quarts for ~110$) or is there some other recommended mercon v? I've also heard about the Ford XL3 friction modifier. 1 4oz. bottle of that would suffice for a tranny fluid change right?

Sorry for all the questions :shifty:

 

[joegr]

Thanks Oddball, good info!

I am planning on taking it to a mechanic and having it drained and refilled. As far as I know this vehicle has never had the tranny fluid replace and is at ~87k miles now so I figure it would be nice to do a full drain and swap. Would there still be a certain a mount of fluid left in the transmission even if a mechanic drains it? Also what is the preferred synthetic tranny fluid? Is Amsoil a worthwhile investment (10 quarts for ~110$) or is there some other recommended mercon v? I've also heard about the Ford XL3 friction modifier. 1 4oz. bottle of that would suffice for a tranny fluid change right?

Sorry for all the questions :shifty:

The OEM (Mercon V) fluid is full synthetic. Non synthetic is not supposed to be used. I agree that it should be changed by 87K miles, but be aware that the service schedule does not call for the fluid to be changed until you hit 150K miles. Note also that the schedule calls for a full fluid exchange, not just a pan drop and partial change.

 

[Shredicus]

The OEM (Mercon V) fluid is full synthetic. Non synthetic is not supposed to be used. I agree that it should be changed by 87K miles, but be aware that the service schedule does not call for the fluid to be changed until you hit 150K miles. Note also that the schedule calls for a full fluid exchange, not just a pan drop and partial change.

Awesome, very good info. What is the best type of Mercon V to use? OEM Motorcraft? Where would be the best place to purchase that?

Edit: Also you had helped me identify a fluid leaking from my LS in a recent thread I made. Figured out that it was brake fluid. Think I may have a pinched brake line. Thanks for helping me identify the problem

 

[oddball]

Any kind of Merc V is fine. I prefer Valvoline for ATF, but there's nothing scientific behind that. Just hit up any parts store. My default is to avoid the cheapest and the most expensive of anything.
Tell the mechanic you want a full fluid exchange (sometimes called a "flush"). They use a particular machine connected to the tranny cooling lines to catch all the old fluid while pumping in new. Of course, if a mechanic does it, then they'll use their house fluid. So don't bother buying anything.