94 conti- no start w/spark after overheat?

[edmach1234]

Hello,
this is my first post (of many hopefully).hope you guys can help. here it goes:

*** 2 weeks after purchasing car for my son at auction,94 conti exec series overheated on beltway.i pulled over after fuel shut me down. the cause was lower radiator hose busted. at tow lot the car engine still turned over,so i had it towed home thinking the no start problem was easy to diagnose.wrong.
*** so i replaced lower hose and refilled coolant
*** i also reset fuel button in trunk
*** i get plenty of spark at plugs
*** i have tried starting fluid in intake,nothing
*** engine cranks fine,crank may be slightly slower
*** the fuel pump buzz sound is there at key on position
stiil no start. pressed fuel rail pressure valve and only dribble of fuel comes out after 10 key ons.


*** i have read many no start threads on many forums and im thinking maybe mass flow sensor, oil pressure switch, or eec relay ? # any help would be greatly appreciated.........#
------ please help me ------!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks,edmach1234

 

[segxr7]

Sounds like a fuel problem.. Most likely either a bad pump, clogged filter, or a bad fuel pressure regulator. The fuel line normally stays pressurized at ~40 psi, so it should spray out of that valve.

Try running a KOEO test and let us know what comes up.

The 88-94 Continentals are not one of Ford's more reliable cars, sorry to say. The 3.8 V6 has a really bad reputation for blowing head gaskets, and overheating it certainly doesn't help. I hope that's not part of the problem you're having..

 

[edmach1234]

update

hey thanks for the link ,

i did the self test koeo and got #11-all ok on dash,so all sensors seem fine. i guess what has threw me off is that i couldnt get it to start with starting fluid. i got plenty of voltage on battery when i try to start it.

im baffled. i will replace fuel filter this week.

**** any way to direct wire fuel pump to stay on? ****(to build up pressure)

**also,if pump is really shot would the pump still activate at key on like it does?
**i also only have 4 gal gas in a 18 gal tank,think i should get a few more gallons?
**what is the chance that the fuel pump weakened greatly at the same time as the overheat on beltway,because car hasnt started one time since?

thanks for a your help...

 

[segxr7]

**** any way to direct wire fuel pump to stay on? ****(to build up pressure)

Yep, fortunately Ford made that easy. Here's how.

**also,if pump is really shot would the pump still activate at key on like it does?

Usually it dies altogether. But it could be running very weakly, or the impeller could have broken. I've encountered both of those.

**i also only have 4 gal gas in a 18 gal tank,think i should get a few more gallons?

That should be plenty, but add some just to make 100% sure that you didn't run out. Maybe the fuel gauge is reading incorrectly.

**what is the chance that the fuel pump weakened greatly at the same time as the overheat on beltway,because car hasnt started one time since?

The chances of an overheat causing any kind of fuel delivery problem is quite slim, but there's definitely something wrong if the pressure at that valve is so low. I have seen much stranger things happen, especially when it comes to older Fords!

Have a helper take a whiff of the exhaust while you're cranking the engine. If it smells strongly of gas, something is probably leaking fuel into the intake and causing it to flood. In this case locate the fuel pressure regulator, which is a kind of UFO-looking thing mounted to the fuel line, with a vacuum hose coming out of the top. Pull off the vacuum hose and smell it. If you smell gas, it's bad. If not, the problem might be a leaking/stuck-open injector.

If you don't smell any gas in the exhaust, that points more to the fuel pump/filter.

 

[edmach1234]

not good update!

*today i tried to direct wire fuel pump with test connector as shown in diagram and got nothing to happen. another post said you can use fuel pump relay to direct wire it ,but where is the pump relay.

*by the way ,battery is getting trickle charged up to 15.6 volts.

*on one post the guy said he was able to get fuel pump to run on "high speed" by jumping some terminals and thats the only time his car started.
i just want to get pump to run continously so i can isolate the pump as culprit (and not the battery,cps sensor,the computer,or some other sensor).
* again i remind you,i have not been able to get the car to start once since overheat.@@@you got idea,ill try it.@@@

please help me in any way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[segxr7]

The "high speed" mode only applies to Contis from ~1998-on, when they got a returnless fuel system. Your 94's pump is just either on or off. It's always running at full-tilt, and excess gas goes back to the tank.

Did you have the key on when you tried to activate it w/ that test connector? It should be.

Does it still buzz when you turn the key? If so, hold the Schraeder valve open and have a helper turn the key. Gas should spray out when the pump comes on. If not, something is diverting (broken pressure regulator)/blocking (kinked line/clogged filter) the fuel flow, or the pump impeller is broken.

If it doesn't buzz, check the reset button in the trunk. I know you mentioned that in your first post, but the most logical explanation is that it tripped from being jostled when it was towed. Also try removing the connector and putting a jumper wire across the 2 terminals, in case the switch is bad.

The relay should be in the underhood relay/fuse box, but I'm not sure exactly which one it is. However if you hear the pump when you turn the key, it's working.

Also, you'll probably find more people who are familiar with your car on Taurus/Sable forums, as it's on the same platform and mechanically very similar. I certainly don't mind helping you out here as much as I can, but you might get more responses from them, since this site is mostly about the Mark VIII/LS.

Good luck!

 

[edmach1234]

still ainnt firin' at all-update!

*** alright, today i was able to direct wire pump at test connector.left it connected for over a minute,no start at all! i am really baffled since some people said they were definitely able to start their cars with direct wiring pump!!!

*** also,pulled a plug out and plug was wet with gas. plugs are getting spark as always,but it could probably be a bigger spark.

*** also,still no codes showing up on self test at all

*** for the first time i am thinking some thing else besides fuel pump or filter. schrader valve sprays about 6 inches in air when pressed down....

*** i was looking for crankshaft sensor wiring today and i cant find it.

--- would it possibly be crankshaft position sensor if i am getting spark?

--- could timing alone not allow car to start at all? i have heard some guys have turned the rotor under cap to correct timing...think i should try this?

thanks to all for any help. im pretty sure it is something small and stupid at this point! please help !

ed