95 Blend Door Actuator Removal

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diselgunner

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OK. I have a good portion of the dash out. Message center removed. I can feel the blend door vibrating while it is clicking and need to get it out so that I can go find one in a scrap yard. Here is my question;

How do I get to it? It appears to me that I may have to remove the dash cowl and a whole lot more of the stuff that is in front of the actuator. Dog gone near down to the firewall. My hope is that someone here can tell me how to get it out and a replacement back in without a complete teardown.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
DO NOT get a salvaged blend door ...get a NEW one from Ford. The part isn't terribly expensive (like $90 I believe) GMAN just posted the easy method to remove the dash, maybe he can post the link to the proper thread page
 
It has been my experience doing the many blend doors, that withe the Gen 1, the problem is not the blend door, but the AC box itself. The gen 1 blend doors are usually good. The bore where the blend door fits into gets rounded, and the noise you're hearing is the blend door shaft turning, trying to get a bite on the bore, but it is not catching. You will be very upset if you get a blend door from a salvage yard and still have the same problem.
 
GMAN said:
It has been my experience doing the many blend doors, that withe the Gen 1, the problem is not the blend door, but the AC box itself. The gen 1 blend doors are usually good. The bore where the blend door fits into gets rounded, and the noise you're hearing is the blend door shaft turning, trying to get a bite on the bore, but it is not catching. You will be very upset if you get a blend door from a salvage yard and still have the same problem.
Click to expand...

Gen I blend door motors do indeed go bad. The internal plastic gears break and the blend door actuator motor will make the clicking sound as described.
The part is discontinued, the only hope is to find a NOS one or to pilfer one from a junkyard. The instructions are more or less the same as a Gen II with the exception being that there is no blend door arm to break or remove..
 
I'm not sure how reliable this is, but I see two new ones at Bakers Putnam Ford in Putnam, CT. 860-928-7614

Part number is F5LY-19E616-AA.
 
I bet you could make a slip union for that shaft from parts from a hobby store if you got creative
 
I could use one myself. During the winter when the car is cold inside, I have the clicking sound but after I get the heat cranked up good and it gets up to about 65 to 70 on the inside, the clicking stops. Never ever hear it during the summer. Never. Winter only. Annoying as hell too.
 
NoLimit95 said:
I could use one myself. During the winter when the car is cold inside, I have the clicking sound but after I get the heat cranked up good and it gets up to about 65 to 70 on the inside, the clicking stops. Never ever hear it during the summer. Never. Winter only. Annoying as hell too.
Click to expand...

If you come to the beach party, I'll replace it for you.
 
Ok, It may be the Actuator or the Blend Door Shaft.

How do I get the actuator off to find out? Do I have to rermove the top of the dash and all of the ducting to get to the heater box or is there a less complicated way to do it?
 
Gen II procedure, but similar:

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/lincolntech/modrepair/blenddoorrepair.html

Don't worry about radio removal. Some people on here can do these in as little as 45 minutes, takes me about 3 hours total taking my time. Basically you have to get the right side of the dash pulled back enough to get to the screws that you can see behind the message center. A few will be easier to remove through the message center opening, a few through the glove box opening. Once you unbolt the motor, it pulls straight out as there is no arm to unhook.
The motor itself can be opened up. More than likely you will see the teeth off of at least one of the internal gears partially stripped.
 
diselgunner said:
Ok, It may be the Actuator or the Blend Door Shaft.

How do I get the actuator off to find out? Do I have to rermove the top of the dash and all of the ducting to get to the heater box or is there a less complicated way to do it?
Click to expand...

I'll call you later and help you out.
 
95 Blend Door Actuator

OK, I have been off line for the last month taking car of my Dad and the computer got zapped just before he went into the hospital.

I have the dash out and the blend door actuaor in my hands. None of the gears appear to be stripped (opened the case) and the blen door shaft is in beautiful condition and works smoothly.

Anybody have any ideas of what I should look at next?

Confused
 
That's what I was afraid of. Check the AC box that the blend door actuator goes into and make sure the tunnel is not overbore.
 
So whats it take to fix the overbore. I just replaced the blend door actuator with a junk yard part and it stopped clicking. after least for an hour or so. i even had heat back but when i got him i think i heard the subtle starting of the clicking again
 
Trippen Out said:
So whats it take to fix the overbore. I just replaced the blend door actuator with a junk yard part and it stopped clicking. after least for an hour or so. i even had heat back but when i got him i think i heard the subtle starting of the clicking again
Click to expand...

Did you open up the new/old actuator to see if the gears had chipped teeth? The good news is that other 1995-96 Ford models with auto climate control used the same part.

I also found this solution on the net which needs to be kept here somewhere as it might be a good one:

Final Solution. As a last resort, before going the junk yard route, our super mechanic, Gary G., bought a "NEW" Blend Door Actuator for a 1997 Mark VIII; Motorcraft Part #YH-1842 (Ford Part #F7LZ-19E616-AD). He opened it up and the gear that everyone loses teeth on is a perfect match for the 1996 actuator. It is also the upgraded "hard black plastic" instead of the softer nylon gear in the original actuator. The new gear that was put in my original actuator is a double gear in 1 piece (small diameter gear on top of a large diameter gear, both 1 piece together).
The small electric motor spins a brass worm gear, that in turn spins the double gear that the teeth were sheared off.
Long story short, if you have a 1993-1996 Mark VIII with a stripped gear, buy a NEW Motorcraft Part #YH-1842 (1997 Mark VIII actuator). Use that new gear in your original actuator and it should work for you also. The rest of the 1997 actuator did not work in my 1996.
Click to expand...
 
no i did not open it up. however the clicking noise as ceased so far. but im still interested in knowing how to fix the over bore problem if that does occure
 
Getting the dash removed is by far the hardest thing that everyone has the most trouble with. Troubleshooting the blend door problem takes mere minutes. If you're fairly adept at getting the dash loose and moved forward, the next thing to determine (on gen 1 models) is if your problem is with the blend door actuator itself, or with the bore that the actuator goes into. With the actuator pulled out, start the car and adjust the temperature to 90. You should see the shaft rotate. If it rotates, then the actuator is working as it should. That means the bore has become rounded from repeated use and the shaft is turning inside the bore. Much like when a bolt gets rounded. The key is to build up some material around the shaft. Build up some edges so that when the shaft rotates, it has something to catch as it rotates. a good material to use is plastic weld. Coat the entire shaft. Once it's cured, then sand away excess material until you have a tight fit. I did this once on a 93 I restored and sold. Never took pics. The next one I buy I will make a tutorial. It is pretty straight forward though.
 
marked8 said:
Did you open up the new/old actuator to see if the gears had chipped teeth? The good news is that other 1995-96 Ford models with auto climate control used the same part.

I also found this solution on the net which needs to be kept here somewhere as it might be a good one:
Final Solution. As a last resort, before going the junk yard route, our super mechanic, Gary G., bought a "NEW" Blend Door Actuator for a 1997 Mark VIII; Motorcraft Part #YH-1842 (Ford Part #F7LZ-19E616-AD). He opened it up and the gear that everyone loses teeth on is a perfect match for the 1996 actuator. It is also the upgraded "hard black plastic" instead of the softer nylon gear in the original actuator. The new gear that was put in my original actuator is a double gear in 1 piece (small diameter gear on top of a large diameter gear, both 1 piece together).
The small electric motor spins a brass worm gear, that in turn spins the double gear that the teeth were sheared off.
Long story short, if you have a 1993-1996 Mark VIII with a stripped gear, buy a NEW Motorcraft Part #YH-1842 (1997 Mark VIII actuator). Use that new gear in your original actuator and it should work for you also. The rest of the 1997 actuator did not work in my 1996.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That's excellent information! So it's possible to fix a first gen actuator by swapping out gears from a new second gen actuator. I hope someone who tries this takes some pics.
 
No. Their application list is wrong. It also lists 97-98 Marks and that's for sure not right.

The first gen blend door motor is long since discontinued and no backstock exists of it. There is one place that supposedly has a 94 motor but I've never heard of them, and I have no idea if a 94 will fit a 96. I assume it will though.

http://www.nospartsltd.com/product-p/f4ly19e616a.htm

If you read the post right above yours, it says you can use the gear out of a second gen actuator to replace the bad one in a first gen. If that's true, then you're in luck, as second gen actuators are available by the hundreds. It's not hard to swap the gear.

For what it's worth, part numbers for blend door actuators are:

93: F3LY-19E616-A
94: F4LY-19E616-A
95-96: F5LY-19E616-AA
97-98: F7LZ-19E616-AD

I don't have Motorcraft numbers for these (YHxxxx), just Ford part numbers.
 
I put a 93 in my 96 it worked perfect. i broke the rule and got it out of a junk yard pick and pull whatever ya wanna call it place.
 
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