A/C stopped working, hmmmmmm, help

T

tireman

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
May 15, 2005
Messages
1,286
Reaction score
52
Location
atlanta
went to the movies a/c working fine, came out and outside temperatures had risen to 90F high humid. A/C just slowly turned hot driving home. car 01V6 178k miles, never had a/c problems before. Checked low port, looks like valve core was leaking but tightened core, holding pressure, checked low side pressure way too high 100+ psi, checked high pressure port, ok, lots of 134a came out when valve core pressed. can't charge the low side with such a high pressure. Cannot hear clutch engage. Ok, guys. any clues? could not check high pressure side pressure, my gauge would not fit correctly.
 
You really should get a full gauge set. Anyway, sounds like the clutch is off, so the low and the high side will be the same pressure, and should be over 100 PSI. I posted all the possible reasons for the PCM to keep the AC off before. I'll assume your engine is okay and narrow it down. 1. The high side pressure is too high or too low. (It doesn't sound like this is the case.) 2. The evaporator temperature is below 32 degrees F. This isn't the case either, but the temperature sensor could be failed.
Other possibilities are bad clutch, clutch air gap needs adjustment, wiring fault, thermal fuse on the side of the compressor, or bad AC clutch relay.
Leaking valve cores aren't as big a problem as you might think. The dust caps have an o-ring seal and usually do a good job of stopping the leak.
 
Interesting, thks joe. So this morning the outside temp drops to 71f, check the a/c fuse = ok, clutch engages = ok, low side pressure = 35psi @2000rpm, hookup a can of 134 and sucks it down like normal. i have robinaire gauges, but the high side connector does not give a good tight fit. everything running like normal, engine = good, everything appears as normal, no codes, nothing. I see the oring inside the port cap. when i remove the cap i was seeing bubbles, i wonder if the cap is pressing on the valve core pin, gonna try some soapy water on the valve next. ****update**** soapy water on valve was negative. Watching the gauge drop into the 20's at higher rpms led me to beieve that it needed more recharge, so a 2nd can of 134a went in. Now its starting to cool after 1500 rpm's but will not cool at idle. So maybe it still needs some more 134a and oil, I hear the compressor pistons working, they may need a shot of oil. Will update.
 
Last edited:
Update a/c needed more 134a. Operating fine at 2000 rpms however, temp rises when idling. checked blockage for air around radiator & condensor, cleaned out old debris. still no a/c at idle.
 
I've seen this with scroll compressors. I've replaced the compressor to fix this, but I have heard claims that only the control valve in the compressor needs to be changed. I haven't personally verified this yet. If the claims are right, then this may be what you need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ford-Sc...ee309cf&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=2&sd=111595676662
Of course, replacement requires recovery, vacuum, and recharge.
 
as it turns out, the hydra fan is not kicking up for the a/c, looks like the actuator is not working, fan speed does not change for a/c, it's been about 75k miles since the last change on the actuator. this would explain the loss of cooling at slower idle speed, but good cooling when driving as air is being forced over thru the condensor. any suggestions on actuator testing?
 
tireman said:
as it turns out, the hydra fan is not kicking up for the a/c, looks like the actuator is not working, fan speed does not change for a/c, it's been about 75k miles since the last change on the actuator. this would explain the loss of cooling at slower idle speed, but good cooling when driving as air is being forced over thru the condensor. any suggestions on actuator testing?
Click to expand...

Just change the actuator!
 
who has good prices on parts these days? 5 star still around?
 
ok, ordered a new one from Palm Coast Ford in Florida for $161 shipped, Geeze overpriced don't you think? I will post the results this weekend when new one installed and old actuator torn apart.
 
Way too hot to work on the car 105F heat index in Atlanta Ga, received the new actuator. The actuator is nothing more than a electric solenoid. Apply voltage and a piston moves in and out controlling the flow of ATF thru the system. The actuator has 3 openings, one at the tip and two going thru the base shaft, they are connected. You can blow air thru the tip and it comes out the side openings. The ATF flow openings are separated by a rubber o-ring. We know thru studies that solenoids are hard to kill. This is similar to the DCCV solenoids. What causes a problem is debris and gunk settling in the solenoid, jambing the piston. ATF is high detergent and should keep the piston clean, however the fan supply hoses are made from rubber which degrades over time, even small metallic bits from the fan pump can cause a mishap. The flow holes thru the actuator are about the diameter of a large needle. So they can easily get clogged. Even bottles of ATF may have residue in them that can clog the actuator. When I get my old one out I will attempt to find the clog.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 124 (members: 0, guests: 124)
Back
Top