AC Compressor Bypass

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MonsterMash

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Am in need of a bypass pulley that will fit my 2003 3.0 Lincoln ls AC compressor. Need to find a cheap fix to keep her on the road And keep some money in pocket for other repairs. Has anyone had success in finding one that fits the 03 V6.& is it possible to put a shorter serpentine on my vehicle to bypass it completely or will it not work due to spacing?
 
What is your issue?
Failed compressor: Unplug the wire to the AC clutch.
Failed AC clutch: Replace clutch or clutch and compressor. You can get an aftermarket compressor and clutch for $193. (Really should replace the dryer too, total of $237 + refrigerant $20, someone to pull vacuum and properly charge $??)
 
I have to say it's the clutch due to the loud noise it is making, my mechanic said it was the bearing at first then I heard a loud squeal come from under the hood followed by this new louder noise and was told it was the compressor getting worse. it makes the sound I'm referring to upon initial start up than subsides for a while only to come back. This all happens even with my ac off. I've called for quotes on ac compressor kit ranging from 360-500. Idk if it's cheaper where you live at but I live in Florida
 
joegr said:
They ship to Florida just as well as to Mississippi.
http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/2003/Lincoln/LS/A-C_Compressor/60-00797_NA.html?xref=26610
It's Chinese, but it's better than nothing.
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Thanks that helps a lot. I found a shop willing to allow me to purchase the parts and bring them in to them. But I'm still curious if there is a way to bypass the AC compressor with a shorter belt? And is there a way to shut the compressor off so it simply runs on the bearing to drive the belt?
 
joegr said:
Well...
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How do I get to this wire and will I need any tools? I have it parked at my job at the moment so that I don't cause any more damage. Thanks for the info this is by far more informative than anyone I've talked to about this problem.
 
The connector is on the side of the compressor, near the front. There is a tab on the side of the connector that you push in to be able to pull the connector apart. Note that if you are hearing noise from it when the climate control is off, your clutch bearing is failing or the clutch air gap needs to be adjusted. Either way, just disconnecting the clutch won't solve either of those.
 
joegr said:
The connector is on the side of the compressor, near the front. There is a tab on the side of the connector that you push in to be able to pull the connector apart. Note that if you are hearing noise from it when the climate control is off, your clutch bearing is failing or the clutch air gap needs to be adjusted. Either way, just disconnecting the clutch won't solve either of those.
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ok thank you. then it's no use pulling it. One last question before I get a loan to repair Everything. are you able to install a new compressor, clutch and all and leave it disconnected. so its still being used as just a pulley?
 
my exact problem is a horrible grinding humming sound with the AC off completely. After about 30 seconds to a minute the sound drastically reduces And its just the grinding bearing noise.
 
MonsterMash said:
...are you able to install a new compressor, clutch and all and leave it disconnected. so its still being used as just a pulley?
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Yes, but it's a waste because of the damage that will be done to the whole system because of moisture contamination. (If there's no refrigerant in there, there will be air in there. Air has moisture in it. Stuff will rust. The new compressor and dryer will be ruined. Not good for the expansion valve, condenser, or evaporator either.)

MonsterMash said:
my exact problem is a horrible grinding humming sound with the AC off completely. After about 30 seconds to a minute the sound drastically reduces And its just the grinding bearing noise.
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That's usually, just an air gap adjustment on the clutch. (In your case, you would add one or more shim washers.)
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1011.htm~gen~ref.htm
 
joegr said:
Yes, but it's a waste because of the damage that will be done to the whole system because of moisture contamination. (If there's no refrigerant in there, there will be air in there. Air has moisture in it. Stuff will rust. The new compressor and dryer will be ruined. Not good for the expansion valve, condenser, or evaporator either.)



That's usually, just an air gap adjustment on the clutch. (In your case, you would add one or more shim washers.)
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1011.htm~gen~ref.htm
Click to expand...

Ok so when I get the new compressor and drier put on it's gonna need to be recharged and vacuumed anyway? Will the shop know to put shim washers in it or must I tell them It needs to be done
 
MonsterMash said:
Ok so when I get the new compressor and drier put on it's gonna need to be recharged and vacuumed anyway? Will the shop know to put shim washers in it or must I tell them It needs to be done
Click to expand...

If you get a new compressor, it will have a new clutch. The new clutch should be set correctly, but I always check before installing it.
 
joegr said:
If you get a new compressor, it will have a new clutch. The new clutch should be set correctly, but I always check before installing it.
Click to expand...

So the fix could be something as simple as adding washers? When I turn my AC compressor on it doesn't get any worse or better than when its off. Just a very bad noise when I first start it up then it subsides.
 
MonsterMash said:
So the fix could be something as simple as adding washers? When I turn my AC compressor on it doesn't get any worse or better than when its off. Just a very bad noise when I first start it up then it subsides.
Click to expand...

Are you sure that the clutch is engaging? (Does the AC cool when you turn it on?) If so, then maybe your problem is the clutch bearing instead.
 
Check fuse 1 under the hood. If it's blown, then either a short in the AC clutch, or a short in the DCCV caused it. If it's not blown, then probably your DCCV is bad.
 
joegr said:
Check fuse 1 under the hood. If it's blown, then either a short in the AC clutch, or a short in the DCCV caused it. If it's not blown, then probably your DCCV is bad.
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a short in the fuse or DCCV could be the cause of my noise That I'm hearing? And ok thanks again you're better than most the people who looked at my car so far!
 
MonsterMash said:
a short in the fuse or DCCV could be the cause of my noise That I'm hearing? And ok thanks again you're better than most the people who looked at my car so far!
Click to expand...

Wow, I didn't say anything like that at all.

There's no such thing as a short in a fuse. A fuse is itself a "short" until it is blown, then it is an "open."

If fuse F1 is blown it will be because:
1. There is a short in the DCCV - fairly common.
or
2. There is a short in the AC clutch - uncommon, but it happens.
or
3. There is a short in the wiring - fairly rare.

If F1 is blown, it would explain your symptoms. If F1 is blown, the climate control goes to full heat because the DCCV valves remain fully open. If F1 is blown, the compressor clutch will never engage, so if your clutch air gap is too small, it will make noise all the time.

If F1 is blown and you replace it, you may be able to engage your compressor clutch and find out if the clutch air gap adjustment is your problem or not. (If it's just the air gap, then the noise should stop when the AC compressor engages. This assumes that you have enough refrigerant for the PCM to allow the clutch to be engaged.)

So, in short, if the fuse is blown and you replace it, it won't solve your noise problem, but it will give us more information on what that problem is and what the minimum you could do to fix it would be.
 
joegr said:
Wow, I didn't say anything like that at all.

There's no such thing as a short in a fuse. A fuse is itself a "short" until it is blown, then it is an "open."

If fuse F1 is blown it will be because:
1. There is a short in the DCCV - fairly common.
or
2. There is a short in the AC clutch - uncommon, but it happens.
or
3. There is a short in the wiring - fairly rare.

If F1 is blown, it would explain your symptoms. If F1 is blown, the climate control goes to full heat because the DCCV valves remain fully open. If F1 is blown, the compressor clutch will never engage, so if your clutch air gap is too small, it will make noise all the time.

If F1 is blown and you replace it, you may be able to engage your compressor clutch and find out if the clutch air gap adjustment is your problem or not. (If it's just the air gap, then the noise should stop when the AC compressor engages. This assumes that you have enough refrigerant for the PCM to allow the clutch to be engaged.)

So, in short, if the fuse is blown and you replace it, it won't solve your noise problem, but it will give us more information on what that problem is and what the minimum you could do to fix it would be.
Click to expand...

Alright well I've taken care of this issue just replaced the compressor and dryer and runs like it used To. Now just confused on my P0430 and P0420 codes being thrown. I don't think my cats are bad but I notice a little lag when driving sometimes. Don't know if it's because of the regular gas my GF Put in about 10 fill ups ago and the O2 sensors are fouled up. Ever had this issue Or any advice to give regarding It?
 
It seems that most of the time that those codes are reported here, they are correct and the cats are damaged. Since they are cheap and you probably need them anyway, you should probably replace all four 02 sensors/monitors. Also, if the coils and plugs are more that a four or five years old or are non-OEM, they should all be replaced. After that, if the codes continue, your cats more than likely are bad.
 
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