Advice on another cheaper Jag part

[grizzlyls]

Ok so I guess my next round of 1000 bucks (wish I was mechanically inclined like some of you) is my A/C leaks. My tranny guys showed me a leak which has alot of green dye, while its not bad (dont ever see it on the ground), I read that if the compressor seizes, it could end up really bad. To wit replace the compressor, and all associated stuff. I found great deal on an OEM comp with clutch and wheel for 343, so thats a given seeing how a quality rebuilt would likely be high side of 250+ anyhow, but the dryer is in play too.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1294085&jsn=__GIX__3__&jsn=__GIX__3__&jsn=__GIX__3__

This is the jag version, same source as the aluminum tstat housing out of germany. Since I got that housing, the quality makes me think I can trust it. Question to you all, is I havnt found a direct connect to say the jag A/C stuff is the same, figure you all would know.

This part is almost 1/3 the cost of the Oem sources and a couple bucks more than a knock off, but I think its the best choice if there is no issue of fit.

 

[joegr]

You may only need a $15 o-ring for your AC compressor leak (and it can be installed with the compressor still on the car), and, of course, the receiver/dryer, oil, refrigerant, vacuum evacuation, and correct filling all must be done.
URO is generally not a well respected brand, but it is probably okay for the dryer, as are several others. The jag part is probably the same as the LS part, but there are plenty around that are specifically for the LS that are in the same price range (or even lower).

 

[grizzlyls]

Thanks Joe - any way for a non mechanic like me to know that? I would think also, that may only impact the labor savings by an hour, so what you think with a 100k, might as well put a new comp in? My concern comes from reading that if the unit fails and sends shavings down the system, way more cost. Rock auto listed a handful of dryer units less than 21$, which would be ok in your opinion?

Side note, I looked up the jag compressor just now and visually its the same, and from oem sources runs 449. Funny how Ford/Lincoln marks our stuff up so much.

 

[joegr]

Clean off the compressor really well, and see if the oil starts coming back from around the metal plate at the back of the compressor that is held on by two small bolts or studs.

 

[grizzlyls]

Ok, second mechanic looked at it in more detail today. He confirmed (without any clues from me) that is leaking between the plates. So I ordered the part (compressor) and a dryer receiver from rock auto. This mechanic does all the work for people at Disney here, and qouted me 200 bucks, so I am likely to use him more now. Since this hasnt failed, just leaking, as I understand it those are the only two things that should be replaced. Joe (or anyone) is there anymore things other than the 2? It was suggested on the parts info that the expansion valve should be changed too, but thats up in the dash and is like six hours more. I am certain since all works right now, just leaks, no contamination has happened.

 

[joegr]

I would not pull the dash apart and replace the expansion value without being very sure that it was leaking or defective.
If the compressor was leaking at the back (diamond shaped) plate, you do not need a new compressor. All you need is a $10 (should be < $1, but it isn't) o-ring seal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scroll-Comp...ash=item51e43a5dc0:g:q0EAAOSwMmBV3h93&vxp=mtr

 

[grizzlyls]

Well I appreciate it Joe. Sadly, at this point I already ordered the stuff. If I was more mechanically inclined I might be able to isolate things more instead of relying on others honesty. At this point, having a new OEM compressor over the 100k mile one installed for under $600 I can almost bear it.