Air vents wont change, fuel door button won't open fuel door, window won't go down.

jullmann14

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I recently bought a 2006 Lincoln Ls and found that the air does not change position.

If i put the air to feet, I feel it out of the head and slightly out of defrost. Similarly, it won't fully come out the defrost so my windshield fogs up and if it's iced up it won't thaw.

What could be causing this?


Also, my fuel door button does not work. I use the release in the trunk. I already checked the fuse and it seems fine as the trunk light still works.

How do I fix that as well?


And lastly, the rear driver window won't roll down without "help". I have to push it down but it will come back up just fine. I was told it could be a pin or something?

Thanks for any and all help and suggestions. I just want my baby in tip top shape and perfect working order:)
 
Thanks!

However, I do not know how to test those for the climate control. I will print out the info from the links you sent me and see if anyone in my family can help. Just a kinda clueless college girl here lol

I took it in to a dealer and was told it'd be $450 plus to replace a blend door to fix the air issue but that just didn't seem right to me. They also didn't give me an answer on the fuel door button and said it was a missing pin in the door window track(or something like that)

Thanks for your input. Now maybe I can get this all done and figured out:)
 
Thanks!

However, I do not know how to test those for the climate control. I will print out the info from the links you sent me and see if anyone in my family can help. Just a kinda clueless college girl here lol

I took it in to a dealer and was told it'd be $450 plus to replace a blend door to fix the air issue but that just didn't seem right to me. They also didn't give me an answer on the fuel door button and said it was a missing pin in the door window track(or something like that)

Thanks for your input. Now maybe I can get this all done and figured out:)

You need a new dealer!!!! The LS doesn't use blend doors, but if it did it would most certainly cost more than $450!!

The self test is easy......

....entered by pressing the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within 2 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.

If all the lights illuminate there is nothing wrong with the control unit.
 
You need a new dealer!!!! The LS doesn't use blend doors, but if it did it would most certainly cost more than $450!!

The self test is easy......


If all the lights illuminate there is nothing wrong with the control unit.



If the electric servos that control how the airflow is directed are bad, to replace, that usually requires an entire dash removal....therfore, likely way more than $450 to do that work.

The test with all lights showing would mean the control unit (module in dash that the AC buttons are connected to?) is good, but there still could be bad servos (correct?)
 
^ DATC module - Dual Automatic Temperature Control

(13 42) INSTALL a new DATC module. (most likely by the OP's description of problem)
 
You need a new dealer!!!! The LS doesn't use blend doors, but if it did it would most certainly cost more than $450!!

....

Not true.
The LS does not use a blend door to control temperature. It does use blend doors to control airflow direction. It could very well be $450 if the door itself is broken and part of the dash has to come out to get to it to replace it.
(Blend door is not really the right name, it should be "air door," but then so many people call things the wrong name, like coil pack when they mean COP.)
 
^ DATC module - Dual Automatic Temperature Control

(13 42) INSTALL a new DATC module. (most likely by the OP's description of problem)

Where did you get that from this thread? That's a very big leap from what I have seen...
 
Where did you get that from this thread? That's a very big leap from what I have seen...

Was just placing my bets on the fact of "Air vents wont change" and "the air does not change position", she'd possibly need to swap out the DATC. I doubt it's actuators for air doors. As I said, just placing my bet on that possibility.

OP would need to run the self-test and post code.



full description of DATC: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...mation&p=2037264334&viewfull=1#post2037264334
 
.... I doubt it's actuators for air doors. ...

I like to know what information you base that doubt on? I've seen few problems with the DATC electronics, but I have seen mechanical issues with the actuators and air doors. What have you seen?
 
Not true.
The LS does not use a blend door to control temperature. It does use blend doors to control airflow direction. It could very well be $450 if the door itself is broken and part of the dash has to come out to get to it to replace it.
(Blend door is not really the right name, it should be "air door," but then so many people call things the wrong name, like coil pack when they mean COP.)

That's what I meant; it's not a traditional blend door system. And "coil packs" drives me crazy!!!!! Same with struts (I don't care what the dealer catalog calls them; they're SHOCKS!!!!).

Would that be the creaking/groaning I sometimes hear from behind the dash? What part of the dash can be removed that inexpensively and give access to doors??
 
...Would that be the creaking/groaning I sometimes hear from behind the dash? What part of the dash can be removed that inexpensively and give access to doors??

Yes.
The cluster and the radio, I think.
 
I couldn't get the self test to work /: Any pointers on how to check for the bad/stuck selonoid, bad switch or wiring problem? And the window is looking like it needs a new regulator.

Thanks again everyone. I just want it in tip top shape. I love it lol
 
I couldn't get the self test to work /: Any pointers on how to check for the bad/stuck selonoid, bad switch or wiring problem? And the window is looking like it needs a new regulator.

Thanks again everyone. I just want it in tip top shape. I love it lol

Do you have a DVM (or DMM, or just a multi-meter) and know how to use it? If so, yes I can give some tips.

On the climate control, you have to time to press and release of the buttons correctly to start the test.
 
Here's hoping you don't have a similar issue that I've had with my TBird retro,

Everything works fine, but the AC Control Head has a short that drains the battery.

After three months, my dealer was able to find new one at the manufacturer (Visteon), but we were lucky.

Visteon, according to my dealer, has more units is storage, but is getting ready to dump them all.

Not a lot of demand for a TBird AC Control Head. (I'm pretty sure the LS uses a similar, but different, AC Control Head

There are rebuilders.
 
Figure I ask here, after doing some searching I see it has been covered in the Mark threads, but I can't find any on the LS. I got in the car on Sunday and all I could see was a spring sticking out where the fuel door button used to be. Apparently it broke off and shot out and I can't even locate the damn button in the car. I checked under the seat, mats, etc. I'm guessing it broke off and must of fallen out when I got out/in the car. Any ideas if this can just be ordered from the dealer and pushed back in? Is it more complex than that?
 
... Any ideas if this can just be ordered from the dealer and pushed back in? Is it more complex than that?

I think that you replace it with the trunk switch as an assembly. As quick search indicates that the assembly is more expensive than you would expect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-2...rg=20140407115239&rk=2&rkt=20&sd=261487540178

I was just helping my son get some parts from a junkyard the other day. They had three LSes. I guess I should have looked at them for parts like that.
 
probable want to keep in mind if you get the whole assembly (both buttons), you will probably want to switch out the trunk button you already have as long as its still good so that your key still works...
 
Thanks guys, I'll check some local junkyards first and if I have to I'll order the part online for $50. Is it just pop off unclip harness, clip in new part, pop in? Typeadeal?
 
20130526_150049_zpsa89694ed.jpg


maybe not...

(my old DVD saftey ground switch)
 
The first gen button assembly looks way diff than the 2nd gen. Not sure if it would work, but I shouldn't have an issue chasing down a gen II assembly. I've seen a few on ebay including the one Joe linked for ~$50.
 

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