Alternator issues - is it possible?

Trippen Out

Trippen Out

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is it possible to kill the alt when reving high on the engine? the other day i pulled out and went WOT right after words my battery light came on and my alt would not out put anymore then 11.8v so i said f-it and went got a new one put that in it worked fine have been driving the car like a normal person. then today i added some stuff to the engine and i was in park i reved it up a few times till the limiter kicked in and then all the sudden the new alt is now only putting out 11.8v as well. am i missing something here or are these things that sensitive to being turned?
 
Something is wrong...11.8 means there isn't any charging...that's what the battery is puttin' out...check connections...if connections are good get that alternator bench tested...if the alternator is good then must be that diode in your fuse box
 
CobraStar_LS8 said:
Something is wrong...11.8 means there isn't any charging...that's what the battery is puttin' out...check connections...if connections are good get that alternator bench tested...if the alternator is good then must be that diode in your fuse box
Click to expand...

i know the alt isnt any good. and no the battery puts out more then 12v. in addition to that i tested it from the alternator prong on the top. which by passed the diode actually. i dont recall a diaode in the fuse box at all.
 
Trippen Out said:
i know the alt isnt any good. and no the battery puts out more then 12v. in addition to that i tested it from the alternator prong on the top. which by passed the diode actually. i dont recall a diaode in the fuse box at all.
Click to expand...

There is a fuse in the fusebox that I believe provides power to the alternator. I believe its a 20amp fuse, test that with a test light
 
Abbens said:
There is a fuse in the fusebox that I believe provides power to the alternator. I believe its a 20amp fuse, test that with a test light
Click to expand...

um. maybe my logic is wrong but i thought the alt was the object actually providing the power. either way ive replaced the alt and all is good for now anyway.
 
The one I just bought for the 95 is also from AZ and so far, it's been doing fine but I haven't been doing any WOT's. In the 94 I had, I went through 3 alternators from O'Reilly's and it was because cheap diodes and brushes are used for most re-man's. The alternator runs off of 4 different sections at 120 degrees each when turning. When you start to see interior lights flickering, then normally one of the sections, if not two have gone bad. Then it's just a matter of time before the other two go bad.

O'Reilly's does sell re-man Motorcraft alternators and they are rebuilt by Motorcraft or with Motorcraft parts from what I was told and they don't use cheap China parts. They cost a little more and they only come with a 1 year warranty. That was what I had bought for the 94 before it burned but it had plenty of WOT's and it never gave me any trouble. Worked good with the system too. Only reason I bought from AZ was because I needed one right then and couldn't wait on O'Reilly's to get one ordered from Motorcraft.
 
I've probably spent literally hours at WOT on both my OEM and Autozone alternators and haven't had a problem (the OEM died on me waiting for a train to cross the road.)
 
Trippen Out said:
if you mean autozone yes. sadly it is. only good thing about them is the life time replacement..
Click to expand...
theres your problrm, hell id buy another one to carry as a spare
Trippen Out said:
um. maybe my logic is wrong but i thought the alt was the object actually providing the power. either way ive replaced the alt and all is good for now anyway.
Click to expand...
it needs some power to energize the stator to create electricity, kinda like the tool guy catch phrase ''gotta spend money to make money''
 
the first time i picked up the alt i went through 5 of em before i got one that didnt whine like a little bitch and it worked good under WOT for a while. then it just died. and then the next one died right away at WOT. i dont know. ive got 2 of em so i just keep swapping em out for the life time warrenty. i know ive gotten my moneys worth out of em. i guess im just gonna drive normal till i can get a rebuilt hi output alt that will handle all the rev i throw to it. and to think i was wanting to put a smaller pully on it too :)
 
I have only replaced my alternator once about 3 years ago with a high output for about $220-it is 220 amps. No problems ever since I did it, and I replaced the working OEM just because I wanted a better one for dependability. I used to carry the OEM in the trunk for security, but now it occupies a space on a shelf in my garage. Since it is out of a 96, it's 130 amps, but I just got one off of a junkyard 93 mark with only 35,000 miles, that one is supposed to be 120 amps.

My question is, how much is an OEM alternator?
 
Trippen Out said:
i know the alt isnt any good. and no the battery puts out more then 12v. in addition to that i tested it from the alternator prong on the top. which by passed the diode actually. i dont recall a diaode in the fuse box at all.
Click to expand...

I have a battery that puts out 14.4 volts, so i have to say you are wrong...It goes in an airplane, but it is still a battery, damn them 7 cell batteries huh.....lol
 
well if the battery is drained alittle it'll put out less...when I was jugglin' my alternator issue last year, my battery was at 11.3...after putting on a good alternator, 220amps from advance auto, it was 13 point something volts...But it turned out to be a melted diode in the fuse box that didn't make the alternator charge and luckily Tommy told me to search the forum on Debi's similar problem and it had helped me with my charging issue...
 
Trippen Out said:
are your partents brother and sister or are you just that high on some chemical.. try reading what you quoted again and find the error of your statement.
Click to expand...

lmao

im high on some chemical, and it made perfect sense to me,
i think his parents are related

lol
 
im voting chemical.. at least thats my normal excuse. ill just say it was due to bad punctuation. maybe i should of put a coma after no. and before THE.
 
It was Chemical, i had to read it about 10 more times before i actually seen the "no the battery" But i tell you one thing, a comma would have made it a lot easier for someone on epo and acid..... It is a rush

Once again, my bad
 
Abbens said:
There is a fuse in the fusebox that I believe provides power to the alternator. I believe its a 20amp fuse, test that with a test light
Click to expand...

CobraStar_LS8 said:
well if the battery is drained alittle it'll put out less...when I was jugglin' my alternator issue last year, my battery was at 11.3...after putting on a good alternator, 220amps from advance auto, it was 13 point something volts...But it turned out to be a melted diode in the fuse box that didn't make the alternator charge and luckily Tommy told me to search the forum on Debi's similar problem and it had helped me with my charging issue...
Click to expand...

Driller knows first hand about that fuse in the black box under the hood ;)

stupid fuse.... thank God the Drillers were there PLUS that guy at NAPA knew a guy down the road WHO knew electrical issues on cars and knew where to look and WAS still at work, even though it was ebbing on 5:00pm, their closing time...is it coincidence that we were there to attend Ray's funeral.... Ray did a lot of work on Tux...I think he wanted to stay there with him a while longer....I even lost my trunk emblem on the way back home...oh yeah, and the alarm wouldn't go off the whole 3 hours....

glad you got it figured out!
 
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