Aluminum Block
- Thread starter klutch
- Start date
Grifter
Well-Known LVC Member
willing to bet it is an explorer block..
i think everything fits, you just need to tap a couple holes IIRC
i think everything fits, you just need to tap a couple holes IIRC
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
any idea how strong it is I need this thing to handle 500HP+ maybe more later on no more than 800HP tho
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
That's the "Mountain Block". Capable of 1500+ horsepower easily...
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
Are they still available brand new?
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
As far as I know, they are.
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
klutch said:
Yep. They are the current Windsor aluminum blocks. Karkraft usually sells them new and used...
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
hopefully my wallet permits getting one before they run out :slam
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
Why don't you just use the Teksid block? It's the best value and when properly prepped, can handle up to 2000HP according to modular engine builders. You can get one used for around $400 if you look around. I almost bought a big bore Teksid on eBay, but lost the bid. The machining itself was worth more than the closing bid of $485. I also ran out of funds, and $1400 for sleeving wasn't in the cards for me.
I was originally going with a 5.0 modular with Terminator heads and 01 Cobra intake, but I lost interest in the modualr all together. I'm back to building 351W's again...
I was originally going with a 5.0 modular with Terminator heads and 01 Cobra intake, but I lost interest in the modualr all together. I'm back to building 351W's again...
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
I was planning on using the teskid block but you recommend the "Mountain Block" I am new to engine building and still learning so what exactly will I need to do to a teskid block to have it ready to handle 500HP+ ?
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
klutch said:
Both blocks are good, but I think they;re favored mostly becvause of their cast webbing and low weight. The Mountain weighs only 78.40 lbs and has a beefier appearance. The Teksid weighs-in at 85.4 lbs.
I just consulted with my 4.6 book and the Teksid will handle 1500HP. Hyland says: "Our recomendation is early block (Teksid) for power levels above 900HP". The book also notes that the Teksid is "The strongest production aluminum case availible".
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
Thanks for the information, since you seem pretty knowledgeable in engine building what will I need done to a block to get it ready? blueprinting? and what else? also when you say 4.6 Book do you mean "How To Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines" and if you do how good a book is it?
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
klutch said:
Yep, that's the one. It's a good book, lots of info. The torque specs and step-by-step info is very useful and would make a good start to help you decide what you want. There's also lots of info on availible parts and a few examples of engine builds with lists of mods and parts.
As for engine prep, send your block to a machine shop. What they should do is inspect for cracks, warping, etc. Then, they clean the block and bake it in an over at 500-600 degrees to burn all the oil and rust off. After that, the block can be honed and bored to manufacturer or customer specifications. Expect to pay anywhere from $300-$1,000+ for machining. Be sure to check around for a reputable shop. And remember, you get what you pay for. To save money, do all of the assembling/ disassembling yourself, but send the block to a qualified machine shop...
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
What exactly is blueprinting? and is it necessary? I am gonna order that book and check out a few places for machining this week wish me luck 
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
Blueprinting is the use of precision tools and measurements to bring an engine close to exact tolerances and specs. Is it 100% required? No. Is it 100% necessary? Yes. If you want your engine to perfrom and last, you want it to be balanced and checked.
One example of blueprinting is degreeing the camshafts. If you don't degree the cams using precision tools and measurements, your cams will be out-of-sync with the crank, therefore the engine will not run up to par. See how long it will last after that...
One example of blueprinting is degreeing the camshafts. If you don't degree the cams using precision tools and measurements, your cams will be out-of-sync with the crank, therefore the engine will not run up to par. See how long it will last after that...
Frogman
Dedicated LVC Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2005
- Messages
- 6,987
- Reaction score
- 1
Wouldn't a Stock Mark VIII Block be able to take 500 HP?
ONEBADMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, easily.
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
the stock block is the "teskid" block the catch is I will be building this engine from other parts so I can still drive the car daily so that means using a different block and I just wanted to get the best since I will have to buy one anyway. btw evillally is there any other books you would recommend since I never built a engine before so I can get off to a good start?
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
If you really want to begin building your own blocks, it's a really fun hobby- but bring your wallet, horsepower is more addictive than methamphetamines (and I should know :gr_devil:
) . Even a beginner can do it if you pay attention to detail and have the right stuff and the right books to help you out.
Start with the book "How to Build and Rebuild Small Block Fords" by Tom Moroe. "Engine Builders Handbook" also by Tom Monroe is also a pretty book. I think he also authored "How to Build Ford Engine's on a Budget" as well. Those are the books that got me interested in building engines by myself, as well as reawakened my interest in small blocks. The books will tell you how to buy and inspect blocks, buy tools and a shopping list for tools, parts, etc. They also have TONS of info on part and casting numbers, etc.
After reading the books, scour eBay and your local flea/ swap market for a good-shap small block. 302 or 351W are the easiest to start with, and they are countless aftermarket and OEM parts to choose from. After a trip to the machine shop and $350 out of your wallet, you're ready to buy heads, internals, and intakes.
That's how I got started. It's by no means a cheap hobby, but it sure is the funnest! My first built 351W cost me out-of-pocket $3,950 and change (including machine work)and made a little over 400HP at the dyno. After months of failing to find a good Mark VII to drop it in, I sold it to my cousin for a small profit and he dropped it in his 1986 Thunderbird and ran 12's. In fact, I used the profit to put a down payment on my 02' Continental.
It may look confusing at first, but once you get the hang of it you go.."ohhhhh, now I get it!". After your irst successful build, you can accomplish anything. Good luck with your new hobby!
Start with the book "How to Build and Rebuild Small Block Fords" by Tom Moroe. "Engine Builders Handbook" also by Tom Monroe is also a pretty book. I think he also authored "How to Build Ford Engine's on a Budget" as well. Those are the books that got me interested in building engines by myself, as well as reawakened my interest in small blocks. The books will tell you how to buy and inspect blocks, buy tools and a shopping list for tools, parts, etc. They also have TONS of info on part and casting numbers, etc.
After reading the books, scour eBay and your local flea/ swap market for a good-shap small block. 302 or 351W are the easiest to start with, and they are countless aftermarket and OEM parts to choose from. After a trip to the machine shop and $350 out of your wallet, you're ready to buy heads, internals, and intakes.
That's how I got started. It's by no means a cheap hobby, but it sure is the funnest! My first built 351W cost me out-of-pocket $3,950 and change (including machine work)and made a little over 400HP at the dyno. After months of failing to find a good Mark VII to drop it in, I sold it to my cousin for a small profit and he dropped it in his 1986 Thunderbird and ran 12's. In fact, I used the profit to put a down payment on my 02' Continental.
It may look confusing at first, but once you get the hang of it you go.."ohhhhh, now I get it!". After your irst successful build, you can accomplish anything. Good luck with your new hobby!
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
Thanks for all the info I will keep everyone updated and post pics as I progress along one other thing is I was talking to a friend of mine and he recommended "Sleeving" the engine now I been researching this the past half hour and cant find out exactly what it is or if I will need it only thing I found it is they cost about $1500 lol
one other thing is I was talking to a friend of mine and he recommended "Sleeving" the engine now I been researching this the past half hour and cant find out exactly what it is or if I will need it only thing I found it is they cost about $1500 lolformerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
klutch said:Thanks for all the info I will keep everyone updated and post pics as I progress along
That's why I scrapped the 5.0 modular plans. $1500 on sleeves? No thanks...
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
So I will need them? or only if I bore it to 5.0?
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
Only if you bore it to 5.0.
Here's a 5.0 modular bored and sleeved:
After boring the cylinders, the walls are VERY thin. I wish I had the better picture on the terminal I'm on since it shows better detail of the thinness of the cylinder walls...
You can see the cylinder wall thickness in this worked 5.4:
Here's a 5.0 modular bored and sleeved:
After boring the cylinders, the walls are VERY thin. I wish I had the better picture on the terminal I'm on since it shows better detail of the thinness of the cylinder walls...
You can see the cylinder wall thickness in this worked 5.4:
klutch
Well-Known LVC Member
So I can supercharge with over 500HP without sleeving? thanks for all the help
formerknown
Dedicated LVC Member
klutch said:
Yes. You can supercharge a 4.6 to well over 500HP on a Teksid block, but you'll want forged internals as insurance if you go that high. You don't want to spend all that money on a blower only to have to rip apart the engine and rebuild it. Allegedly, the stock internals are safe up to 450HP. The stock cast pistons and rods are not as bad as everyone thinks, and they do get a bad rep because of irresponasible idiot Ford who don't know how to properly build, tune, or drive their cars. Contrary to popular beliefs, reving your engine to 7500RPM's on stock rods with thinning oil and constant full throttle is NOT Ford's faut.
One assh0le Marauder owner got all pissed-off at Trilogy Motorsport because his engine was destroyed from severe detonation and abuse. He modified the pulley kit to make over 600HP with bone stock internals (including the stock 10.2:1 copression ration, the idiot). And oh my god! The engine exploded mid-track! What a friggin' surpirse! Oh the humanity! Who did he blame? Trilogy, of course.
Bottom line:
You can safely supercharge a bone stock 4.6 DOHC up to some impressive levels; just as long as you tune wisely and don't detonate. A while back, a New Hampshire race shop shoehorned a 4.6 into a Fox Body Stang with a supercharged and conservatively tuned 4.6 DOHC and backed it with a J-modded 4R70W. They ran 11's all the way on stock internals! Several other motorsport shops replicated the results and I've seen them in several magazines. (I'll post if I find them) All you really need for a fast SC'ed car is a damn good tune and the right build. It's all in the tune!
A 5.0 big bore would work great with a blower or normally aspirated. You'll make plenty of power wither way. But be prepared to spend some coin. My original plan was:
5.0 bore
Terminator heads (with stock cams or FR500 high-rev cams)
High volume oil pump (MUST HAVE)
Forged pistons, 10.1:1 Compression
Forged rods
Cobra crank
I planned on a high-12's N/A Mark VIII, but it's out of my budget. That whole setup will cost some serious coin. You're better off prepping a Teksid, forged low-compression internals, and a Vortech.
Good luck, man!