another detail, 2000 Civic EK Type R

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BAD97LSC

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this belongs to my buddy adam, he took these first few pics, but i just wet sanded and buffed the entire car, i had to sand it because the paint had stains and specs of something all over it, it was very dull and poor looking, i didnt think white could really shine to a noticable difference but wow!! this little car is nasty, its a real 2000 civic type R EK over 400 whp with 14 psi of boost. its a very violent car i wont even ride in it but half the reason is because he is an idiot and i'd rather stay alive!! you can see there is alot of $$$$ tied up into this rice cooker.
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pics i took in my shop after i finished.
hondacivic046.jpg

hondacivic042.jpg
 
Hey, that's not a bad looking Civic! :)

Looks wise, cars seem to have gotten worse and worse. New Civics are fugly, but I'd rock one of those older shapes any time!
 
oh yeah i actually really love the look of that car, i'd drive one too, but not with all that crap in it, a stock one like that with some dark tint and nice wheels i'd drive it.
 
You should get some Zaino Z2 or Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger to set that white off even more. Maybe even Duragloss 105. Do you wetsand every car you do? Do you use a paint depth gauge?
 
You never want to remove clear unless you have too....

After a wash and a claybar you can really get an idea of what the paint will need.... If you can get away with using an orbital buffer it is better than using a rotary ... if the orbital doesn't do it you have to bust out the rotary... and if that doesn't do it wet sanding is a last resort....

On mew paint job wet sanding to remove orange peel is a totally different story.
 
Yeah I know, I'm saying any time wetsanding or compounding is done a paint depth gauge should be used. Always want to be careful and always want to use the lease invasive method.
 
Nice job man! That little car would be the one to laugh at when your at a light then he will SMOKE ya! LOL I HATE those cars LMAO!

Also the neon clock on the wall looks cool!
 
the car was repainted a few years ago single stage white, a paint depth gauge would be the last thing on my mind. i'm repainting the whole car in a few months 2 stage anyway.
the clock is a gift from my wife lol, the face of it was made by her, it has 1 thru 12 and a picture of my old white 97 lsc on it, it says jamies garage!!
 
topher5150 said:
is it me or is there somthing missing from the turbo, on the polished side
Click to expand...

You mean the air filter?

Probably a work in progress although i would never run a car without a filter - especially a turbo car - wouldn't want sh!t getting in there, messing up bearings, damaging fan blades and possibly throwing the turbo out of balance and killing it.
 
I've seen so damn many people running around with open turbos or with just a screen over them.... I would always run a filter.
 
KD00LS said:
True, very expensive but less than a new paint job.
Click to expand...

+1. They start out pretty cheap (about $200) and can really reduce the stress of wondering if you're going to burn through the clear.

Jamie seems to be very good at bringing back a vehicle's finish. But without finding out exactly how much clear you have to work with, wet sanding is pretty risky. If he was aware that the car had not been polished before, and had newer paint work done, there should be plenty of clear.

Jamie, have you tried 3M UK Ultrafina, or Menzerna PO85RD? You can really jewel the paint nicely with those. Do you perform every step with a rotary? Or do you do the final polish with an RO?

I know when I had asked about your process before, you wanted to keep it a secret. That may be to your detriment, as some around here are very knowledgeable when it comes to this, and could even give you some pointers. Paint correction is not magic, nor a mystery, so there is really no reason to hide your process.
 
Just read that the White was SS. No real need for the paint guage, since there is no clear to burn through. I'm not too familiar with SS paints, specifically the thickness you have to work with.
 
this car doesnt have clear on it, its a single stage. i also dont wet sand cars like i stated above unless its a very last resort, this one was a last resort but i did the whole car once in one step and started with 2000 grit so i wasnt worried in the least bit. ive been buffing vehicles for quite some time, but recently have been doing alot more. i dont really have any secrets, i just didnt feel like typing, i normally cut a car with clean cut and a wool pad, then i switch pads to a light cut and hit it with swirl and scratch remover, then switch to a polishing foam pad and hit it again with mguires #7 showroom mirror glaze. pretty much it. in my opinion the hardest color to buff is black, and i have done many black cars, and havent left a swirl yet, not many amatures can say that, i see cars on used lots all the time that have been detailed and they look horrible in the sun, swirl city, they look worse than before. i dont really take peoples pointers, i know what works for me, i know how my work turns out, and if i try something that works for someone else, thats when i get problems, i like to stick to my ways!
 
I know the secrets! :p

1. dry sand with 40 grit. (in a zig-zag fashion)

2. apply power steering fluid to paint with hand towels (the rough ones)

3. polish with steel wool attached to a loose bench grinder at speed approx 50 000 minimum.

4. jamie juice (JJ) to finish and add depth

:D:p:D:p:D:p:D:p:D:p
 
I agree that black is very difficult, since you can see EVERYTHING. I've only done one black vehicle. I detailed my sister's vehicle for a wedding present. Almost 15 hours on just the paint... But I was only using a PC. That particular detail is the reason I now have use of a Makita 9227C for compounding/ polishing. I will do the final polish still with a PC, simply because I can acheive a better finish that way.

I hear you about people being stuck in their ways. I was recently talking to an experienced detailer of 15+ years, and he was a firm believer that Collinite 845 was the end-all, be-all of waxes. It's not by any means, but he is stuck in his ways, and it works for him. He doesn't really reach teh level of a concourse detail though, so maybe none of his clients would want to pay the added cost for a superior product.

Why fix it if it ain't broke, right?

Excellent job on the Civic, BTW. I think I forgot to mention that earlier :D
 
Yeah some people are ill-informed of better stuff out there. My friends grandpa swears by this "5-year treatment." It's not even worth arguing about. I mean lets not knock on 845, for EXTREME cold when you have to wax a car it's the go to wax. Looks pretty good, lasts a lost time, and is a breeze to put on by orbital. Without getting to crazy (doorjambs, other strange places to wax) I feel as if I can wax a normal sized car in 15 minutes with 845 and my PC. It does look great on gray paint though. I don't think you should stop experimenting at Meguiar's though.
 
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