Anyone have this problem with rear brake install?

[Tractionless]

I put the new brake pads and slotted rotors on this weekend but did run into two snags. I just wanted to test the waters here and see where my problem was.

1. The cube tool is worthless. It didn't even fit the grooves in the piston. It seems to be too narrow and doesn't get enough "bite" to turn the piston, ie it slips off. In turn I opened the bleed screw and used a heavy duty pair of wire strippers and turned both pistons in with ease, with no c-clamp at that.

2. On both the stock pads and the Satisfied Pro's from Tirerack there is a small "post" if you will on the backing plate bottom center. It didn't seem to be a problem with the stockers but the "post" on the SP's interferred with the piston to the point where the caliper would not slide down around the pads. I improvised and grinded it off. Has anyone else had this difficulty? It looks as if the post should go into the groove on the piston but how does the piston rotate then as the pads wear?

Nonetheless all it buttoned back up and break in of the pads and rotors is complete. Looks much nicer too as they are silver zinc plated.

 

[press77]

just started a rear brake job and came on line for some help on a 1996 mark. How do you get the pistion to go in so that you can itstall the new brakes. I guess I should have brought the chiltons book? I tried squeezing it with big pliers, but if I understand you correct. It screws in? please help.

 

[94m5]

I use a pair of QUALITY needle nose pliers to push the pistons back in. Open them just to the point that they lock in to the groves in the piston, PUSH and twist clockwise at the same time. Be careful tho, as the pliers can slip out of the grove and close on your fingers. Just keep decent pressure on them and you should be ok.


And the tab is ok on the back of the pads. The pistons don't need to rotate to adjust themselves. Just to reset them.



I am thinking about buying a leslie brake changing kit. It comes with everything you need to push pistons back in on anything made today. I figure it would pay for it's self very quickly.



Mike

 

[bigdog1279]

i also yous needle know pliers on rear calipers

 

[MrScalia]

I used a pair of chanal locks to turn them at the same time my son pushed with a large socket.

the cude tool is a waste of money , I bet someone sells a better one.

 

[PioneerCrazed]

This little kit works like a charm, the hardest part was figuring out how to use it. I borrowed it from a mechanic friend, but I guess sometimes its on sale for 15 bucks. Well worth it IMO...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40732

 

[94m5]

Thats almost exactly what the lisle kit looks like.

 

[1wykdmk8]

This little kit works like a charm, the hardest part was figuring out how to use it. I borrowed it from a mechanic friend, but I guess sometimes its on sale for 15 bucks. Well worth it IMO...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40732

That is the same kit that I have and use. Works great, and is relatively cheap......in comparison to rebuilding the rear calipers if you rip the freakin boot using any other tool.......especially channel locks.....like I have in the past. :Bang

 

[MartySchwartz]

The El-Cheapo cube tool almost fit when I replaced the pads last year. A little grinding made for a perfect fit and saved me the trouble of buying another tool right at that moment.