Anyone used Fuel Pressure Test Port for Wet Kit?

02LincLS

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I really prefer not cutting or tapping anything. Although small, the test port should still be more than ample fuel delivery to the solenoid (and not enough pressure drop to starve any injectors). Is there an adapter to use so that I can hook up my AN fitting from the N2O kit?
 
Feeding a spray system

If you didn't get an adaptor fitting in your kit, please believe me that it's no big deal to cut the crossover hose at the top front of the engine. I actually first got another piece of heavy duty hose at the local parts store. I also clamped both ends of the hose at the injector rails and at the tee fitting.Then I installed a new hose, and put an entirely separate fuel cell, filters and pump in the trunk.:D
KenS from Ben's Place
 
I'm going to change the fuel filter so I may just cut the stainless line and put in this... with a 1/8 npt 4AN adapter. That way I can just cap it later if need be. I can't measure right now, are the stainless fuel lines 1/4 OD?
 
I still recommend that you do tie into the hard fuel line under the car. Just go to a hardware store and buy a brass compression tee for a buck or two. I forget what size but it will be easy to match them once you have a little piece of the fuel line in your hand. Once you got the tee in then just run another hard line, that you can purchase from almost any auto parts store, up and into the drivers side front fenderwell area. Running it this way will keep the line both protected and out of site. Then you do a compression to male pipe adapter and then a female pipe adapter to 1/4" flare and you are good to go. The flare fittings do have a slightly different angle on the flare face when compared to AN fittings but it is nothing to worry about as long as you tighten it fairly well. Overall this approach will cost about $10 or so.

There was another LS owner that did run their fuel line off of that Schrader test port like what you are mentioning. He didn't mention any problems with temporary loss of fuel to the injectors when the nitrous hit. You will probably be ok running your system this way but there is a better and safer way to do it so that proper pressure drop across the injectors is maintained. Allot of people do set their nitrous systems up this way are it works out ok. They usually do encounter some bigger lean spikes when the nitrous hits. Sometimes that can be damaging depending on how lean it gets.
 
Well, over the weekend I ended up using the crossover tube since I had all the parts including some EFI hose and it was most flexible as far as routing over to the intake. I'll check the plugs after a short run and compare them to the other bank but I suspect there will be more than ample pressure. Unless I can see each bank somehow with the XCal.

Tonight I replaced the fuel filter; what a difference! The old one probably weighed 8 oz. That should help ensure the pump gets enough fuel to the engine. I'm not sure about city fuel economy, but highway jumped from a meager 19 to 23.6 (including a stop at sears for a socket) cruising at 70 mph.

Tomorrow night its spark plugs. Then wiring the progressive controller this weekend. Transmission flush is coming very soon as well. This project seems to be taking forever... by the time I get home from work, I only have an hour of daylight (no garage). The past weekend, the weather was sunny and 70 one minute, and 10 minutes later, thunder and lightning with monsoon type rain. Good ole New England.
 
Tach Signal

I would like to use the RPM window switch option on my controller but can't find any LS diagrams that would show me where the tach signal is under the hood. Would this be the same as the crank position sensor signal? The controller is meant to work with distributorless ignitions. Ills, did you use an RPM window feature with your controller?
 
I guess I'll test one of the injector wires tomorrow, should be able to do it that way.
 
I guess I'll test one of the injector wires tomorrow, should be able to do it that way.



Yes I used the progressive controller with RPM limiting. That is the only way to fly with these things. ;) I hooked into one of the injector wires for the tach signal.
 
Ills, I made the first nitrous run tonight and everything felt really smooth (albeit slightly louder). I was able to run the 100 shot and did not have to pull timing from your tune. Most runs were from a rolling start but one was from a stop and traction was no issue (ahhhh RPM window and ramp). If not for the powdered rods, I'd change the fuel pump and give it the 125.

These cars should have put this much power down in stock form but oh well. Its a lot of fun and now I have a bottle opener on my wishlist for those unexpected events. It's a heck of a sleeper.
 
Ills, I made the first nitrous run tonight and everything felt really smooth (albeit slightly louder). I was able to run the 100 shot and did not have to pull timing from your tune. Most runs were from a rolling start but one was from a stop and traction was no issue (ahhhh RPM window and ramp). If not for the powdered rods, I'd change the fuel pump and give it the 125.

These cars should have put this much power down in stock form but oh well. Its a lot of fun and now I have a bottle opener on my wishlist for those unexpected events. It's a heck of a sleeper.



Very nice. No traction issues? Man you must have that shot coming on pretty slow! Hey it is better to plant the power than smoke the tires.

What did your AFR's lay down at after you jetted the nitrous and all that?
 
Can I log A/F with the XCal? I was just going to do a plug inspection. I dont have any $$ left for wideband. Exhaust smells ever so slighly rich which is fine for now. No check engine lights after probably half a bottle.

the shot comes on 50% @ 2500 with a 2 second ramp. will wait to service the transmission before I push more. It's my daily driver so it needs to last.
 
Can I log A/F with the XCal? I was just going to do a plug inspection. I dont have any $$ left for wideband. Exhaust smells ever so slighly rich which is fine for now. No check engine lights after probably half a bottle.

the shot comes on 50% @ 2500 with a 2 second ramp. will wait to service the transmission before I push more. It's my daily driver so it needs to last.

so whats the answer to this question... can you datalog A/F?
 

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