Ats srs dash cluster error..electrical?

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ridin_ls_

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After 700.00 at the auto electrican between labor for looking for my cars constant draw, also I had a remanned alternator put in. Picked the car up from the electricans about 15 minutes after I pulled out my advance trak started turning on and off by itself repeatedly. Then after that problem settled itself , my dash was stating fuel data computer error and I noticed my gauges going wild along with loss of power steering (wheel took a lot my elebow grease to turn). If any1 has had similar problems please give me your input.
 
Your rebuilt alternator is bad or is incorrectly installed. This needs to be fixed before major damage is done to all the car's electronics. If the power steering just went to minimum boost, then it could be related to the alternator problem. If it went to no boost, then you belt has come off, because of bad installation.

It may have seemed that these guys would cost less than going to a good dealer, but they have already cost you more and will continue to do so.
 
Beware of "rebuilt" alternators for the LS. Personally, I've had good luck with Napa units - others have not. The only consistent good reports are Motorcraft units.
 
Noone wanted to touch the car because of the ongoing electrical problems and the guy I brought it to is where all the dealers in Rhode Island send there work. I had just bought this car and just wanted it fixed I was told by a ford mechanic to bring it to where they send out there work. Still no word on the actual problem, I haven't even put 1500 miles on it yet and I've had nothin but electrical problems. I've gone through hell and back with this car only 89k miles. Hoping the engine and transmission stay strong. Thanks guys
 
Just spoke with the auto electrician he states that my abs module s bad and that is the cause of me losing the speedometer , I tried explaining the problem was the alternator but he just one upped when I would say what I thought it was since its under warranty I want him to fix it but if the abs module could cause this id like to know that as well. But I really don't think its the module because I'm gettin error codes for fuel computer. Help me please I've had this car 5 months and haven't been able to drive it really
 
ridin_ls_ said:
Just spoke with the auto electrician he states that my abs module s bad and that is the cause of me losing the speedometer , I tried explaining the problem was the alternator but he just one upped when I would say what I thought it was since its under warranty I want him to fix it but if the abs module could cause this id like to know that as well. But I really don't think its the module because I'm gettin error codes for fuel computer. Help me please I've had this car 5 months and haven't been able to drive it really
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Yes, a bad ABS module would prevent the speedometer from working. Still, it sounds like you have a major CAN bus fault, which would also prevent your speedometer from working (as well as the fuel gauge and just about everything else.)
 
Idk if it would come up with an error code but I ran the odb II on it a couple times and just got bad p2 sensors and other little things. This problem only happens momentarily and a couple minutes later the car is fine.
 
ridin_ls_ said:
In lamens terms what is a CAN bus fault so I can understand fully what you are saying.
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The CAN bus is the communications bus that all the electronic modules use to communicate with each other. (kind of like the internet) For example, the ABS module sends messages to the cluster saying how fast the car is moving. The REM sends messages to the cluster saying how mush gasoline is in the gas tank. The PCM sends messages to the REM saying how hard the fuel pump should be driven. The DATC sends messages to the PCM to tell it to turn the AC compressor on or off. Of course, much more than this flows on the CAN bus. More than one broken or shorted wire will kill the CAN bus, or a very badly failed module could stop the CAN bus.
 
Joegr once again thank you for my help I will contact my mechanic tommoro and go from there . If possible check back in on this post because once again you have been a big help.
 
Also could this be a very expensive fix ? Or is it very possible it could be cheap? Or could this be caused by the remanned alternator I put in
 
ridin_ls_ said:
Also could this be a very expensive fix ? Or is it very possible it could be cheap? Or could this be caused by the remanned alternator I put in
Click to expand...

All of those things are possible, but cheap is the least likely.
 
What's the rest of the story? How did you get the car, end up finding out about the constant draw, to the shop replacing the alternator etc?

Usually the answer is in the story somewhere.
 
Are we talkin in the thousand dollars range? If so can I drive the car without causing further damage ?
 
Long story short bought the car ,battery started dyin. Tested it with the multimeter found a 7.5 volt draw but couldn't find out where it was coming from I pulled every fuse and relay, I replaced the rear fuse box because my regular mechanic said it was that. Problem not solved I went n bought a new battery and it still continued to die. Brought it to the "auto electrcian" he claims to fuses were in the wrong spot and my alternator was cracked. Replaced alt drove away from his garage got 15 min down the road the car started doing weird **** , advancetrak was turning on and off by itself my gauges were fluxuating from 0-40 back to 0. Also my odometer reads (--,---) when this is happening unfrotunately I wen over my 1200 mile warranty from driving the car back n fourth to mechanics and repair places and the dealership. So I'm kind of feeling like I'm f*****. I hope not tho
 
I'm up for any answer suggestion anyone has so feel free to throw anything out there. I buried every single penny I saved from when I was younger to finally get a decent car and it turns out its not so decent.
 
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