Battery Light on but "Voltage OK" reading from computer?

67Continental

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I replaced my battery and alternator last month with a 130 amp alternator - today I am driving down the freeway and the battery light comes on - I am down just outside of boston, 400 miles from home, so i don't have a voltmeter - what could be the problem? I installed the alternator myself, but connections SEEM to be ok, at first glance. My battery connectors at the terminal don't look so hot - maybe I should replace those? I don't know much about American part shops, where could I go to get new terminals?
 
Terminals???before buying connectors try brushin off with a lil wire brush...sometimes things like that can trigger a light,but if it all frayed n crap...then it time to go new

...Now, you Can Go To Any Auto Parts Store,like NAPA,AUTO ZONE,AID AUTO STORE...if Your Talking About The Positive N Neg Cables Connectors That Connect To The Battery Posts...you Can Get Them There. I'm Thinkin Under $15.00 For Both...and im sure they come with the round thingy's that actually connect from the actual wire to the battery,but keep in mind if it's sold seperatly..make sure you put the round thingy's nice n tight and try not to leave too much wire exposed...but if you find some that already have it then your good just install
 
to get the best connectors go to an audio shop and by the heavy brass connectors. try best buy or circuit city and try there. the cheap ones that just bolt on will do in a pinch but you should try and find the ones that wil slide on and then have a nut that screws on the cable making a water tight seal. saw them on two guys garage program a while back and trying to get some for or 3 marks. jd
 
If voltage is ok, I would say "diode trio", or "rectifier". If 1 of the diodes fails, the light will come on.
 
i changed the 2 connectors with bolt ons (all i could find in this area so far) - the positive cale was full of dust - i am worried. i am getting 12 volts with the car off on the battery, and only 11.93 volts with the car on - this makes me think the alternator is not charging. the alternator is less than 1 month old.
 
it really sucks being 300 miles from home when this happens - i am going to call partsamerica.com where i got the alternator, in the morning and see if they can ship a replacement to a local advance auto parts - and then see if i have the tools to replace it.
 
since the battery is not drained - and i have been driving around - and it reads 11.9 when the car is running - is it possible my belt is loose? if it is, what should i do to tighten it?
 
67Continental said:
since the battery is not drained - and i have been driving around - and it reads 11.9 when the car is running - is it possible my belt is loose? if it is, what should i do to tighten it?
no way to tighten it,it is on a self adjusting tensioner,plus i dont think it is slipping,your water pump and power steering would be acting up too,

i am leaning towards a problem with you new alternator.

good luck
 
could be a junk alt like the ones people get from auto zone, I will only get alts from ford or napa
 
MarkOfDeath said:
could be a junk alt like the ones people get from auto zone, I will only get alts from ford or napa


i bought it from partsamerica.com - another member hsa the same alt, no problems so far...
 
You don't need to call them, just go to the local advance auto. They should exchange it. I would check the small connector on the alt, if the alternator cannot sense that there is a load, it won't charge.
 
check it how? as in, see if it was connected? it was.

i should be getting a replacement tomorrow.
 
See if you have 12volts showing on it. Just because its connected, doesn't mean you have voltage there. See if advance can test the alt. that is installed now. It might not be the problem. I think you can buy the small connector as a pigtail.
I know a local buddy, who did a 3g conversion on his mustang. Damn thing stopped charging. After weeks of banging his head against the wall, we finally figured it out. After I worked with him on it and bent that wire in a certain direction the light went out. Alternator started charging. Cut and spliced a section of wire in and all was good.
 
yes, I do have 12 volts showing on it - i tested it today. Unfortunately, the alternator has already been returned to advanced so there can be no further testing. however, if this does happen again - if the next alternator dies as well - you can bet I will start replacing wires, cables and connectors.
 
Ok, then you prolly got a rebuild with a cheap voltage regulator. I've read alot of stories on this and other MarkVIII sites, of alternator failing contantly. ONce a 96 MarkVIII alternator from ford was installed, no more problems. Also, you might want to check the cables. IF they have a lot of corrosion on the battery side, get a new set.
 
maybe, but another board member has the exact same alternator - he reccomended it to me - and he has no problems. it's not actually a mark viii alternator, it's for a 2k conti. so i am not going to say that it's a bad brand yet - i probably just got a bad alternator. i had the rebuilt alternator in my volvo fail in a 3 hour period once - i just got a lemon. replaced it with the same brand and no future problems. it happens.

the positive cable had a lot of corrosion which i noticed when i replaced the terminal connectors. i will replace that cable when i am back at my home.
 
Sounds to me like it might not be a bad alternator, but the pulley may be too large. Try hooking up a multimeter to it and rev the engine, if the voltage goes up when you rev it, you just need a smaller pulley. And I don't think it does much use when you take it to advance auto and have them test it, their machine only measures amperage, not voltage. Think of amperage like your amount of gasoline, and your voltage like your fuel pump. All the gasoline in the world is useless if your fuel pump can't pump it at the sufficient rate. Thus, you could have a 200 amp alternator and it might not be putting out the correct voltage. I've been having some alternator problems with my truck and have learned a hell of a lot about them. I ordered a 200 amp alternator, put it in and it was only charging at like 11.5 volts at idle with all accessories on, when I reved it, it shot up to 14.5 so the company sent me a new pulley (smaller) which I have yet to put on so we'll see how it goes. And while you're replacing your cables, I'd go with at least a 4 gauge wire from your alternator to your battery.

P.S. I would not rely on a lot of the things the computer says, it's said a lot of things to me like "low washer fluid" when it was full, and "low engine coolant" when it was full also.... and in my truck, there's a volt meter on the dash, and it says only about 12 volts when I check it with a multimeter and it says 14 or 13.9 or so.
 
i replaced the alternator - the old one's voltage did not change whatsoever when i revved the engine, it only changed under load, so I don't think it was a pully problem. I think the alternator could only put out enough power to run the engine, not enough to charge the battery, which is why i was showing 11.9 under normal load. very strange for such a new alternator.
 

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