Bench testing DCCV

[Torx]

came across a pinout for the wire harness going to it, looks like 12v in the center and switched grounds on the two outside terminals? Is this correct?
If so, im curious to test mine while its still on the car to see if its the dccv or the wiring because i put that new motorcraft yg in it back in 2016 and it didnt fix the nonstop hellacious heat coming out.
years ago i do remember a dtc from the CCM giving a dccv error, i'll have to redo that scan again since its been some years..

I'm back dabbling with the ac, so this is why im revisiting this dccv heat problem... and want this heat fixed because it pushes heat through the vents even in the summer time with the climate controls OFF. I do love it in the winter, but summer and spring fall its nasty..

I just have a hard time believing a new motorcraft dccv came out the box defective, so i'd like to "bench test it" while on the car just to see if it does SOMETHiNG.. I just remember it being a nightmare to put in, hands and arms all scratched up and bleeding from the tight fit. Would be nice to just put a toggle switch on the thing to switch closed for summer, and open for winter! That's an idea i could get behind if i have wire gremlins.

EDIT: have been reading about the CCM having burnt traces from a bad dccv causing a short.. does anyone have pics of this? im proficient with soldering and small smd repairs so i could have a look..

 

[joegr]

<Rant>
Burn traces cause an "open," not a "short." Most electrical problems are not "shorts," but it seems everyone wants to call them that. "Short circuit" does have a specific meaning.
</Rant>

Start here for your continuous heat problem: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

 

[Torx]

Thanks joe again,
so i got to this part, and couldnt figure out if it was asking to probe from the dccv connector to the back of the climate module in the car, or the 26pin connector, or probe the points with the connector attached to the module.
I only tested the points from the dccv connector and the back of the module i followed the instructions to the T and got 1 ohm.. So i'm confused if i was supposed to test the points on the harness in the car, or with the harness connected..

I also opened the climate module, and inspected the pcb for any visual burns i saw nothing, it was clean as a whistle on both boards.
I was trying to figure out where exactly the walkthrough was taking me or leading me to, either a bad climate module, dccv, blend doors, or wiring issue..
these were the dtc codes it gave me, 2796, 2799, 1242, 2426, 2797
I cycled through the vent output button, and kept getting hot air at my feet, hot air out the rear center console vents, and mixed cold/hot through the driver side.. passenger side and dash vents stayed cool despite cycling through..

 

[Torx]

i really wanna put a hvac heater valve somewhere on a coolant line and just switch it before winter and before summer.
where could i put a ball valve to stop flow to the dccv? im tired of dealing with this mess.

 

[clubairth]

Your module is damaged because the DCCV was not replaced in time. I would install a new Motorcraft DCCV and send you module off for repair. Consider having protection added to the module when you get the repair done.

The odds of a wiring problem are very small and you have a dead common problem with all the symptoms?
.
.
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[joegr]

i really wanna put a hvac heater valve somewhere on a coolant line and just switch it before winter and before summer.
where could i put a ball valve to stop flow to the dccv? im tired of dealing with this mess.

If you do, you may be back here complaining about a clogged/leaking heater core by next winter, or maybe complaining about engine cooling problems even sooner. The heater cores need to be flushed with fresh coolant at the end of every drive, and those "heater" coolant lines also play a role in engine coolant circulation.