Best type of gear wrench for Upper Control Arms

[91 LSC SE]

Hi Everyone,

I took a look today at the factory access hole in the inner fender that will grant access to the nut with an extension and a swivel joint. I also tried a regular 18mm open end wrench.

I'm also not opposed to breaking the flags on the bolts, but it looks like you still have to remove the shock to hammer on the 15mm socket for the bolt.

So I looked into the gear wrench that I found many on here talk about. They even listed links, but with the thread from 2011, they no longer worked. I found many different "gear" types and hope that those that have done this previously will provide their thoughts on which would work best. long, stubby, S or C shaped etc. See below.

 

[91 LSC SE]

No opinions?
I would think the first is the best (C shape), I would think this would fit around the master cylinder and give the most back and forth movement when ratcheting

 

[chris2523]

well, i have only ever used the straight style.
and it worked well enough.
not sure if another style would better or not honestly.

 

[Lownslowlsc]

I've only used #2. Got the job done.

 

[Scallywag]

1 straight 18mm ratchet wrench & another wrench close to the same size.

Put the ratchet wrench on the rear drivers side bolt & hook up the closed end of another wrench to the open end sticking out. The wrench you hooked up to the ratchet wrench gives leverage and acts as kind of breaker bar



As for the air bag & 15mm bolt, you don't really need to remove the strut entirely as much as you just need to move it out of the way to slide the bolt out. Of course this will consist of you bleeding the air bag by removing a clip on the solenoid valve and giving it a twist to release the air. Once the air is released you can press down on the bag to swing it out of the way and continue on your work.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Thanks Scallywag. Are you saying the bolts won't come out unless I remove the shock bolts to move the shock/airbag out of the way?

 

[91 LSC SE]

I had to remove the 3 bolts at the top of the shock and push the shock down far enough so the bolt closest to the front could get past the air bag solenoid.
I used a straight 18mm ratchet and think the second one pictured above would work a bit better. I also used access hole to remove, once loose this was pretty easy and only took a minute or so to get the nut off.

The ball joint rubber grease cover comes down much further than that of the original. and sits on the spindle/knuckle where the UCA bolts to the spindle. I'm a bit concerned that it will rub and eventually wear out. I also noticed what looks like some very tiny cracks and wanted your opinions. They are AC Delco Pro grade. Yes it is filled with grease.

Also the new bolt is hexagon vs. the square original and doesn't lock into the spindle. I would have liked to use the old bolt with the new nut supplied. Would there be any issue with that?

Please give me your opinions on the blue grease cover. is this how yours look? I tried to push it up but it wouldn't stay. I almost think it wasn't manufactured properly, but maybe it is made tougher?
I attached the pic of the other arm not installed - they both looked the same when I received them.

 

[Scallywag]

Thanks Scallywag. Are you saying the bolts won't come out unless I remove the shock bolts to move the shock/airbag out of the way?

No, not necessarily as some owners have managed to extract the bolts with the struts inplace. I think I could've as well but I didn't want to scrape the bag with the flag bolt so I just ended up moving the strut aside which, as you experienced, wasn't a big deal at all.

There is no problem using the OEM bolt with new nut. I've bought TRW, Moog, Dorman & Mevotech UCAs for my various Marks but continue to use the square bolt because the hexs (in my experience)come with a lip/flange that wont allow the bolt to sit flush with the knuckle. Of course, we want everything to be buttoned up nice & tight so the square bolt wins by default

In my experience, the UCA bushing always looks a little awkward in the end because it has to be forced up to expose the groove on the ball joint stem to allow the bolt to slide on home. After pumping the bushing with grease it would attempt to get form again but never have I had a UCA bushing go back to looking plump. One time I did manage to leave the bushings plump but ended up getting grease splattered to the upper wheel wells. This is most likely because I left the grease valves in place and everytime the UCA would do its job it'd squirt out grease from the valve.

So I just leave the bushings the best I can get them to look and haven't had issues just yet.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Thanks Scallywag!

I went to Brafasco today to buy new locking nuts. I didn't like the way the new nut with washer built in was pushing up the ball joint grease seal. This bolt and washer came with the UCA. The blue cover/seal was sitting on the edge of the washer, built into the nut. Not what I call professional grade, even if the manufacturer does list the part as Pro grade.

They said they had the nylon locking but were out of stock and recommended a full steel locking nut that they said was re-usable. I said it was for a ball joint bolt and they assured me it was fine

Anyone every here of such a bolt? The said because the end was bevelled it was hard to install and remove. See pic

 

[91 LSC SE]

Has no one heard of a full steel locking nut?

I want to be sure I can use this type instead of the nylon locking nut. If these are available and can be reused, why wouldn't the manufacturer send them with the Pro grade arms?

 

[91 LSC SE]

In my experience, the UCA bushing always looks a little awkward in the end because it has to be forced up to expose the groove on the ball joint stem to allow the bolt to slide on home. After pumping the bushing with grease it would attempt to get form again but never have I had a UCA bushing go back to looking plump. One time I did manage to leave the bushings plump but ended up getting grease splattered to the upper wheel wells. This is most likely because I left the grease valves in place and everytime the UCA would do its job it'd squirt out grease from the valve.

So I just leave the bushings the best I can get them to look and haven't had issues just yet.

I didn't like the way it looked so creased and didn't want it riding on edge of the washer nut, so I took it out of spindle filled it with grease and used the original bolt (square head) and the all steel locking nut I bought. I looked at the nut that came with the UCA and it too was all steel, no nylon lock at the end as the original.

So if you take your time and fill it with grease first, it will go in much better and look as it was meant to.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Today I finished the LCA and UCA on the pass. side.

What is with the air intake tube that connects at the motor (the plenum?) Gezz, getting this and the round part at the air box was worse that getting off the LCA or UCA.

Is there a a special way to get this off and back on? Off at the filter box wasn't too tough and even at the motor not too tough, but getting it back on at the motor was me in the engine compartment pulling like nobody's business and it would not go back on, with pulling or pushing from either side.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Figured it out, just needed a bit of "finessing". It was a tad cool and with 3+ hours outside changing up and lower in 41 degrees Fahrenheit in the driveway, I was't able to get the intake tube on very easily. Next day it was pretty easy.