Blown Sub in back? Buzzing Noise!

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Marcus101

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Well, I've finally isolated the buzzing noise in my car to be the radio or subwoofer because whenever I turn off the radio the noise goes away and when I turn it back on after while when I turn the volume up and the bass kicks in the sound comes back.

My question is, is this a blown subwoofer that needs to be replaced?

The sound system along with the speakers and subwoofer are factory GEN II 05 LS V8 Sport.

Is it difficult to change the subwoofer for this vehicle? Ease of access, removal, installation, etc.
 
joegr said:
Probably the foam has rotted out on both subs. Also, if the 05 had speaker grills back there, the plastic may have broken and they may be rattling.

It's a little bit of a pain because you have to remove the rear shelf trim.
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

The subs are 2-ohm, which is a bit uncommon. There are a few aftermarket 2-ohm speakers, and the factory subs are still available.
Click to expand...
God, it's definitely a pain to even get at the subs 0_o I'll live with it for now until I do a complete sound system overhaul in the summer. Thanks Joe.
 
pop the carpet cover off from the botton and either unplug the amp or the subs to see if the noise goes away, takes about 5 mins.
 
Mine did this a few years back, unplugged the sub and noise stops. Only makes noise with engine running. Noise varies with speed of engine. Sounded like either ignition or alternator whine. That reminds me. If it is alternator-caused, I should retry the amp since I replaced the alternator last year!
 
I just had to replace my two subs due to the rotted out foam surrounds that Joe has described. The failed foam was the cause of my "buzzing" as well.

If you have the THX system, you can ignore most of what the manual tells you about removing the parcel shelf, it's not necessary. Just remove metal speaker grilles by slightly pushing on the front of them to release the retaining tabs from the parcel shelf. At this point you can access and remove the 4 screws holding the speaker in.
With this method, you may not need to remove the trim panel in the trunk, but I had already removed it at that point and it did make it easy to access and disconnect the wiring.
 
Last edited:
Marcus101 said:
Well, I've finally isolated the buzzing noise in my car to be the radio or subwoofer because whenever I turn off the radio the noise goes away and when I turn it back on after while when I turn the volume up and the bass kicks in the sound comes back.
My question is, is this a blown subwoofer that needs to be replaced?
The sound system along with the speakers and subwoofer are factory GEN II 05 LS V8 Sport.
Is it difficult to change the subwoofer for this vehicle? Ease of access, removal, installation, etc.
Click to expand...

I'm a little late to the party here but here's my experience with this issue.

It sounds like your issue may be different than mine, but if it is the same, and the same as below, then consider your DCCV as being a possible culprit here.

milehighmikey said:
Mine did this a few years back, unplugged the sub and noise stops. Only makes noise with engine running. Noise varies with speed of engine. Sounded like either ignition or alternator whine. That reminds me. If it is alternator-caused, I should retry the amp since I replaced the alternator last year!
Click to expand...

I have had the DCCV effect both the amp and the parking brake, last time this happened both issues went away once a new DCCV was installed.

Just my .02
 
I can 100% vouch for not removing the rear seat to get at these speakers. I have an 05 with THX and all you be to do is push back on the front of the metal speaker grill to remove them, then the 4 bolts that hold the speakers in are readily accessible.

In fact, I'm going to go out and replace one right now.
 
Done. All you need is a 6mm socket and a short extension. In my case I used a 6mm nut driver and a 1/4 socket. 10 minutes later, you're done
 
If it is an electrical buzzing, then try re-grounding the amp on the rear deck. Just run another wire and see if that works. Dealer did that for me to fix this same problem on my LS.
 
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