Brake Fluid Flush and Bleeding Brakes on 97 MK8

  • Thread starter Deleted member 20330
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Regarding a 1997 Mark VIII base model, what is the proper procedure for completely replacing the old brake fluid and bleeding the brakes ?

I've read a few articles, but nearly every one has a different "you must do this or damage will occur" statement.

And in each article, there's always an authority that says something contradictory.

Some say the ignition must be in the ON position, others say that isn't necessary.

Some say you need a $400+ tool to cycle the ABS system, others say just drive, stomp on the brakes and replace the brake fluid a second time. Brake fluid isn't cheap.

Some say you must pressurize the master cylinder with a special kit or tool, others say bleed each wheel and that's it.

To make the process a bit easier, I'm using SpeedBleeders.

The most detailed instructions I've found are:

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.or...hp?3231-How-to-Bleed-Brakes&p=27383#post27383

Since this car has traction control and ABS, does that factor into the process ?

I've read that if you don't bleed the brakes twice, old brake fluid will still be in the ABS valves.

There seems to be differing opinions.
 
I simply bleed them manually with a simple one man bleeder kit until clean brake fluid is discharged starting from the wheel furthest away from the the master cylinder; RR, LR, RF then LF. Check the reservoir frequently and keep it near full.
 
I'd do what Driller said but I have the wife pump the brakes for me.:)
 
Driller and 97 Octane,

That's easy enough.

Would doing it that way get the old brake fluid out of the ABS ?
 
The only time I've ever seen it mentioned that you 'need' the ABS interface tool to trigger the system is to attempt to purge air out of it when the system has run dry. Otherwise it's unnecessary. I really would not be fretting about the small amount of fluid that might possibly not be bled out of the ABS just doing the brakes the classic way.

I've seen it done the redneck way where the system is triggered by lifting up one corner of the car while it's on to fool the computer into thinking it's experiencing a massive slip condition and cycling the system.
 
I've been bleeding brakes on ABS equipped Fords/Lincolns for years and never had any issues ignoring the fluid in the ABS.
 
Thanks everyone.

Just want to learn how to do it right the first time.
 

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