Brake Rotor Removal

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I'm replacing most wear parts in the front wheel wells on a Gen2.

I've got the the calipers off, but I'm having difficulty removing the rotors.

I've read instructions that mention using a philips screwdriver to remove a single screw holding the rotor on.

Is there screw to remove ?

I've used SuperTech lubricant, but to no avail.

Is this a matter of the rotor being rusted on and having to hammer it off with force ?
 
Denna said:
I'm replacing most wear parts in the front wheel wells on a Gen2.

I've got the the calipers off, but I'm having difficulty removing the rotors.

I've read instructions that mention using a philips screwdriver to remove a single screw holding the rotor on.

Is there screw to remove ?

I've used SuperTech lubricant, but to no avail.

Is this a matter of the rotor being rusted on and having to hammer it off with force ?
Click to expand...
If there was a screw holding it on it would be right in middle of wheel studs. I don't think MK's have them. Good thing about new rotors is you can get tough removing old ones. HAMMER.
 
Right on the Mark said:
If there was a screw holding it on it would be right in middle of wheel studs. I don't think MK's have them. Good thing about new rotors is you can get tough removing old ones. HAMMER.
Click to expand...

Mine had original rotors on it with the screw, these rotors were horrible i replaced with drilled and slotted rotors from star auto parts not some cheap a$$ vatozone crap. And hawk pads. And yes a BFH will do,hit it, spin, hit, spin, hit.
 
1sik32valve said:
Mine had original rotors on it with the screw, these rotors were horrible i replaced with drilled and slotted rotors from star auto parts not some cheap a$$ vatozone crap. And hawk pads. And yes a BFH will do,hit it, spin, hit, spin, hit.
Click to expand...

I don't see any on my old stock 1995 front rotors.
002_zps485c9833.jpg
 
pulled rotors off a gen 2 (97) the other day. no screws. the rotors were original and stuck so i used the big hammer.

my 93 didn't have screws either.
 
Denna said:
I'm replacing most wear parts in the front wheel wells on a Gen2.

I've got the the calipers off, but I'm having difficulty removing the rotors.

I've read instructions that mention using a philips screwdriver to remove a single screw holding the rotor on.

Is there screw to remove ?

I've used SuperTech lubricant, but to no avail.

Is this a matter of the rotor being rusted on and having to hammer it off with force ?
Click to expand...

If you took the caliper bracket off as well, then they should just slide off. That bracket is all that holds them in place on mine.
 
Ok, so all those years of Wac-a-mole will finally pay off.

I believe the rotors are original.

I did notice the two small holes on the rotor, but putting a flathead and philips screwdriver in them didn't catch on anything.

To be clear, when hammering the rotors, I don't need to be concerned about the two holes or removing any screws or bolts, correct ?

When I purchased a set of Raybestos 66749 Front Disc Brake Rotors, Raybestos support said I needed to check the runout and make sure it's not out of alignment by more than .002".

Is checking the runout on new rotors necessary because removing the old rotors cause a misalignment ?
 
Denna said:
Ok, so all those years of Wac-a-mole will finally pay off.

I believe the rotors are original.

I did notice the two small holes on the rotor, but putting a flathead and philips screwdriver in them didn't catch on anything.

To be clear, when hammering the rotors, I don't need to be concerned about the two holes or removing any screws or bolts, correct ?

When I purchased a set of Raybestos 66749 Front Disc Brake Rotors, Raybestos support said I needed to check the runout and make sure it's not out of alignment by more than .002".

Is checking the runout on new rotors necessary because removing the old rotors cause a misalignment ?
Click to expand...

No 2 parts are machined the same. If you want smoothest brake feel you indicate them in. Meaning you mark rotor, indicate note runout and then rotate rotor one stud clockwise and reindicate do this in all 5 stud spots and note the lowest runout and put back together there.
 
Do you know of a cost effective dial indicator ?

I asked the local parts stores if they loaned or sold them and I was told they don't stock them anymore since new rotors don't need to be checked.
 
I didn't know you could turn r&ring rotors on a Mark into such a big production.

Always learning stuff here.
 
1sik32valve said:
Mine had original rotors on it with the screw, these rotors were horrible i replaced with drilled and slotted rotors from star auto parts not some cheap a$$ vatozone crap. And hawk pads. And yes a BFH will do,hit it, spin, hit, spin, hit.
Click to expand...

Done !

I knew that sledgehammer would come in handy one day.

(1 hit + turn) x 5 = loose, removable rotors

They didn't even break.
 
If the calipers, rotors and pads are being replaced, is there any need for brake cleaner ?
 
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