Brakes............nothing but the brakes!

B

bfogel

LVC Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2004
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Location
Teaneck
Greetings,

I have a question on brakes for my 02 LS Sport with V8. I have been looking around and there are so many options to choose. I think I want ceramic pads with drilled and slotted rotors. After reviewing some sites, it appears that there are many brands to choose. Do any of you fine people have suggestions on brands and vendors? I would greatly (as would my wallet) appreciate your input.

Thanks!
 
My Setup:
•CC RotorWorks drilled and slotted rotors
•Porterfield Racing Dustless Carbon Kevlar Pads (R4-S High Performance Street and Autocross)
•StopTech Stainless Steel brake lines
•Dot4 - 446 degree brake fluid
•Brake cooling vents in lower grill (NACA Vents, aluminum brake spindle hose mount, Neoprene Duct Hose)

here are some pics -> http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/brake_rotor_vents/index.htm
 
I went to NAPA and turned my stock rotors. I am using their CMX line of ceramic brakes on the rear and SS line of ceramic brakes on the front and have had absolutely no squeal or brake dust and can stop on a dime with the resurfaced stock rotors. The brakes have been on for about 5000 miles.
 
I use Rotorpros.com Dimpled/slotted rotors autozone(moores ceramic pads) don't buy these pads they suck as@. I love my rotors thu.:D
 
i just checked out that rotorpros site but they didnt have anything, is there another website that sells them?
 
First question is...what are your requirements? The stock brakes are designed to handle all the LS can put out (on the street), and then some. With that said, I've never had an issue with the LS's braking performance.

I used DuraLast (some pad from Advance or Autozone) on my rears last year, and they are still working fine.

Fronts need replacing in about 5k, and I will find a ceramic dustless from them as well.

Now..if you are going to the track, or going for looks, or just want braking performance well above what you need for the street, then I can totally understand big brake kits and fancy rotors.
 
I've noticed a lot of squealing lately and its time to change my pads, but I looked at the rotors and they're getting some nice grooves in them, so its time to have them turned, or else get nicer rotors. What has everyone been paying for them? I'm thinking slotted and drilled, OEM sizing so that I can keep the same calipers. What kind of price range am I looking at and are there any types of rotors to stay away from?

Is the swap to new rotors something that a semi-mechanically inclined person can do, or are there special tools required? Thanks for all your help guys.
 
yes swapping pads and rotors is quite easy. once the wheel is off there are two bolts that hold the caliper on and then 2 that hold the pad frame that will need removed to remove the rotors. Youll need a C-clamp to compress the front pistons and a $5.00 rear caliper tool to do the rears (available at most auto parts stores).
 
If you squeeze the caliper pistons, make sure you loosen the bleeder screw first, or you could ruin the seals in the caliper or worst the seals in the master cylinder. As long as you don't press the brake pedal, you shouldn't have to bleed the brakes when your done.
 
actually you really shouldn't do that because you allow air to enter the system. best bet is to just loosen the fluid cap under the hood.
 
TheRebel said:
If you squeeze the caliper pistons, make sure you loosen the bleeder screw first, or you could ruin the seals in the caliper or worst the seals in the master cylinder. As long as you don't press the brake pedal, you shouldn't have to bleed the brakes when your done.
Click to expand...


I've actually never heard of this before, and never done this in 20 years of changing pads on all of my vehicles. I always loosen the Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap..but the only time I've loosened a bleeder screw, is when I needed to flush the braking system.
 
Guys, your way works, and I don't have as much experience as you, but my votech teacher told me to do it the way I do it, and when I worked at NAPA the tech training people told us to do that way (loosen the bleeder screw). It works for me. Air should not get into the system as long as your compressing the piston. If move the piston out, then yes air could get into the system. Otherwise you should be fine. I double checked, the seals aren't really the problem, but the abs check valves are. There is a chance of pushing to much fluid back through to quickly and damage them.
 
TheRebel:
Interesting. Im always wanting to learn new things...haven't heard that before, but definitely makes me want to research it more. Thanks!
 
Flame3g said:
what do u mean they didn't have anything :confused: :confused:
Click to expand...

i mean, i clicked on the lincoln emblem link and nothing came up. click on the blue oval link and all sorts of rotors come up. i sent them an email and they replied: We can ship you all four dimpled and slotted zinc silver plated rotors for only $200 shipped to your doorstep. If you are interested send us a www.paypal.com payment to sales@rotorpros.com Have a great weekend.
 
yeah thats about right they do a great job. there not trying to rip u off they did mine for $200 shipped got them in a week and a half. they do good work give them a try
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 86 (members: 1, guests: 85)
Back
Top