Braking System

1989 Mark 7

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Dec 14, 2004
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Millsboro, De (USA)
Hey, I've had this car for 16 years and this is the first "problem" I've had. When I drive and hit the brakes the emergency brake light comes on and so does the check anti-lock system light. I've had four machanics check and they say nothings wrong with my anti-lock system, my brakes, or my emergency brake. What could it be? Oh, by the way, it's a 1989 Mark VII LSC.
 
I wouldn't diagnose a brake problem without being there, but I'll say that If this is the only problem you've had after 16 years of owning any car, you are truly blessed.
 
crazyman said:
I wouldn't diagnose a brake problem without being there, but I'll say that If this is the only problem you've had after 16 years of owning any car, you are truly blessed.

:I

Could be a brake booster. (Weak)
 
1989 Mark 7 said:
Hey, I've had this car for 16 years and this is the first "problem" I've had. When I drive and hit the brakes the emergency brake light comes on and so does the check anti-lock system light. I've had four machanics check and they say nothings wrong with my anti-lock system, my brakes, or my emergency brake. What could it be? Oh, by the way, it's a 1989 Mark VII LSC.
Might have a look at the anti-lock sensors. Sometimes they get too dirty and I'm told that they do fail occasionally. Trick is to have a code reader that can tell you which one. Also, there is module above and behind your glove box. Mine fried itself after 14 years and its replacement solved my check anti-lock brake light problem. Good luck. Lincolnlov
 
I have a '88 Mk7 ..

I looked in the manuals for something the parking brake and the anti-lock system have in common but found almost nothing. The Parking Brake indicator light / switch wiring does lead to the EEC module. The parking brake release linkage is vacuum operated when the tranny is in forward Drive .. but there is no vacuum related operation to the main braking system (as far as i can see). The cable / lever actuated rear parking brake actuators and anti-lock system are not otherwise connected (as far as i can see). Be advised I'm no mechanic and i can't "see" very far..

I'm gonna guess the Parking Brake switch / indicator electronics, vacuum lines or wiring are somehow malfunctioning. This may be telling the EEC unit that there's "Something wrong with the brakes! " and the Check-anti-lock Brake warning light comes on, even though there's nothing wrong with the brakes.
 
i having the same problem with my 88 lincoln mk7 bill blass, and the accumulator is week, but the red brake light was on also. i had to put a new transmition in, and after we did that, we set the tv cable up really high so it wont burn up the trans, and the red brake light dosnt come on anymore. not saying that is what it was, but you might have someone check ur tv cable pressure. that might help a little bit.
 
Thanks all of you. I found out what it was. Turns out it was my accumulator, and yes I have been truly blessed. 16 years 149,000 miles. Maybe I'll be able to go another 16 years without any trouble.
 
1989 Mark 7 said:
Thanks all of you. I found out what it was. Turns out it was my accumulator, and yes I have been truly blessed. 16 years 149,000 miles. Maybe I'll be able to go another 16 years without any trouble.

Mark7,
Sure hope your next 149K go well. I had no trouble with my 90 SE till my wife had an accident in 2000 with about 108,000 on the clock. It was at the repair shop for 4 months. I was out of the country and returned in 2001 to find faulty and incomplete repairs. Think the person(s) working on it screwed up some of the electronics. Spent several thousand dollars more on repairs with some help from the insurance company and finally got it in decent shape. Now with 140,000 plus on it I still drive it every day and enjoy driving it almost as much as my LS sport. Lots o Luck, Lincolnlov
 
Same to you Lincolnlov. Speaking of accidents, my cousin used my car for about 6 months and she ran into the back of an undertaker. The only thing damaged was my grill. It was pushed back towards the fan and radiator.
 
brakes

crazyman said:
I wouldn't diagnose a brake problem without being there, but I'll say that If this is the only problem you've had after 16 years of owning any car, you are truly blessed.
im having the same problem , i just replaced the master cylinder and know my rear brakes wont budge.
 
I don't sell parts for these brake systems, but had worked on them for years. Here is the article:

LEARNING ABOUT YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM
The hydraulic brake booster on a late model Mark VII and early Continentals, is very different from most. It is equipped with something known as a "TEVES" brake system. I'll attempt to teach you what does what and why, so you won't spend a ton of money just because you and maybe your mechanic aren't familiar how it works. The way its always been is,..."if you don't understand it...replace the whole thing"! The problem with using this technique is, unless you want to spend $2K for the whole thing, your going to be buying a used system....which may not be a whole lot better than the one you have now.
The main parts in the system that we will discuss include an ACCUMULATOR, a HYDRAULIC PUMP, a hydraulic pump RELAY, and a PRESSURE SWITCH. These are the key players in this operation.


THE LOCATION OF THESE PARTS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR= Underneath the brake assembly (2 pin
connector)
Hydraulic pump motor RELAY = On the drivers side strut tower
PRESSURE SWITCH = 5 pin connector facing the # 7 or 8 spark plug
(drivers side)
ACCUMULATOR = Round black ball on the drivers side

WHAT THESE ITEMS DO:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR is an electric hydraulic pump used to "boost" pressure for the brake assembly. This pump is $900 new!

hydraulic pump motor RELAY is just what its sounds like. It gives the hydraulic pump motor power to come on.

PRESSURE SWITCH is the "brains" in the system. It senses how much pressure is "on line", and when the system needs more pressure, it tells the relay to "power up" the hydraulic pump motor.
Another one of its jobs is to turn on the RED BRAKE LIGHT, then the ANTI-LOCK lights to alert the driver that the pressure is dangerously low. (The reason the anti-lock light comes on, is because the ABS cannot fuction if theres a problem with the manual brakes)

ACCUMULATOR stores energy or pressure like a reservoir. Its there so the hydraulic pump motor only has to come on every 3rd or 5th time. Its design is more complicated, but basicaly the same principle as an air tank on a compressor.

WHAT NORMALLY HAPPENS:
Whats usually happens is, in time, the accumulator gets weak with age and can't hold the pressure like it was designed too, and therefore, the hydraulic motor comes on everytime the brakes are applied....rather than every 3rd or 5th time. This means all these parts are working 3 or 5 times more than they were designed to. This puts an extreme amount of pressure on an already old system.

What we know from this is, the accumulator needs replacement because its what started all this, but now the pressure switch and relay needs replacement also because it has worked it to death.

NOTE: always replace the relay when replacing the pressure switch. The relay came on everytime the pressure switch told it too, so if ones worn out....the others not far behind!
 
I dont have $800.00, My brakes gave out about forty miles from home last week. the pedal became very hard pulling to the right and there was a ticking noise inside the cabin coming from the brak pedal. I pulled into Les Schwab ( local tire store) and they knew nothing about it, the system that is. They eventually gave me an estimate on the part for $1200.00. Must have been the accumulator. I limped her back home and took her to my local mechanic. I explained the symptoms. He popped the hood and unplugged the sensor. The light comes on but the brakes have been working fine. Did I save $1200.00. Am I safe?
 
my1stmarkVII said:

...
Did I save $1200.00. Am I safe?
So far.
No.

Beg/Borrow/Bribe your way into a code reader. Get some DEFINATES as to what is going on. Read, read, read everything that you can get your hands on concerning our brake system.

Have you done preventive maintenance on it?
What work has been done on it?
Will the Eagles win the Superbowl?
 
Your safe, but you probably don't have anti-lock brakes. The clicking noise was probably the ABS freaking out because of a bad sensor or something.
 

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