Broken Exhaust Stud ideas

Markviiiedrea

Markviiiedrea

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I removed my exhaust on Monday for removal of of my transmission and I managed to break the stud off on the right side manifold (lower stud). There is about ¾” inch still sticking up but not enough to thread a nut on to it. The other one is corroded really bad and should also be removed ( but it still works for now)

Opt 1.
I would like to try heating it up and backing it out but my access to a torch is limited and I’m not pay $150 to rent one.

Opt 2.
Cutting them off flush with the bottom of the flange and getting a long drill bit in there to drill them out. That never seems to go my way and I end up having the holes off center.

Opt 3.
Grind a flat on the sides and use a wrench to back it out but that would need some sort of heat source for that to be successful.

Opt. 4
Cut the stud flush and weld a new bolt right on the manifold. I don’t think I'm a good welder to do this plus I would have to barrow one from a friend.

Opt 5.
Remove manifold and install another used one

What do you guys think? What other things have you done to get a broken stud out of the manifold? The transmission will be out of the car here tomorrow and I will have more room. Once this is fixed I can re assemble my car. Sorry about the bad cell phone pictures but that is the best I have.

Thanks

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Remove if possible

Best to remove manifold if not too difficult and/or drill it out. Heating may harden the steel and make the stud even more difficult to drill out. We found this out heating broken exhaust studs on a Freightliner Cat engine. Heating hardens steel ! Good luck.
 
Flange stud...

Drop the manifold and beat that stud out.. Go to salvage yard and get another, reinstall

You should be able to get that manifold off without too much trouble..
Please SOAK the manifold bolts at the head before trying to remove (PB Blaser )
 
So how much work would it be to pull the EM off with the trans out? I have another one in my garage so finding a replacement is not an issue. What about needing a new gasket? Can I safely reuse the old one?
 
This has happened to me a few times and to me the easiest is just grinding it flat drilling is out tapping it and installing a new stud. Even easier is drilling it and through bolting it.
 
Sapperfire said:
Flange stud...

Drop the manifold and beat that stud out.. Go to salvage yard and get another, reinstall

You should be able to get that manifold off without too much trouble..
Please SOAK the manifold bolts at the head before trying to remove (PB Blaser )
Click to expand...

Are you crazy?




You have 2 options.

1. Cut the stud flush with the flange and drill it out, you WILL need a carbide bit for this, if you dont have one, or dont want to buy one, dont even try.

2. Use a torch and cut it out and go to an auto parts store and buy a replacement stud.

Either way it is not that difficult.


If you take the manifold off to replace a broken exhaust stud, you probably shouldn't be working on your car in the first place. Take it to a professional, who will do one of the above.
 
You know in a pinch they make exh C'clamps for just this problem. I have used them before and had no problems with it. They are like 4 inches long and shape of a flattened C. Most parts stores have them.
 
Soak it in pb blaster, get a nut that fits over the stud and weld the center solid. Let it cool.. put a socket on it and back it out.
Works most of the time... LOL
 
I agree but I think I do it an easy backyard way.:)

I cut them flush with a dremel, drill them out (I use Cobalt drills, they seem to work fine) while the manifold is still on the engine.

I don't worry about drilling perfectly straight, I drill them out a little bigger anyway, because I just put a bolt and nut through it and be done with it.:D

Northern cars with 200 K miles.:)
 
Right on the Mark said:
You know in a pinch they make exh C'clamps for just this problem. I have used them before and had no problems with it. They are like 4 inches long and shape of a flattened C. Most parts stores have them.
Click to expand...

Amazon.com: Nickson 17351 Clamp-A-Stud 1 1/4-2 3/4: Automotive
LOL never heard of it.
Looks like a winter -20 deg fix.

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Do not use a carbide bit, it will chip out right away, cobalt is much better.
A hand drill doesn't have the rpms carbide needs.

You have the trans out... pull the manifold and put the used one you have on, use new gaskets.
Throw the old one or sell it.
Jack up one side of the engine if you have to.
 
urgh....now i'm conflicted....calling NAPA now. They have a gasket from fel-pro for $12, the questions is how hard is it to remove the manafold from under the car. Stay tuned for updates. Looks like the rain stoped so I can work on her again.
 
If you have rust issues that caused these studs to be F'd in the first place, my bet is in removing the manifold you may end up with broken/stripped manifold bolts, then you are REALLY screwed... Either cut them off and drill them out to put a bolt through it, or use a oxy/acetylene torch and warm up the stud, then blow it out of the hole. Good luck, I think replacing the manifold is the longest/biggest pain in the ass solution to the problem.
.
 
All this posting over all these days and you could have it back on the road in 10 minutes for 15 bucks buying one of those clamps. LOL
 
billcu said:
I cut them flush with a dremel, drill them out (I use Cobalt drills, they seem to work fine) while the manifold is still on the engine.

I don't worry about drilling perfectly straight, I drill them out a little bigger anyway, because I just put a bolt and nut through it and be done with it.:D

Northern cars with 200 K miles.:)
Click to expand...

yep. this is what i did. works just fine.
 
I've done 5 of these now...

The ONLY way it will be removed is grinding flush, drill them out, and tap them.

Remember your brothers car Chris :p
 
I have extra manifolds....but what diesel Dan said. The chances of me braking one of those studs is not worth the risk. I went with my original thought and ground it off and used a SS through bolt.

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buy a propane torch from the hardware store and use the fine tip to heat the manifold up do not direct the flame on the stud but the cast manifold . after removal run a tap up the threads then use anti-sez (high temp) when you go back together
 
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