Changing the Front Wheelhub/Bearing plus some ideas

[Jim Henderson]

This weekend I finally got around to changing my Front drivers side wheelhub/bearing. I am soooo lucky I live in Southern California. NO RUST BABY!!.


I have been dreading this job for ages since I read all the other postings where people have to pound/ torch sweat the hub out or take it to a shop or do various tricks. Mine just fell out when the bolts were removed. The passenger side hub was replaced under warranty at about 50,000miles. This hub was replaced this past weekend at 110,000.

Below hopefully in some order are pictures.

I used a 12mm socket to remove the caliper bolts, and a 15mm socket to remove the 4 wheel hub bolts and the two caliper mounting frame bolts. These take a fair amount of muscle but that was the hardest part of the job.

1) Remove the tire and wheel, duh.

2) Remove the caliper, 12mm. Remove the Caliper frame, 15mm. Then remove the rotor. There may be some serrated lock washers holding the rotor in place. Use needle nose or flat screwdriver to turn them out.

3) Remove the 4 Hub retaining bolts, 15mm. Grunt work. You might need to turn the steering wheel to get at all of them. Remove teh 2 15mm bolts that hold the frame of the calipers. Grunt work.

4) If you are lucky, the hub will fall out at this point. You will need to remove the plastic Wheel well to get at the ABS connector on the wheel well sheet metal.

5)Clean the area where the hub will sit. I used a paper towel and WD40.

6) Use Anti sieze on the mounting surfaces of the hub and the shoulders of the 4 retaining bolts. Use some Blue locktite on the threads. Don't put any antisieze in the bolt holes since that will slop over onto the bolt threads.

Put the hub in place and torque to spec, it's somewhere on our website. I just used heavy hand tension with a 1/2 inch ratchet handle. Wild guess is torque is about 60 to maybe 80 foot pounds.

This job was 10,000% easier than I feared. IF YOU LIVE IN A RUST FREE AREA, it will probably take you about 3 hours if you take it easy. The 6 bolts are the hardest part of the job due to requiring some muscle to break them loose and limited space for a long breaker bar. If you can do disc brakes, you can do this job, if things don't get stuck, then it becomes a brute strenght type job.

Some Ideas about how to get the hubs out if they were stuck...

I liked the one guys idea about using severl bolts and nuts in the hub holes to act like an internal pulley pusher.

But I am lazy so some ideas which I never got to use might work for you...

If you have an old beater rotor, you could mount that back on the hub studs after removing the caliper and caliper mount etc. Use some lug nuts to tighten the beater rotor in place and then... beat on it with the tool of your choice. Alternatively use your good rotor but use a rubber mallet or duct tape some thin pieces of plywood on the rotors to beat on.

Alternatively, I was also thinking maybe just remounting the tire and whell bacl onto the hub and using it as a big handle to yank the hub back and forth might work.

Hopefully I will never use these ideas, but I think they would work and best of all for me, they are free.

Below are pics...

Hope this helps,

Jim Henderson



Picture notes... I got to figure out how to add them with the pics...

First pic is the raybestos box with the new wheel hub deliverd by JC Whitney.

Only heart break is the box has small print... Made in China. Is nothing sacred anymore??!!

Next pic Plastic wheel well splash shield removed to get access to the ABS connector. it will require a slight finger pressure on the tab to release the connector lock. BTW, you can also see the fuel filter for future reference. There are about 5 plastic quick fasteners. just pull out the center bullseye and then pry the big plastic donut out. There is 1 Phillips screw at the bottom of the wheel well that also needs to be removed.

Next pic shows how the hub just fell loose after I losened the fourth and last reatinging bolt. Note the clean metal surface shown in the gap. No rust in California, "It never Rains in California..."

Next is new hub left, old hub right. Other than a bit of dust the old hub looks fine. It does make a kind of grumbling sound when you turn it, but it was not loose, no wobble nothing when I was working on it. Just a loud humm, my son said it sounded like a B17 bomber on a mission. Also in the background you can see the Caliper mounting frame that needs to be removed in order to remove the rotor etc.

Next is the mounting hole before cleaning. No RUST, yeehaw.

Next is the mounting after celaning with WD40 on a paper towel. If yours is rusty you should wire wheel or use sand paper to clean out the hole. DO NOT make the hole bigger, duh.

Next picture, you're gonne need plenty of this stuff to keep the hub from sticking in the future. I applied to the monting hole and the front surface. Also applied to the surfaces on the hub mount and arount the "beltline" of the hub. A little on the shoulders of the 4 hub bolts.

Next picture shows hub and mount and bolts with Antisieze as described above and a dab of blue locktite on the bolt threads.

That's all folks.

 

[FASTLLS]

Good write up for the people that haven't done it..

 

[M4rk]

This needs to be a sticky. Thank you!

 

[Jim Henderson]

ABS light on right after hub replacement, NO Problem

There was one warning light after I finished the job. When I started the car just before a test drive the ABS light was showing on the dash. I pushed the system test button and nothing came up but the ABS light stayed on.


I drove less than a short block and the light reset itself. So no worries. It is still off after my 30 mile commute, so I assume it is good to go.

What I think happened is that I disconnected the ABS plug as mentioned and shown in one of the pictures. THen I started the engine to turn the wheel so I could get at some of the hub bolts. I think at that time the computer noticed that there was no test return signal from the sensor so it set the ABS light. Since i was not paying attention to the dash I did not notice the light until I went for a test drive.

Once the test drive made the ABS sensor send signals to the computer, it reset the light.

So not to worry if your ABS light comes on right after replacing the Wheel hub and before driving. Just drive it carefully for a block and I bet yours will reset too.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

[LSfan83]

stuck wheel hubs in areas with winter climate

I own an '02 LS that has original hub/bearing assemblies. Mine, unfortunately, has been a Michigan vehicle its entire life, which makes this job somewhat of a nightmare. I tackled the project this past weekend, and I'll give everybody my suggestions on how to remove the assembly if you live in an area where corrosion is an issue.

Remove the wheel, brake caliper, caliper mount, and rotor as stated in previous posts. Then remove the four bolts that hold the hub in......now the fun begins. Since the control arm/knuckle is aluminum and the hub is steel, the effects of corrosion and winter weather become exaggerated with this repair. A layer of corrosion will build up, mainly between the face of the knuckle and the mounting surface of the hub which will literally weld the two parts together. Until this is removed, the hub will not budge, regardless of how much you beat on it. The method of using bolts as a puller was also ineffective. The corrosion inside the knuckle itself was surprisingly minimal, however.

First step was to use a drill with a steel brush attachment to clean away all of the surface dirt and corrosion. Then, using chisels, we began chipping away at the area between the two parts, removing the buildup. Once a gap was created, use either a hacksaw or thin grinding wheel to cut all around the hub mounting surface, removing the corrosion layer that is fusing the two parts together. Just be careful not to damage the face of the aluminum control arm. Next, turn the wheel all the way to the side which you are repairing. If you're replacing the right side turn the wheel all the way right, and vice versa. Using the tool of your choice, break the plastic cover and ABS sensor off of the backside of the assembly, exposing the bearings. In the center of the bearings is a large steel surface that looks like a large nut. This is the best area in which to hammer on to achieve powerful, even blows. Using a LARGE hammer, begin hammering squarely on that area, while alternately using a pry bar on the front of the hub. If you managed to remove most of the corrosion, the hub should start to hammer out fairly quickly at this point. As mentioned before, if you've lived in a Midwest climate this really comes down to brute strength at the end. Clean the area thoroughly removing all remaining corrosion and install the new hub. Installing mine, I started all of the bolts, and then alternated turning each bolt evenly to pull the new hub into the knuckle. This prevented me from having to beat on the new part, as well as assuring that the bolt holes would be aligned the whole way. As a side note, removing the rotor dust shield will make this job a lot less frustrating, but since its riveted, getting it back on with the original hardware is nearly impossible. Thats entirely up to the individual. Hope this helps, and thanks for an excellent write-up, Jim.....

 

[TooManyToys]

I have not had to do LS hubs as yet, but I'll throw a few recommendations based on past work with similar hubs here in the rust belt.

A week before you do this apply some PB blaster as best you can to the hub-knuckle interface. I have needle oiler bottles that I use instead of spraying everything in sight.

An important aspect is to keep the hub parallel to the knuckle so it doesn't side load while you are trying to take them out. Keeping the bolts into the hub a number of threads helps this, and if you have to hit with a hammer often you can tap on the bolt heads in a circular pattern to knock the hub out (depends if you have hammer room). You may need new bolts in the end, which you should have anyway per the spec.

Those little clips that hold the rotors on during supplier shipment are called Tinnerman Nuts and they are only there for shipment purposes. A cold chisel hit across opposite areas will split them, or using a pair of diagonal cutters will either cut they open or just grab one tab and pull them off.

Another way to pull the hub (with partially backed off bolts) is to reinstall the rotor in reverse and put on three or five lug nuts evenly for a few threads (spare lug nuts are better). Then use the rotor as a slide hammer, hitting against the lug nuts.

On edit: Now that I looked at the old thread, it's a good one for reference: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=31764

 

[zrxinch]

Pulling this one out of the archives... just changed out my front right hub. Took 1hr 20min. That was including the time to dig out my coveralls and clean up afterwards. Gotta love CA cars for the rust free jobs...hate the CA emissions though.

 

[bamaboy]

your a Good Man ! This is what this site should be about folks trying to help others with similar problems and share the rewards ! Keep up the good work !

 

[G-RELL]

your a Good Man ! This is what this site should be about folks trying to help others with similar problems and share the rewards ! Keep up the good work !

that IS what this sights about... search for just about any issue and you'll find similar advice for just about everything... YOu are correct though, some good advice.

FYI if your looking for another way of removing, look for Hites guide to wheel hubs

 

[bamaboy]

Still loven my ole EYE 2s Play on brother ! Good to converse with some GOOD GUYS !

 

[ESP J]

this is next on my list of mechanical things to , i got quoted $133 (including tax) for the hub and wheel bearing is that normal? thats from oreillys , or can someone point me in the right direction for a cheaper better one, i see alot of ebay for a hell cheaper but are they worth it?

e.g.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-LS-Ford-Thunderbird-w-ABS-Front-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-/370812412746

 

[G-RELL]

Still loven my ole EYE 2s Play on brother ! Good to converse with some GOOD GUYS !

My Buddy had a set of Eye 2's he was deadly with... Ping's a great company, great products, just need to play a little catch up

 

[LS4me]

this is next on my list of mechanical things to , i got quoted $133 (including tax) for the hub and wheel bearing is that normal? thats from oreillys , or can someone point me in the right direction for a cheaper better one, i see alot of ebay for a hell cheaper but are they worth it?

e.g.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-LS-Ford-Thunderbird-w-ABS-Front-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-/370812412746

The front wheel bearing is contained in the hub. Get the Timken assemblies from Rock Auto.

Oh, save the studs from the old hub. They're good to have around.......

 

[bamaboy]

New to the site got mixed up with some Mark Guys the other day IT was like crossing over to the DARK SIDE ! LOL They don't care for us LS GUYS !

 

[joegr]

New to the site got mixed up with some Mark Guys the other day IT was like crossing over to the DARK SIDE ! LOL They don't care for us LS GUYS !

I don't know. They didn't seem too mean about it. I personally think they are right, A Cobra badge does not belong on the LS. Of course, I also thought the comment about a Lincoln star impaling a jaguar was funny.

 

[weeves]

this is next on my list of mechanical things to , i got quoted $133 (including tax) for the hub and wheel bearing is that normal? thats from oreillys , or can someone point me in the right direction for a cheaper better one, i see alot of ebay for a hell cheaper but are they worth it?

e.g.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-LS-Ford-Thunderbird-w-ABS-Front-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-/370812412746

Get the Timken hub assemblies. Some of those cheaper hub assemblies do not include the protective sleeve on the mating surface which is needed to prevent galvanic corrosion between the steel hub assembly and aluminum knuckle.

I just did the front wheel bearings a couple of weeks ago and the old wheel bearings were seized on the knuckle due to galvanic corrosion. The old sleeves had deteriorated to almost nothing. I tried prying them out, applied heat, and also used a slide hammer without any success. I ended up removing two of the wheel studs and used a bolt and nut to push the wheel bearing out of the knuckle.

 

[bamaboy]

Your right I guess I just took it to heart sinse I had just joined,but I once had a 70 Torino with a 429 SCJ 9'rear and a toploader and they came with a Cobra emblem on them I know it don't belong on a LS ! But Cobra has been associated with a lot of fomoco and Carroll Shelby RIP !

 

[1LoudLS]

no, a lot of the mark guys do not care for anything having to do with an LS, but there are a few that realizes that good cars are actually good cars... also a lot of LS guys over here can be the same way, we have plenty of people that believe no other car is as great as ours are.

while I do support a lot of marks wearing cobra or cobra star badges (they do share a bit in common, unlike the LS which has nothing in common) , there are very few LS out there that should ever think about putting one on... cars built by the special vehicle team are not just regular versions with tint and pretty wheels, they are also a lot faster than their standard counterparts which is where very few cobra badged LS

 

[chris2523]

New to the site got mixed up with some Mark Guys the other day IT was like crossing over to the DARK SIDE ! LOL They don't care for us LS GUYS !

eh, you came over to the other side and insulted some people too.
you aren't free of blame.

they mostly don't care for certain people.
plenty of mark guys we don't like either...
i kinda wish you would get that onfreshls guy back.

Of course, I also thought the comment about a Lincoln star impaling a jaguar was funny.

as did I, :lol:. not bad.


neat idea with the bolt press thing.
luckily, our '00 LS8 has little/no rust and the wheel bearings were very easy to change.
much easier than on my Mark.
and always buy Timken.

 

[bamaboy]

Nice ride Cris love the way it sets ! Hope my Braves can do something with your Cards this year !

 

[bamaboy]

I am with you on your blame quote ! It all started in the 60s all these whiners need to do like the Eagles song and get over it !

 

[AmsterDutch]

stuck wheel hubs in areas with winter climate

I own an '02 LS that has original hub/bearing assemblies. Mine, unfortunately, has been a Michigan vehicle its entire life, which makes this job somewhat of a nightmare. I tackled the project this past weekend, and I'll give everybody my suggestions on how to remove the assembly if you live in an area where corrosion is an issue.

Remove the wheel, brake caliper, caliper mount, and rotor as stated in previous posts. Then remove the four bolts that hold the hub in......now the fun begins. Since the control arm/knuckle is aluminum and the hub is steel, the effects of corrosion and winter weather become exaggerated with this repair. A layer of corrosion will build up, mainly between the face of the knuckle and the mounting surface of the hub which will literally weld the two parts together. Until this is removed, the hub will not budge, regardless of how much you beat on it. The method of using bolts as a puller was also ineffective. The corrosion inside the knuckle itself was surprisingly minimal, however.

First step was to use a drill with a steel brush attachment to clean away all of the surface dirt and corrosion. Then, using chisels, we began chipping away at the area between the two parts, removing the buildup. Once a gap was created, use either a hacksaw or thin grinding wheel to cut all around the hub mounting surface, removing the corrosion layer that is fusing the two parts together. Just be careful not to damage the face of the aluminum control arm. Next, turn the wheel all the way to the side which you are repairing. If you're replacing the right side turn the wheel all the way right, and vice versa. Using the tool of your choice, break the plastic cover and ABS sensor off of the backside of the assembly, exposing the bearings. In the center of the bearings is a large steel surface that looks like a large nut. This is the best area in which to hammer on to achieve powerful, even blows. Using a LARGE hammer, begin hammering squarely on that area, while alternately using a pry bar on the front of the hub. If you managed to remove most of the corrosion, the hub should start to hammer out fairly quickly at this point. As mentioned before, if you've lived in a Midwest climate this really comes down to brute strength at the end. Clean the area thoroughly removing all remaining corrosion and install the new hub. Installing mine, I started all of the bolts, and then alternated turning each bolt evenly to pull the new hub into the knuckle. This prevented me from having to beat on the new part, as well as assuring that the bolt holes would be aligned the whole way. As a side note, removing the rotor dust shield will make this job a lot less frustrating, but since its riveted, getting it back on with the original hardware is nearly impossible. Thats entirely up to the individual. Hope this helps, and thanks for an excellent write-up, Jim.....

What a great post this post would've saved me $266 dollars if I would've read it before ordering new knuckle with ball joints and both left and right wheel hub assemblies I had no idea you could get these out I live in the Midwest also Minnesota where liquid rust is poured on the roads so 17 years of this stuff Has welded the hub to the knuckle

 

[heyjewel]

What a great post this post would've saved me $266 dollars if I would've read it before ordering new knuckle with ball joints and both left and right wheel hub assemblies I had no idea you could get these out I live in the Midwest also Minnesota where liquid rust is poured on the roads so 17 years of this stuff As welded the hub to the knuckle

I ust did the hubs and balljoints at same time. Easy to do by pulling the knuckle off with those 2 parts still in it. And having a friend with a BJ press.