Charging system on 2000 LIncoln LS V8

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gsu95

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Don't post here often and didn't want to start a new thread, but can't find anything after quick search.

I've got 2000 Lincoln LS V8.

Battery died, I thought it was bad, took it out and took it to parts place; they tested, said it was ok. I charged it back up put it back in car and drove up to parts place for them to test. Guy put tester on battery, I cranked up. It said no charge, guy said alternator is bad. But he didn't test it or check for loose belts or looser wires. I need to have that checked.

But my message board says charging system is fine and there are no warning lights. That's what makes me wonder if there's more wrong (or something else wrong) than just an alternator.


I am not mechanically gifted. I can do simple repairs and had old MGB and a pickup I could do work on and replace things, but even replacing something like a starter could take me hours. All that to say if this seems like dumb stuff it's because

I enjoy reading this board from time to time and have learned from it. Thanks in advance and I'll check back tomorrow.
 
Yes, it is possible for the alternator to fail without a warning light. (The charging system okay message only means that the light is off.) It could be something other then the alternator itself, but usually, it is the alternator. Replacing the alternator on the LS is fairly difficult compared to most cars. It you aren't fairly well equipped tool wise, then you should probably get someone else to do this.
 
And, if you didn't know: You need the OEM (Motorcraft) alternator (new or rebuilt) for the replacement alternator. Many aftermarket alternators do not work with the 1st gen LS because of the unusual alternator control scheme that it uses.
 
joegr said:
And, if you didn't know: You need the OEM (Motorcraft) alternator (new or rebuilt) for the replacement alternator. Many aftermarket alternators do not work with the 1st gen LS because of the unusual alternator control scheme that it uses.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I didn't know -- just makes it even more fun, I guess.
 
Auto Zone will give you the right one---and MAYBE even a good one. On a Saturday afternoon they were the only source available when I needed one. It lasted several months. They give you 'lifetime' and the next one lasted a bit longer. The third one was good for about a year. I've been on the current one for about four years now so maybe I'm alright!!!

KS
 
cammerfe said:
Auto Zone will give you the right one---and MAYBE even a good one. On a Saturday afternoon they were the only source available when I needed one. It lasted several months. They give you 'lifetime' and the next one lasted a bit longer. The third one was good for about a year. I've been on the current one for about four years now so maybe I'm alright!!!

KS
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Good to know. Thanks. I've had my LS several years, seems about every 6-8 months something or other goes wrong. Still love the car, and I reckon fixing it is cheaper than a monthly car payment.

Thanks to all for the help.
 
cammerfe said:
Auto Zone will give you the right one---and MAYBE even a good one. On a Saturday afternoon they were the only source available when I needed one. It lasted several months. They give you 'lifetime' and the next one lasted a bit longer. The third one was good for about a year. I've been on the current one for about four years now so maybe I'm alright!!!

KS
Click to expand...

If your current Auto Zone alternator is working, that means whoever provided the core didn't have an alternator problem.
 
joegr said:
And, if you didn't know: You need the OEM (Motorcraft) alternator (new or rebuilt) for the replacement alternator. Many aftermarket alternators do not work with the 1st gen LS because of the unusual alternator control scheme that it uses.
Click to expand...

Think I'm going to order one and have a mechanic buddy help me with it, but internet keeps trying to sell me aftermarket brands. Amazon tells me the Motorcraft alternators won't fit my car.
 
There have been some reported cases of Rock Auto selling the name brand part, but shipping a cheaper off brand part (in the name brand box) instead. That's been enough to keep me away from them.
 
joegr said:
There have been some reported cases of Rock Auto selling the name brand part, but shipping a cheaper off brand part (in the name brand box) instead. That's been enough to keep me away from them.
Click to expand...

Ah so. Thanks.
 
That's a pretty good price for a new Ford alternator anyway. I'd jump on that one. Maybe get two so you'll have a spare because eventually Ford won't sell them anymore.
 
Telco said:
That's a pretty good price for a new Ford alternator anyway. I'd jump on that one. Maybe get two so you'll have a spare because eventually Ford won't sell them anymore.
Click to expand...

well the first one I've got has made it 160k+ so far... I would think a second one will easily outlast the car.
 
Telco said:
That's a pretty good price for a new Ford alternator anyway. I'd jump on that one. Maybe get two so you'll have a spare because eventually Ford won't sell them anymore.
Click to expand...

To be fair, that is Ford rebuilt. (new no longer available.) Still, I trust their rebuilding standards way more than any of the aftermarket rebuilders.
 
Telco said:
That's a pretty good price for a new Ford alternator anyway. I'd jump on that one. Maybe get two so you'll have a spare because eventually Ford won't sell them anymore.
Click to expand...

That's good point. Once I 'retire' I want to try my hand at restoring this car to some semblance of glory.

That's when I'm not wanting to blow it up.


This is a great site, by the way. I'm envious of some of the LS's I've seen photos of on here. One day, perhaps.
 
joegr said:
Yes, it is possible for the alternator to fail without a warning light. (The charging system okay message only means that the light is off.) It could be something other then the alternator itself, but usually, it is the alternator. Replacing the alternator on the LS is fairly difficult compared to most cars. It you aren't fairly well equipped tool wise, then you should probably get someone else to do this.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming I'll need basic stuff -- sockets, a torque wrench, screw drivers, jack stands and patience. Is there anything else I should have. Hoping to have a mechanic help once alternator gets here, but I might do some of the preliminary stuff myself just to get my hands dirty.

Appreciate all your input on this.
 
At the point of the second failure, I was actually on the starting line for an ECTA race in Maxton, NC. We towed it back to the pits and went into town for a replacement. By the time we got back the light was about gone and we did the R&R using a flashlight and the hand tools we'd tossed into the trunk. You won't need a torque wrench.

KS
 
Yeah, it's all basic, but the more extensions, gear wrenches and wobble joints you have the better.
I cut one of my cheaper gear wrenches down to fit in the area. There's one nut on there that you can't get your hand in there to feel it at the same time as a wrench, and you can't get a line of sight on it. You have to know where it is and what size (13mm, if I recall) and just keep sticking the socket on an extension in until you hit it. Once you do, you'll find that it is really stuck on there.
 
If it's the nut on top, I think it was a 10MM. Also, you need ramps, not jack stands. The alternator comes out the A-arm and it needs to be in the collapsed position, not the fully extended position, to get it out. Pay attention to how it comes out because it needs to go back in the exact same way. It helps if you play Tetris.

Another thing, there is a possibility that you might have a collapsed engine mount. You'll know if the long bolt won't come out. It will run into the bottom of the rad support. If this is the case, remove the bolts for the engine mount on the passenger side, put a board between the oil pan and a floor jack and jack the engine up a bit. I had to do this on mine without knowing at the time that the engine mounts are fluid filled and mine likely lost all its fluid.
 
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