Check Charging System??

[Burgundy LS]

I just got done fixing one problem and now I have another, go figure! Thanks to all who helped with the clockspring change, really helpful. Anyway, so i'm driving my car and just all of the sudden my battery light comes on and the message center chimes at me "check charging system". I start manually checking the status by pushing the status button and when I get to the "charging system" part, the light went off and it said charging system ok. Now it has done it about 4-5 times in the last four days. But never stays on for more than about 30 Sec. then back to normal status. The only thing I have tried is taking off the possitive cable on the battery while it's running and nothing happened, so i'm assuming the Alt. is ok. Need help before possible break down

Thanks, steve

 

[nittanylion64]

Hey, Hawk03 has been having the same problem. He has replaced the starter and battery. The dealership said the starter is bad. He is replacing it again. Now, his car is starting intermittantly. If you have any remedies or questions talk to him too.

 

[2001LS8Sport]

The only thing I have tried is taking off the possitive cable on the battery while it's running and nothing happened, so i'm assuming the Alt. is ok.

That procedure is NEVER a good idea. Take the CAR to a shop...not just the alternator....and have them run a diagnosis check on the complete charging system. Where it's intermittant though, it may be difficult to find.

Are you running a big stereo system or something else that draws big power?

 

[01LincolnLSV8]

Try it...

That procedure is NEVER a good idea. Take the CAR to a shop...not just the alternator....and have them run a diagnosis check on the complete charging system. Where it's intermittant though, it may be difficult to find.

Are you running a big stereo system or something else that draws big power?

Yes that is a good idea have a shop check your battery charging process to make sure everything is ok... I had the EXACT same problem, i had to replace the battery it wasnt holding a charge anymore.. Plus mine was the original stock battery, so 6 years of use was pretty good i think... try the test first if it says your charging system is ok then try a different battery it worked for me...

 

[Hawk03]

Hey, Hawk03 has been having the same problem. He has replaced the starter and battery. The dealership said the starter is bad. He is replacing it again. Now, his car is starting intermittantly. If you have any remedies or questions talk to him too.

These are the same symptoms my car had when the battery went dead. Mine was app. 6yrs old as well. I had the charging system checked when I had the battery replaced and it checked out good. My bet is your battery.

 

[LincolnTech38]

You never want to take the battery cable off while the car is running! Espicially on a LS with 10 or more modules. Voltage spikes and modules dont get along.

have you charging system tested.

More than likely its early signs of failing alternator, or it could be as simple as the belt slipping.

Jay

 

[beaups]

I'm still trying to figure out what scares everybody about pulling the battery cable while the cars running in the LS. Yes, I know the alternator produces AC current and then rectifies it (been covered). But there seems to be a theory that the battery somehow "soaks up" voltage spikes. Not the case. If the alternator decides to spit out 60 volts....60 volts are going to hit your electronics (and all 10 modules) whether the battery is on there or not. These same modules should have their own capacitors and all the necessary "power conditioning" built into them. People here act like there are microprocessors plugged directly in to the 12v system of the car. That's simply not the case.

 

[jchurchill@bondoptics.com]

YUp me too guys same thing here is a 02 LS 3.9

 

[1LoudLS]

I'm still trying to figure out what scares everybody about pulling the battery cable while the cars running in the LS. Yes, I know the alternator produces AC current and then rectifies it (been covered). But there seems to be a theory that the battery somehow "soaks up" voltage spikes. Not the case. If the alternator decides to spit out 60 volts....60 volts are going to hit your electronics (and all 10 modules) whether the battery is on there or not. These same modules should have their own capacitors and all the necessary "power conditioning" built into them. People here act like there are microprocessors plugged directly in to the 12v system of the car. That's simply not the case.

well for starters, its called voltage ripple, which is caused by the way an alternator creates its power. read a book.
you know this is kinda a big deal because of how sensitive the computers are when the battery starts to die. these cars go crazy when the battery starts failing, long before the battery is too bad and can no longer start the car. if so many problems are caused when there is a weak battery in the system, how can you tell people that it is safe to have no battery.

while yes nothing is going to stop 60 volts from frying your computers, but all of these computers in cars are far more sensitive than anything that was in cars decades before

not then what happens if your alternator was not 100% in working order, or was in the beginning phases of burning out?

the point is not that doing it will for sure fry a computer, but that it is very easy to do so.




I also have always found it amusing when the people who design these exact same modules are telling you not to do it because of the consequences, but then its always other people who tell you its fine to do it with no possible harm...

wonder who the right one to listen to would be?

 

[oddball]

... there seems to be a theory that the battery somehow "soaks up" voltage spikes....

I encourage you to learn more about rectification. There are few - if any - smoothing capacitors on an alternator's regulator which means the output from the diodes goes directly into the car's system.
The battery is rather similar to a very large capacitor for this load and *does* serve to smooth this output into a uniform ~14.5V supply. There would not be a 60V spike if you unplugged the battery and that's not the issue. The issue is the power supply becomes unstable and oscilates rapidly.

It would be fantastic if every electronic module had sufficient power filtering and isolation - but they don't. Why would they? The battery takes out the worst of the ripple and then only minor power filtering is required.

Just because it doesn't fry all electronics every time doesn't mean it isn't a terrible idea and has significant risk. Especially since that sort of test does not tell you anything that other - non risky - tests can't tell you.

 

[joegr]

You are both quite right, but I doubt that beaups will ever see it.
Last Activity: November 4th, 2007 07:55 AM

 

[1LoudLS]

:slam
well i guess its at least a good thing the new guy is searching.

what a weird resurrection...