I live in PA and ever since the tempatures are finally 70's & up the check steering assist is on every time and the effort is exteremly heavy due to no assistance. I have tried changing out the fluid though it did not smell, wasn't burnt and doesn't have flecks gunk, etc in it. Is there some kind of sensor that is common to go bad, I really don't want to spend $80 on a scan at the dealer then have to replace the part. The error comes on immeditaly so i don't think its the fluid or ps pump itself getting warm. But rather it immediatly comes on at start up. Any ideas?
Check steering assist constant after warm weather hit
- Thread starter purelux
- Start date
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
Your power steering has a leak or one of the pressure sensors has gone bad. There are pressure sensors for the variable power steering.
Regards,
Brad.
Regards,
Brad.
I charged the battery and the steering seems to be working well now.
I checked the alternator it tested good but the battery according to the charger is low. Its a vector 2-100amp with start and a 24hr cycle to help with sulfer buildup. It starts checks the bat, stops restarts based on how much the bat can take/needs and steps down from the charge you select, down. With the alternator testing good why could cause the bat to need topped up weekly? The bat is a new optima which also tested good removed from the car on a tester.
I checked the alternator it tested good but the battery according to the charger is low. Its a vector 2-100amp with start and a 24hr cycle to help with sulfer buildup. It starts checks the bat, stops restarts based on how much the bat can take/needs and steps down from the charge you select, down. With the alternator testing good why could cause the bat to need topped up weekly? The bat is a new optima which also tested good removed from the car on a tester.
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
I had a bad battery take out 3 alternators - it tested good and I kept putting alternators in, but it was the battery. Get a new battery. I will be replacing my batteries every 3 years regardless of their shape.
Regards,
Brad.
Regards,
Brad.
I'm not sure if its the battery simply because the old one which was a bout 2 years old did the same thing. After getting the optima it was only a matter of weeks before this problem came back. I know the old battery was bad as it was leaking out the negative terminal and kept causing corrosion. I'm thinking it my be the alternatior isn't powerful enough or has a faulty regulator. Were there differen't amp alternators for the conti or only one? The alternator is a gold series from autozone and is roughly a year old with under 15k on it.
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
As far as I know, there is only one alternator the 149 amp model. Changing the regulator is very easy once you learn how to remove and replace the alternator.
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
Make sure you use the proper belt tensioner tool and dont pull the tensioner too hard or too far, or you will have a squeaky belt due to a stretched tensioner spring or cracked tensior mount bolt bushing. This bushing is just made of nylon plastic, I cracked mine by not pulling straight not using the proper tool.
The tensioner (oem) and idler pulley(dayco) are all new as is the belt (gatorback). I'm starting to think its the air compressor for the suspension kicking in too often and drawing the battery down and it doesn't get a chance to recharge with the city driving. The car has 112k on it with the original air springs.
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
I would go with your previous diagnosis about a bad battery and or bad regulator.
Well it turned out it was the alternator, though also the inner tie rod drivers side was bad, suspension link pass side, all the pads, front right caliper and the rotors needed machined or replaced. Problem is now the "new" alternator a palladium p777316g causes the battery light to flicker around 5k then as rpms rise brighten and go solid. At first I though the belt may have gone bad as there was a burning rubber smell when taking the car to get fixed. Though the problem persists. Any ideas, is it just the new alt happens to be bad?
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
Sounds like the replamenent unit is faulty and can go back on warranty.
One of my replacement alternators had a bad regulator. The reman alternators did not have a new regulator installed. My bad one was fine until rpms got over 2500 then the red battery light would come on. I bought a regulator and installed it myself and fixed the problem.
One of my replacement alternators had a bad regulator. The reman alternators did not have a new regulator installed. My bad one was fine until rpms got over 2500 then the red battery light would come on. I bought a regulator and installed it myself and fixed the problem.
Yep it was the alternator was bad the dealer load tested it and it maxed at 13v. Apparently palladium considers a alternator "good" as long as it looks clean. I wish they were required to test these things and put a copy of it in the box with the alternators. You buy a quality car stereo amp and it comes with one, but you buy a alternator that powers the car and they don't its amazing.
SilverSweetness
Active LVC Member
Possible Gremlin
You may not be out of the woods there buddy.
I had a similar problem but the dealership told me it was the V.A.P.S. Valve. The general idea being that our cars have "Variable Assist Power Steering". The part is a solenoid that can be adjusted with the ride control feature on the Conti and is also speed sensitive. When the car is set to "easy" steering the valve is as far open as it can be, also when at parking an slow speeds, but when set to "hard" steering feel, or at highway speeds, the valve is closed mostly so as to allow less power steering fluid through the system, effectivly making it harder to steer.
When this part starts to go bad you will have problems steering in the HOT heat of summer. One way to test the part for only the cost of "friggin expensive" gas is to drive around on a hot day (80 degrees or hotter) till the engine is at operating temp, then park and run the car in an OPEN (no cO2 deaths please) garage with the air conditioning on full and let the car idle for at leas 10 to 15 minutes. What should happen is that all that heat buildup and the little extra strain on the engine from the AC will cause he valve to get hot and become sticky.
Now back out of the garage and try to steer a bit, you should notice it becomes very hard to steer and the "check steering assist" warning will show up. If so then it is probably the VAPS valve.
I was quoted around 500 to 600 by the dealer so I took it upon myself to solve the problem with ingenuity rather than money. I got my turkey baster out and pulled all the fluid out I could get ( I rigged a small hose to it to get more fluid out). then I replaced the fluid with new power steering fluid and drove around for a few days then repeated the process.
This was last summer and I have not had the problem since. While you may have had another problem as well, perhaps this may still be of some use, to you or others, if this problem shows up again.
You may not be out of the woods there buddy.
I had a similar problem but the dealership told me it was the V.A.P.S. Valve. The general idea being that our cars have "Variable Assist Power Steering". The part is a solenoid that can be adjusted with the ride control feature on the Conti and is also speed sensitive. When the car is set to "easy" steering the valve is as far open as it can be, also when at parking an slow speeds, but when set to "hard" steering feel, or at highway speeds, the valve is closed mostly so as to allow less power steering fluid through the system, effectivly making it harder to steer.
When this part starts to go bad you will have problems steering in the HOT heat of summer. One way to test the part for only the cost of "friggin expensive" gas is to drive around on a hot day (80 degrees or hotter) till the engine is at operating temp, then park and run the car in an OPEN (no cO2 deaths please) garage with the air conditioning on full and let the car idle for at leas 10 to 15 minutes. What should happen is that all that heat buildup and the little extra strain on the engine from the AC will cause he valve to get hot and become sticky.
Now back out of the garage and try to steer a bit, you should notice it becomes very hard to steer and the "check steering assist" warning will show up. If so then it is probably the VAPS valve.
I was quoted around 500 to 600 by the dealer so I took it upon myself to solve the problem with ingenuity rather than money. I got my turkey baster out and pulled all the fluid out I could get ( I rigged a small hose to it to get more fluid out). then I replaced the fluid with new power steering fluid and drove around for a few days then repeated the process.
This was last summer and I have not had the problem since. While you may have had another problem as well, perhaps this may still be of some use, to you or others, if this problem shows up again.
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
I would forgo the VAPS until changed the fluid and install Mobil 1 ATF or Amsoil ATF. Might wanna check for leaks before hand and get replacement hoses. My power steering fluid filter mount tubes were leaking. I ran my car with low pressure due to new leaks for over 700 miles. I for sure had caused the pump some hardship, all I did was put the new oil mentioned above, and my pump is still going strong after another 32,000 miles. Don't worry, I have been reading on how to change the pump...
If you read my posts, you will note a battery may test good, I was with the technician and watched the tests - all good, and it took out a second alternator (regulator) - they had 5 technicians doing the tests from the Ford book, took them 2 hours to decide it was the alternator. The noob technicians aren't taught about regulators, glad I paid for all that training.
I buy my own regulators and install them into the alternator. I had a Dixie rebuilt alt and it came with a sheet showing a good test, but the regulator failed on me. When i looked at the regulator, it looked old and had a dent on the fins.
Trust the red battery light in the dash, if it ever glows, first replace the battery and regulator and you will be good to go.
If you read my posts, you will note a battery may test good, I was with the technician and watched the tests - all good, and it took out a second alternator (regulator) - they had 5 technicians doing the tests from the Ford book, took them 2 hours to decide it was the alternator. The noob technicians aren't taught about regulators, glad I paid for all that training.
I buy my own regulators and install them into the alternator. I had a Dixie rebuilt alt and it came with a sheet showing a good test, but the regulator failed on me. When i looked at the regulator, it looked old and had a dent on the fins.
Trust the red battery light in the dash, if it ever glows, first replace the battery and regulator and you will be good to go.
So an bad alternator can cause the check steering assist warning to come on ?
I am so pissed right now....I just spent $500+ on changing the rack and pinion because I was getting this warning. It haven't gave the "check steering assist" warning since I replaced the rack and pinion two days ago, but as I was driving home tonight the warning came on again and steering was hard as hell........what is the damn problem jeez.........: (
I am so pissed right now....I just spent $500+ on changing the rack and pinion because I was getting this warning. It haven't gave the "check steering assist" warning since I replaced the rack and pinion two days ago, but as I was driving home tonight the warning came on again and steering was hard as hell........what is the damn problem jeez.........: (
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
My wife noticed a little while ago the check steering assist message was coming up and I bet it was 2 or 3 months before my alternator died on me 3 weeks ago. She also noticed the red battery light would come on if she revved too high. I think that these messages could be considered the warning sign the alternator is going.
Don't let a Ford technician tell you it is the EEC causing the problem. I looked at the charging circuit and the regulator controls everything, not the engine computer. Plus the shop manual clearly states the regulator controls the charging circuit.
Of the 5 replacement alternators I purchased, 4 were bad. If I could find one, I would buy a Ford factory one instead of remanufactured. I fixed two of them by replacing the regulator myself.
The other thing I noticed is even after putting new alternator and regulator in this last time, 6000 rpm brings on the red batery light, so this one won't last long either. I am buying Champion alternators as they have a 3 year warranty.
Don't let a Ford technician tell you it is the EEC causing the problem. I looked at the charging circuit and the regulator controls everything, not the engine computer. Plus the shop manual clearly states the regulator controls the charging circuit.
Of the 5 replacement alternators I purchased, 4 were bad. If I could find one, I would buy a Ford factory one instead of remanufactured. I fixed two of them by replacing the regulator myself.
The other thing I noticed is even after putting new alternator and regulator in this last time, 6000 rpm brings on the red batery light, so this one won't last long either. I am buying Champion alternators as they have a 3 year warranty.
bradyelich
Well-Known LVC Member
Yes, the steering gets hard, then my Wife turned off the car and started back up and message went away. This was happening off and on during the winter.
I did find a broken ground strap going to the firewall and I fixed it.
I did find a broken ground strap going to the firewall and I fixed it.
gdubya
LVC Member
It does sound strange, but I also had the check power assist message, and hard steering problem. Stopped car, restarted and it seemed fine. Next day, wouldn't start and was diagnosed with bad alternator (only putting out 70amps) and since the alternator was replaced I have not had the message again, or the starting issues (even at -20F and kept outside) that plagued me before.