Clicking and binding sound passenger side front end

xford

xford

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I have an odd clicking sound from the passenger side front and can only hear it when backing up or parking at low speed esp. while turning wheel lock to lock. I have had Stance coil-overs for more than a year, however, the noise just started recently so I am not sure I can correlate- I also have recently installed new front wheel hubs, Moog Front Stabilizer Bar end links, and Jag S type R complete brake set but the noise started months after these adds. A local shop tightened some sub-frame bolts but could otherwise could not find the cause. Any idea's would be appreciated.

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Have you checked your inner fenders and plastic parts at each wheel? don-ohio
 
... seems like a ball joint issue... can you jack the front and duplicate by hand? (pushing wheel left and right?)
 
They should be able to locate it. Check that brake hardware is tight,not wobbly or caliper stuck. don-ohio :)^)
 
I was almost interested in this thread as I myself have a similar clicking noise but mine ordinates under the condition when I shut off the 04 LSE while leaving the AUTO setting enabled on the climate controls, then on restart, the AUTO is on immediately and I hear something clanking away for a few seconds under the hood, front left passenger side. When it's colder out. Seems like something coming off the pulleys and belt area. Suspect something A/C related, haven't had a chance to dig into it just yet, just know that if I turn climate controls to OFF on ignition restart it does not make the under hood noise. Let it warm up a couple minutes then enable AUTO climate and no noise.

Not same clicking sound as yours xFord but good luck resolving none-the-less. Isn't it always something with these LS'es !?!?! LOL


GLWR
 
BigRigLS said:
front left passenger side.
Click to expand...

is that supposed to be near the center of the engine?

(from right to left) the fuse box is in the front right of pass side, the DCCV is the front left passenger side, the radiator is the dead center, the AC compressor is front right of the drivers side, and the air box is the front left of the drivers side. :rolleyes:
 
Doh! got me!

I was making reference from standing directly in front of the engine ... noise coming from left passenger side.
 
rookie? LOL, ok stop teasing me now, I can feel my heart rate go up slightly again.
Besides, stand directly in front of the engine and where is #1 cylinder located. Ha! That's right, I mean ... Left, front left passenger side. :p
 
Left or right is dependent upon the observer's location, but nobody can mistake driver/passenger unless you get Britain and a few other countries that drive on the wrong side of the road involved. This is why I normally say driver side or passenger side, it doesn't matter what direction you're facing on the car this way.
 
Replaced the Passenger side upper and lower control arms and ball joint - problem solved - my guess is the bad ball joint caused the noises but replaced all of it just to be safe - about $300 in parts
 
You've jogged me memory,ol son! I now remember the ol Grand Marquis clicking when it had metal to metal upper A-frame bushings(insulator gone).
Tis good to refresh the memory and THANKS for posting the fix for your problem,xford! don-ohio :)^)
 
xford said:
Replaced the Passenger side upper and lower control arms and ball joint - problem solved - my guess is the bad ball joint caused the noises but replaced all of it just to be safe - about $300 in parts
Click to expand...

When you say replaced all, did you replace the driver side as well? Maybe I'm funny but I like replacing axles at a time, not wheels at a time, IE when I replace a part on the passenger side I replace the corresponding part on the driver side, and vice versa. Cars handle funny to me when only one corner is replaced as opposed to all front or all rear.
 
I usually do the same,Telco. I don't always do it on brake rotors though. If the opposite one looks newish and no grooves,etc.,I just replace the one bad one. don-ohio :)^)
Telco said:
When you say replaced all, did you replace the driver side as well? Maybe I'm funny but I like replacing axles at a time, not wheels at a time, IE when I replace a part on the passenger side I replace the corresponding part on the driver side, and vice versa. Cars handle funny to me when only one corner is replaced as opposed to all front or all rear.
Click to expand...
 
Telco said:
When you say replaced all, did you replace the driver side as well? Maybe I'm funny but I like replacing axles at a time, not wheels at a time, IE when I replace a part on the passenger side I replace the corresponding part on the driver side, and vice versa. Cars handle funny to me when only one corner is replaced as opposed to all front or all rear.
Click to expand...
I just did the passenger side while the drivers side was done years ago so its also not original. In an ideal world I agree it best to do both at the same time but it just came down to how much $ I want to put into the car. Overall its been a great value for the enjoyment I have gotten out of it. So far I don't notice any handling changes and new tires are on the way (BF Goodrich G-Force Comp 2 A/S XL's 245x35x20) that will include a fresh alignment- additionally I can play with the dampening settings on my Stance Coilovers if any fine tuning is needed. It will be interesting to see if these updates take care of the slight shimmy/feedback thru the steering wheel I have experienced from 60-70 mph, on undulating road surfaces, in the last year or so (only experienced this a year or two post Stance installation and never with Eibach lowering springs - could not be resolved w/ balancing including road force).
 
You might put the new one on,if you only paid 25 bucks for it,and have a problem you wouldn't otherwise have. Just a thought. don-ohio :)^)
 
Good for you,but I have. These parts at discount stores are NOT getting more dependable IMO. The last two out of three thermostats I bought at Auto Zone failed(I'm pretty well crossing them off my list for certain parts). Yes,that includes the Lincoln LS thermostat I bought from them. I had to get Ford to order me one.
I'm just saying that on MY car or truck, if the opposite rotor from the bad one looks really good and hasn't warped or scored, I won't always replace the opposite one when I put on new pads. don-ohio :)^)
 
I always replace brake parts by axle, and replace rotors when new pads go on. I'm too hard on brakes to try running with worn, or even worse, turned rotors. Every time I've tried to cut corners on rotors I'm right back in there again a month or two later replacing them so I just don't bother.

I'm surprised you don't leave the caliper bleed screws open a bit, Don. No pressure on the calipers would keep them from wearing out and you'd not have to worry about blowing out any flexlines. :p
 
II'm surprised you don't leave the caliper bleed screws open a bit, Don. No pressure on the calipers would keep them from wearing out and you'd not have to worry about blowing out any flexlines


I tried that,Telco...........saved the hoses but wrecked the car.LOL! don-ohio :)^P
 
It should be fine if you keep topping it off. It's like those cars that don't need oil changes because they burn a quart of oil every 1000 miles
 
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