Clock spring help (pics)

SilverLS

SilverLS

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OK I got my part from Bill at team ford talk about fast shipping .....
here is the question......I dont know what this box thing is, Do I need to change it also or is the one I have ok.....Where is in (I didnt see it when I was checking it out last year) ......If someone could chime in....I wanna do this tomorrow night after school....

clockspring 002.jpg


clockspring 004.jpg


clockspring 001.jpg
 
I haven't been following your issues... what did you order and what was the problem with your car... briefly.
 
I ordered a clockspring from team ford.....I ordered it because 1 air bag light is on (lou posted saying it was prob a clockspring) 2) my cruise control is not working anymore (after it went all screwy changing all the button order arounds) and I had it at the dealership and they told me samething....
 
yes - it's all one piece.

that box is on the bottom unside of the steer column - you can swap it int 5mins.
 
OK, looks like the clockspring sits in between the airbag and the multifunction switch #3 in the drawing:

KD00570.gif


My guess would be that the other module would be located on the underside of the steering column or perhaps on the on the opposite side of the multifunction switch, more towards the dash... once you get the shroud off, you should be able to trace the harness from the clockspring to the other module and remove it as well. That's probably what's screwing with your cruise functions as well.
 
I figured I needed to get back in there I dont have to get up early tomorrow so Im gonna do it tonight.....Should take about an hour at most right.....
 
here is a previous post i found by quik
ep - I've replaced mine once.

working around the airbag isn't that bad - just make sure there is no power.


a replacement clockspring is about $100 and takes about 30mins to replace.

to replace the clockspring:
- disconnect the battery and let sit for 10mins
- remove the airbag by removing the two bolts (one on each side) of the steering wheel (under a plastic plug), then electrically disconnect the airbag
- remove the horn trigger by removing the four hex bolts
- unplug the radio/airbag connector
- remove the steering wheel by removing the torx bolt and you'll need a 2-prong wheel puller to pry it off the steering column
- remove the plastic steering column covers

- the rest is fairly straigh forward - a couple of screw to remove the clockspring and some tough to reach connectors
 
ok so I started and found out that I dont have my Torques any more So Ill have to get one tomorrow morning....also To use the puller I need to screw the bolt into two of the four hole where the horn trigger was?? The tool I rented didnt have small enough bolts to thread in there....Am I doing it right...I dont see anywhere else to put them so .....If someone could let me know before I make my self look dumb at discount auto tomrrow it would be nice.....
 
the hub puller I have simply 'hooks' the two fingers to the back-side of the steering wheel (top and bottom) and the center whine goes into the screww hole where the torax came out. you screw it down, which pushes the fingers up and pulls the wheel off the hub.
 
got it all done and Now Here is another problem I was not thinking it through and I pulled the multi switch out with the clockspring....and I was putting it all back together and I broke the blinker side.....I was wondering if you know where the relay for the bliker is so I dont have to listen to in click like crazy until I get the switch....I pulled the fuese so the light isnt on but....
 
Is that torx just the common one or is it the one with the little prong sticking up in the middle(I think they call it a keyed torx?). I gotta do this soon and want to have all the tools beofre i go tearing into it. Also how long did it take u silver. I know quick is always tinkering with his car so i figured it would take me longer than he did it in.

Thanks
 
its a basic torx.... I got a wheel puller but it was the wrong kind so I just pulled really hard and it popped of......DONT DONT DONT think you need to unscrew the clock spring its all clips I did not see this and I took the combo switch apart and screwed my self out of another 85 dollars...... its took about an hour or so to get it all of an apart and about 20 min to get it back together and cleaned up.....Its really not hard just remember what you take of and in what order....and it helps to remove all the plastic under the dash and loose the metal braces to get that box out.....If you need more pics I have them
 
Okay...I have an airbag light...how do I know if it is the clockspring? Are there any troubleshooting tricks or should I take it to have the code read?
 
Watch the airbag light flash when you first start the car - it normally comes on then 3 seconds later (after passing all the tests) turns off. If it finds a problem with the test it will flash a 2 digit code:

"When the ignition is cycled (turned off and then on), the air bag indicator will remain lit for six seconds and then go out. If an SRS fault exists, the air bag indicator will then flash the two-digit LFC associated with that fault. The air bag indicator will flash the LFC five times, then remain illuminated for the rest of the key cycle. The RCM will also communicate the current and historical DTCs through the data link connector (DLC), using the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester. If the air bag indicator does not function, and the system detects a fault condition, the RCM will signal the instrument cluster to activate an audible chime. The chime is a series of five sets of five tone bursts. If the chime is heard, the SRS and the air bag indicator require repair.
LFCs are prioritized. If two or more faults occur at the same time, the fault having the highest priority will be displayed first. After that fault has been corrected, the next highest priority fault will be displayed. "


For example a flash of 3 pause 6 means:
DTC:B1995 LFC:36 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Resistance Low

Post your code and I'll try to help.
 
I was only giving an example. BTW - 32 is not definately the clockspring - simply means that the circuit to the airbag is broken.
 
Yeah Lou...it flashes a 3-2. I posted a thread about this earlier but it sounded like people were saying that code didn't exist.
 
DTC:B1932 LFC:32 Driver Air Bag Circuit Resistance High

means the circuit to the airbag is broken - most likely the clockspring. A sure tell sign is if your steering wheel controls are also acting goofy..... as they go through the same ribbon cable in the clockspring that wears out.
 
Nope...SW controls work perfectly. Can I sic a mulitmeter on it somewhere? I've got no problem shooting wires. If I can fix avionics this shouldn't be too hard :shifty:
 
FreeFaller said:
Nope...SW controls work perfectly. Can I sic a mulitmeter on it somewhere? I've got no problem shooting wires. If I can fix avionics this shouldn't be too hard :shifty:
Click to expand...

you can - just make sure to take it all apart and get the airbag disconnected before putting any juice on the wires....
 
Yeah, trying to ohm out a connected airbag would probably be a bad idea.

You don't happen to know where I can get a wiring diagram do you? Cause unless I know where all the opens and shorts are supposed to be I'll be totally lost.
 
PM80 said:
The code for the clock spring is 32 not 36
Click to expand...

This is a comment that I get from many that are uneducated as to the processes of an automotive computer system. I hear it all the time..."just pull the code and replace what it says is bad". Well, it almost NEVER works like that. What a DTC does is tell you that a certain parameter of a certain system has fallen outside the parameters set by the manufacturer when they programmed the ECM. For example, if you get a code showing an O2 sensor is lean, this hardly means the O2 sensor is bad...as is common thought. In fact, the O2 sensor may be working perfectly. You could have a vacuum leak, dirty injectors, plugged fuel filter, failing pump, lot of things...including a bad O2 sensor. It is up to YOU to diagnose the problem and find out what the cause is. That is why a good tech is invaluable and makes a ton of money...and why a bad tech has such a hard time and gives many a bad rep.
 
2001LS8Sport said:
This is a comment that I get from many that are uneducated as to the processes of an automotive computer system. I hear it all the time..."just pull the code and replace what it says is bad". Well, it almost NEVER works like that. What a DTC does is tell you that a certain parameter of a certain system has fallen outside the parameters set by the manufacturer when they programmed the ECM.
Click to expand...

We call it "Swaptronics" in the Air Force. Don't shoot wires...just keep swapping components till the fault dissapears. :(
 
FreeFaller said:
We call it "Swaptronics" in the Air Force. Don't shoot wires...just keep swapping components till the fault dissapears. :(
Click to expand...

LOL Sad, but true. Or how about pull the bulb and "pencil whip" it!!
 
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