Color sanding The Hotrod

B

broncobra

LVC Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
Langhorne
Decided to remove the orange peel from the Lincoln. The op on the LS is not nearly as bad as the other Fords I have owned but I cant stand any. I started about a week ago, working a few hours a day when I can with maybe 26 hours total so far. I have the quarter and 2 drivers side doors complete (still need to be jeweled, wax and sealed but that will all happen to the whole car at once). Driver's fender is sanded but not polished, so the drivers side is almost done.

Here is before the color sanding. Paint is pretty clear but the reflection is slightly distorted.

090-1.jpg


Fender sanded down, looks scary doesn't it?

005-1.jpg


Door is nearly done, it will be a little deeper and darker when the final jeweling is done and then wax and sealed.

004-1.jpg


001.jpg


Crystal clear reflection when the clear is flat.

003.jpg


Just realized I dont have any pictures of the other door and quarter. Should be able to get some more hours in tomorrow and some better pictures. Hopefully I should be done in 2 more weeks, then I may drive it again.
 
I'm confused. I see the fender taped and sanded, but you're talking about the door?
 
I color sanded my ls a year or two ago. The gf went on vacation for a weeks I took that time and removed most of the orange peel from my paint.

What ptg are you using? What compounds/polishes?
 
Looks good! I think my paint is so bad, i'd be willing to try this.

What is your process?
 
De-marko said:
What is your process?
Click to expand...

I will tell you it's a really f*cking time consuming process. It took me 50 or so hours to do mine. The only reason I did it was because I already have so many miles. I would not do it to a normal DD you expect to have for a long time. Sand with 2000, then 2500. Then compound. Then clean up the compounding with multiple polishing steps. Then jewel/burnish, if desired. Then seal/wax. Then call a masseuse. Because you use muscles you never normally use while polishing.
 
Not using a PTG. I really should but dont find them absolutely necessary. Im an Optimum fan. I have always loved the polish II and recently moved from 3m's Perfect-It 3000 compound to Optimum's compound II. Optimum's runs smoother and finishes finer. On this project, Im sanding 2000 grit, then 2500, and then 3000 grit. Not neccesary but the 3000 starts to bring a shine back and compounds out real easy and I always try to avoid wool pads. Im compounding with LC's white polishing pad to remove the sanding, then Optimums Polish II with a LC white pad and again with a LC grey pad. Then Menzerna Final Polish with a LC grey pad and then 3m's Ultrafina with a LC blue pad. Jeweling will be done with Menzerna's sf 4500 or also known as PO85RD with a LC crimson pad. Wax is Pinnacle Sovern paste and then sealed with Klasse or maybe Collinite 845. I should be over 100 hours when im all done.
 
broncobra said:
Not using a PTG. I really should but dont find them absolutely necessary. Im an Optimum fan. I have always loved the polish II and recently moved from 3m's Perfect-It 3000 compound to Optimum's compound II. Optimum's runs smoother and finishes finer. On this project, Im sanding 2000 grit, then 2500, and then 3000 grit. Not neccesary but the 3000 starts to bring a shine back and compounds out real easy and I always try to avoid wool pads. Im compounding with LC's white polishing pad to remove the sanding, then Optimums Polish II with a LC white pad and again with a LC grey pad. Then Menzerna Final Polish with a LC grey pad and then 3m's Ultrafina with a LC blue pad. Jeweling will be done with Menzerna's sf 4500 or also known as PO85RD with a LC crimson pad. Wax is Pinnacle Sovern paste and then sealed with Klasse or maybe Collinite 845. I should be over 100 hours when im all done.
Click to expand...

Very nice. I haven't personally tried Optimum's polishes yet, though their products as a whole are top-notch. LOVE me some Powerclean, and their car shampoo. I have a bunch of Menzerna to work through first, then I may give Opt a shot.

3000 must bring back some shine if you're able to remove sanding marks with an LC white pad! If you haven't yet, give buff n shine pads a try. I'm really liking their yellow pads. (more cut than LC white, actually similar to LC orange, but much softer foam, and easier to work with)

FYI, I would layer the Souveran over the top of the 845 or the Klasse. I always try to put the most durable protection down first, and I never layer a sealant over the top of a nuba.

A couple of my favorite nubas right now are Supernatural and Zymol Ital. Though one of the only LSP's I've personally seen enhance a perfectly jeweled finish more is Vintage. Too much $ for me to buy a pot though.
 
Here's a couple afters of when I did mine. I took it real easy on the door panels under the body moulding. ultra smooth paint + rocks = huge cracks in paint.

Can't remember which panel this was, but you can see the absence of OP:

IMG_5676.jpg


IMG_5666.jpg


IMG_5767.jpg


IMG_5841.jpg


IMG_5865.jpg


IMG_6118.jpg
 
pektel said:
I will tell you it's a really f*cking time consuming process. It took me 50 or so hours to do mine. The only reason I did it was because I already have so many miles. I would not do it to a normal DD you expect to have for a long time. Sand with 2000, then 2500. Then compound. Then clean up the compounding with multiple polishing steps. Then jewel/burnish, if desired. Then seal/wax. Then call a masseuse. Because you use muscles you never normally use while polishing.
Click to expand...

Eh...forget that lol.

broncobra said:
Not using a PTG. I really should but dont find them absolutely necessary. Im an Optimum fan. I have always loved the polish II and recently moved from 3m's Perfect-It 3000 compound to Optimum's compound II. Optimum's runs smoother and finishes finer. On this project, Im sanding 2000 grit, then 2500, and then 3000 grit. Not neccesary but the 3000 starts to bring a shine back and compounds out real easy and I always try to avoid wool pads. Im compounding with LC's white polishing pad to remove the sanding, then Optimums Polish II with a LC white pad and again with a LC grey pad. Then Menzerna Final Polish with a LC grey pad and then 3m's Ultrafina with a LC blue pad. Jeweling will be done with Menzerna's sf 4500 or also known as PO85RD with a LC crimson pad. Wax is Pinnacle Sovern paste and then sealed with Klasse or maybe Collinite 845. I should be over 100 hours when im all done.
Click to expand...

Double forget that! :lol:

On second thought my car is not that bad. :p

Pektel, your paint looks smooth!
 
Nice work! I want to buy a couple more pads, i'll give them a try and my souveran is almost gone. Was going to buy another can but if that supernatural is the around the same in cost, i'll give it a try. Good call on the sealant before nuba; i tend to only use nuba, all the sealants i have ever used streak on me or haze up and hour or so later. I wash and wax atleast one of my cars once a week so each is waxed atleast every other week, wax has always been quicker and easier but with the souveran at $100 a jar, I deal with klasse or 845 every once and a while to make the nuba last. I was able to get the fender polished up today.
002-2.jpg


007-2.jpg


003-1.jpg


004-2.jpg


010-2.jpg


The very bottom of the fender and doors have not been sanded, no way i'm going that low without a lift.
 
NYC LS8 said:
What he said.

Your car looks damn clean as it was. I woulda left it. lol
Click to expand...

Thanks! Car was pretty rough when I bought it 6 months ago but had nothing i couldnt correct. The driver's side was actually lightly keyed down the entire side but I corrected that with my initial polishing. I spent about 10 -12 hours bringing up the paint 6 months ago and it finished great, very happy with the result on a 7 year old car with 150k! The project to just to remove the factory orange peel and take the paint from looking new to showcar quality for personal satisfaction. Perfectly flat clear on a flat black car is jaw dropping in person.
 
Looksgreat, man. The supernatural ran me about 160, but that was a while ago. No idea what it goes for now. My pot of it is signed by Dom and pj (owners of dodo juice). I love it, but is a tad finicky. Got to apply super thin, or else it can haze up after it sits in the sun. It's just pure product. No scents/fillers. And the beading is INCREDIBLE.

In case you couldn't tell by now, I'm a detailer in my free time lol.
 
Those panels look awesome.

I swear my driver's side is ruined from the sprinkler system. Non-treated well water hits it pretty much nightly.

Hard water spots are stained into the clear it feels like...

Also my driver's side front wheel has the same spots... So depressing.
 
That looks great, very jealous!

Your ls looks so clean too pektel, does it still look that clear?

Andrizzle, have you tried clay bar on it? If it's getting water every night, build some kind of shield to put next to the doors, something that could stand next to the door all night and just put it away in the morning.
 
Haha, nope I haven't tried clay yet... I honestly kind of gave up - and the fact my LS is going to be wrapped in 7 months is even less incentive to care. But that is a good idea, today I was washing it and the sprinklers came on and the wind was blowing one right into my car. So I got mad and placed a bucket over it upside down until they went off, haha.

(My neighborhood has automatic sprinklers that come on, on timer)


I really don't care about the paint as much as I do my wheel having the same hard water spots. I wonder if I can clay a wheel.... Will probably be very annoying.
 
You can clay any glass or painted surface.

Alax, the paint is still that smooth. But when my car was at the shop (same one that broke my bumper) they thought it would be a good idea to take it to the car wash. Now I have swirls everywhere again. I'll fix them soon. I was thinking maybe doing a panel or 2 a day.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 192 (members: 1, guests: 191)
Back
Top