Couple months without a problem, I knew that was a good stretch.. lol (Coil time?)

SoulSoak

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Hey fellas, been a while since I've checked in. Anyhow.. I start my car up after punching out at work ('03 LS8), and I thought Michigan didn't have earthquakes.. Or atleast none during my 25 years here. So yeah.. My car was shaking at idle (I thought.. Hmm maybe the colder weather?). I proceeded to put it in drive and once I was in gear it was like a hesitating/sputtering throttle. It is a very noticeable shake at low rpm, less harsh at higher rpm (2500-3000, didn't go higher than that). I got it home. It's a 2 mile drive home. I noticed the yellow engine light was blinking for a short period of time (maybe 20seconds?). However I never seen any codes in my message center.

Now I've read here and there about our cars chomping on coils, but I can't remember reading about coil failures/missing without getting "PXXXX" codes?

Anyhow, the symptoms I'm experiencing with my car lead me to believe it's time to put in all new cop's. But I figured I'd ask quick before I order the parts. Also, if you agree that it's likely my coils, could you please direct me to the correct/recommended replacement?

Some relevant info.. 99.8k miles (my babys almost at 100k sadface), I recently did a cooling System overhaul (August, all plastics/piping replaced), and I really baby the car. Premium gas only, and add octane booster.

I appreciate your time and help, just looking for some advice and input before I order parts. Thanks and God Bless.

Soak
 
1. Your message center won't say anything about engine problems or OBDII codes. It's not supposed to. It's not able to.
2. Did you check for codes with and OBD-II CAN compatible scanner. In your case, since the light had been flashing, there should have been one or more codes.
3. As has been repeatedly reported, many times coils become marginal instead of failing completely. Often, they do not trigger any codes.
4. Replace all coils and plugs. Use OEM coils (Motorcraft). Use NGK plugs (one of the OEM brands). Be sure to set the gap to 1mm
 
1. Your message center won't say anything about engine problems or OBDII codes. It's not supposed to. It's not able to.
2. Did you check for codes with and OBD-II CAN compatible scanner. In your case, since the light had been flashing, there should have been one or more codes.
3. As has been repeatedly reported, many times coils become marginal instead of failing completely. Often, they do not trigger any codes.
4. Replace all coils and plugs. Use OEM coils (Motorcraft). Use NGK plugs (one of the OEM brands). Be sure to set the gap to 1mm

Okay, ordering the ngk plugs and motorcraft coils. Thank you for the fast response and help Joe. Just this conveniently had to occur when the snow falls lol.
 
Though I'm aware it's not the cheapest, Fordpartsgiant has the coil assy for $60/each. Boots for $7.68/each. And spark plugs for $4.98 each. Looks like I'm around $550sh.. But I'll do some more shopping.

Also noticed they have ignition coil cover for about $18. Is that the plastic piece over the valve cover? Or is that an individual coil assy cover..? Thanks
 
lsemex037322293 said:
whats the part# for ngk spark plugs?

PNC # 12405
P/N # **SP-32F-SM

That's the fordpartsgiant numbers for their plugs. I'd assume they are OEM, but I don't know for certain if that's what you're looking For.
 
is there any big difference between those three besides the price. BKR5EGP $2.48, FR5AP-11E $5.76 and IFR5E-11 $9.77.
 
is there any big difference between those three besides the price. BKR5EGP $2.48, FR5AP-11E $5.76 and IFR5E-11 $9.77.

The more expensive ones are supposed to be better. The BKR5EGP is the factory one. It easily goes 100K miles, and I wouldn't want a plug to stay in longer than that, even if the coils would last that long.
 
Do I need to put new valve cover gaskets on or no? I was under the impression that the actual valve covers remain intact, and that I only remove a plastic coil cover that is part of the valve cover.
 
Do I need to put new valve cover gaskets on or no? I was under the impression that the actual valve covers remain intact, and that I only remove a plastic coil cover that is part of the valve cover.

Correct......
 
I just experienced the same problem on the way home from work a few weeks ago. Scared me to death. My car has high mileage and I thought I had a total loss of compression and would need a new engine.

I was never so happy to replace 2 coil packs and 8 plugs. Better than a engine. Running stronger than ever now. And my failure happen out of the bule with no codes or forewarning either.
 
I don't need to put new valve cover gaskets in?

Not unless they're leaking. That's a MUCH bigger job than the coils/plugs. I just did the plugs (coils would add negligible time) last Sat. morning in under an hour and a half. It's MUCH, MUCH easier with a 7mm swivel socket!
 
I don't need to put new valve cover gaskets in?

No. You will only be taking the coil covers off and back on. That said, if you find noticeable oil in any of the plug wells you will need to replace the valve cover gaskets.
 
With almost 100K on the original coils you are doing better than average.
 
Purchasing Motorcraft coils and plugs from Atrom tonight. Hope to have my baby fixed and running strong here soon. I'll update later. Thanks everyone and God bless.
 
Coils and plugs arrived(thanks Atrom), going to install them today and change my oil. Planning on Mobil 1 5w30 and a Mobil 1 or K&N filter. One question though, what's the required torque for the spark plugs? Normally I've always snugged the plugs I've installed on previous cars but I figure I'd do this Lincoln by the book. Thanks guys and God Bless.
 
Coils and plugs arrived(thanks Atrom), going to install them today and change my oil. Planning on Mobil 1 5w30 and a Mobil 1 or K&N filter. One question though, what's the required torque for the spark plugs? Normally I've always snugged the plugs I've installed on previous cars but I figure I'd do this Lincoln by the book. Thanks guys and God Bless.

FYI, This car recommends 5w20, not 5w30 for oil. It can be difficult to find sometimes, but according to the oil fill cap, 5w20 is what is recommended, although I have read on this forum that 0w20 is even better. As far as torque for the spark plugs, according to this: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/SparkPlugV8/

The torque for plugs is 26 Nm or 19 lb-ft.

Good luck
 
Coils and plugs arrived(thanks Atrom), going to install them today and change my oil. Planning on Mobil 1 5w30 and a Mobil 1 or K&N filter. One question though, what's the required torque for the spark plugs? Normally I've always snugged the plugs I've installed on previous cars but I figure I'd do this Lincoln by the book. Thanks guys and God Bless.

Why not use the required (see owner's manual) 5W-20 or 0W-20? You have variable valve timing. I don't know how much changes in oil pressure (from using a different weight oil) will bother it.

20 lb-ft (27 Nm) on the plugs. Make sure the gap is 1mm.
 
I apologize that was actually a typo. I meant 5w20. Okay so 20ft lbs. Thank you everyone, hopefully all goes well when I get out of work.
 

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