Crush nut on rear knuckle/half shaft.

shagdrum

shagdrum

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From what I read the recommending torque is something like 250 ft-lbs. My Torque wrench is sorely outmatch as it maxes out around 150.

Can this be done without an impact wrench?
 
You do not want to use an impact. Torque to the max with your wrench. Then get a break over bar and 3 to 4 feet of cheater pipe and give it all you got. That's how I did mine and mine wrench goes to 200 ft lbs.
 
You can rent a torque wrench from Autozone, that has a high enough setting for you.
 
Why do you not want to use an impact wrench?
 
How crucial is it to get to 250 ft-lbs? I used a breaker bare with a cheater pipe that was about four foot long and went as far as I could, but I doubt that I got it to 250 lbs.
 
you would be surprised how easy it is to hit 250ftlbs with a breaker bar and 4' of pipe. and you dont use an impact wrench unless u like swapping hubs/bearings every 6-12 months maybe less.
 
deadmark8 said:
you would be surprised how easy it is to hit 250ftlbs with a breaker bar and 4' of pipe. and you dont use an impact wrench unless u like swapping hubs/bearings every 6-12 months maybe less.
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WOW than I am going to have a few hundred people come back with bad bearings. I call BS. Maybe if you impact is weak as hell and not getting the torque high enough. The preload is set in these sealed bearing, you technically cannot get them too tight, but too loose will unload the preload and make noise and eventually ruin the bearing. Also it is not recommended to use a cheater bar/pipe on a torque wrench you will ruin its accuracy. only use a ratchet or breaker bar, and get it freakin tight.
 
LMAO on the impact. Thats how I do ALL my half shaft bolts. NEVER once in 13 years had a bad wheel bearing happen from it.
 
I remove them with a gun, but use a torque wrench to install them.

From the factory shop manual:

CAUTION: Power tools must not be used to tighten the rear axle wheel hub retainer , or rear wheel bearing damage will result.

Since the rear wheel bearing (1225) cannot be adjusted, the rear axle wheel hub retainer must not be backed off after reaching the required torque during installation
 
You can use a cheaterbar/pipe on a torque wrench and still have it accurate, you just need to calculate for the extra length and adjust it accordingly...
 
Using a cheater bar to exceed the capacity of a torque wrench sounds like a good way to ruin it.
 
You'd still need to use it within it's limits, I was correcting the info that said it's not recommended as it will affect accuracy which is false ;)
 
Lolz - if somebody needs a 'cheater bar' to reach a regular torque wrench's maximum torque capacity, then they need to get to the gym and/or eat spinach! :lol:
 
Use the impact. I agree not with the service manual. The dealer that knows it all also put the fuel filter in th fenderwell and to boot have you checked you'r air filter lately? The dealer boys don't know it all and I would like to meet the mechanic at the ford dealer using the torque wrench on hub bearins.
 
93' Blue on blue said:
Lolz - if somebody needs a 'cheater bar' to reach a torque wrench's maximum torque capacity, then they need to get to the gym and/or eat spinach! :lol:
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You do know how high some torque wrenchs go and how big some are right?
There are all sorts of calculations that are useful with torque wrenches to figure for different extensions, offset/clawfoot sockets etc etc...
 
When I went to a cheater bar, I switched out the Torque wrench for a breaker bar...
 
How is a solid piece of metal, with two other pieces of solid metal going to be damaged from some impacting?
 
Icarus said:
You do know how high some torque wrenchs go and how big some are right?
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There you go, added the word 'regular' to my previous post. :)

Oh, I'm sure there are all kinds of wrenches for sorts of applications. Biggest I've used is only 1000ft/lbs, which was achievable without any kind of added bar, due to it's overall length.

What I'm talking about is the standard type wrenches that we'd likely use for things like wheel bearings - if you have a wrench rated for 300ft/lbs, then you aren't going to need a 'cheater' bar on it unless you're weak.
 
jt351 said:
WOW than I am going to have a few hundred people come back with bad bearings.
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ONEBADMK8 said:
LMAO on the impact. Thats how I do ALL my half shaft bolts. NEVER once in 13 years had a bad wheel bearing happen from it.
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Mrs.1Bad4.6L said:
I would like to meet the mechanic at the ford dealer using the torque wrench on hub bearings.
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kustomizingkid said:
How is a solid piece of metal, with two other pieces of solid metal going to be damaged from some impacting?
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ok so like plus 5 lol i never did, 12 years ford dealer experience, never had one comeback yet, just dont have a big gun and be stupid about it.
 
'93, I've been wording my posts wrong I think. Using different extensions/offset/crowfoot sockets/bars etc and calculations for different positioning/awkward spots etc, not for added torque if that makes more sense. I'm not explaining this well am I, lol... ;)
 
I understand you like crystal. You are referring to things such as the new tool from snap-on for the head bolts on Ford trucks. An impact will not hurt anything. Do YOU honestly think in the factory they have a man with a torque wrench and not a gun set to a specified torque?
 
I just did rear wheel bearings ins a audi A4 awd similar setup like a mark 8 but used Bolts that go to axle instead of a nut, The torque on it was 85ftlbs and turn 1/2 turn, 180 degrees, that was f'ing tight, I had to use a 5ft long pipe to get it there, kinda real tight.
 
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