Damn Misfire

Nitrobasher

Nitrobasher

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My car runs great when its cool, all 8 cylinders are firing, everything works good.

But when my car works its way up to running temps, Cylinder number 2 starts misfiring, and the check engine light is blinking.

I replaced the coilpack, on the cylinder and dont think that that is the problem.

A mechanic told me that it may be the EGR valve, or fuel injector or something like taht.

I did a search and could only find little bits of information.

I recently replaced my fuel pump with a 255lph walbro cobra pump if that is any help.

I was thinkin about running a bottle of seafoam through the injectors to see if that helps. LMK

thanks
 
check the injectors i had a cutlass that did the same thing
 
I guess checkin the injectors is just pullin em out and makin sure there is flow through em? Never done it before
 
Nitrobasher said:
wow this forum has really gone down hill. i need a mustang
Click to expand...

??? If tech support is better on a Mustang site post your prob there...same motor family.

If the boot is the problem then the new coil will keep the same problem and you need to change the boot. I don't think you can really see if a injector is bad by looking at it. If you suspect it is a problem switch it with a different cylinder and see if the misfire moves.
 
well im in the middle of replacing the EGR valve, and i can not get the tube coming out of the back of the valve to come loose, no matter what. is there some sort of trick? I sprayed it down with pb blaster but nothing.
 
if your talking about the 1 1/6" nut on the steel egr tube. well dont torch it off but you can heat it up to break the rust free.
or you could just grow a pair sally!! lol j/k
 
ok so I got the new EGR valve on. Started up fine, drove around the block. and I lost a cylinder. This time I didnt get a CE light though, just a rough idle, lack of poewr, and of course the noise.

How do you check fuel pressure? I was warned about the 255lph pump, would that cause this?
 
huh? you replaced the egr valve to fix a miss? quick trick, swap the coil (and boot) with cyl #1, and swap plugs with cly #3 clear the codes re-drive the car and see where the miss goes, if it stays there, check for power at the COP and the ground signal (while running) use a noid light to check for injector signal, poss swap the injector to another hole, if the miss stays there then it is a mechanical prob
 
Nitrobasher said:
ok so I got the new EGR valve on. Started up fine, drove around the block. and I lost a cylinder. This time I didnt get a CE light though, just a rough idle, lack of poewr, and of course the noise.

How do you check fuel pressure? I was warned about the 255lph pump, would that cause this?
Click to expand...

Lots of people run the 255 without issue. I think it can kill the stock regulator though.
 
Would the Fuel Pressure regulater cause this type of problem?

chicken- I was told by a "mechanic" that he thought the problem was the EGR, so i went for it... O well now its black instead of nasty gray,
 
egr would cause a miss all over the place not just 1 cyl same withe the reg if the miss is only on cyl 2 focus there
 
fossten said:
I can't believe nobody mentioned oxygen sensors here.
Click to expand...

i hope your joking? o2's like the egr valve and many other components would cause a miss in many different cylinders, NOT just in 1 hole it has to be something in that cyl only, injector, plug, COP, wiring to the components of that cyl etc
 
02LSE96LSC91SE84TC said:
Lots of people run the 255 without issue. I think it can kill the stock regulator though.
Click to expand...

I have a year and a half on a stock '97 regulator running a 255lph.

My car had the same issue with misfireing only when the engine was warm. I replaced the COP assembly; Boot, Wire, Coil. When I took the assmebly out, oil soaked and dirty, A quick cleaning of the spark plug was in order. I choose to replace all the plugs and the issue was resolved.

Have you inspected the; sparkplug, boot, wire (spring) yet?

Oh, yeah... it's a good idea to check and cross check data from different sites.

>Chicken... I don't know about if he looks like a Sally... maybe a Carol. (lol)

:cool:
 
Ive replaced everything except the fuel injector, which i hope to god that its the problem. cause if not then im F'd

Im going to get the injector today and see if that resolves my problem
 
Could be a broken valve spring, I hope not for your sake. I must say it's rare to hear a Beehive valvespring go bad though.
 
When the COP start going bad, more than one usually does.

Any way you can run a cylinder balance test under load and see what COP is weak. They have a tendency to come and go as they go bad. You need to run the torque converter up to around 2000 rpm to really show a weak coil.

Is the miss under load? Ie. Part throttle?

Other thing is spark plug gap. Check the gaps and make sure they are not bigger than .054.

.048 to .050 preferred.

3rd is injector. Run some injector cleaner thru the gas tank. I like the Berryman B-12 Chemtool that can be bought at Walmart for $3.00 for a 15 oz can. Run that stuff thru about 3 times. You don't happen to buy $hitgo gas, do you?
 
I have my gap set at .058 with the GMS coils and the car runs perfect, the wider the gap you can run without misfiring the better your engine will run.
 
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