What else could cause the issue when one side is blowing hot air while the setting for both sides is equal? DATC? Heater Core? Something else under the dash? DCCV already changed. Especially it gets hotter on one side when accelerating. while sitting still the difference is not so noticable. Car is '00 LS V8. Hope someone will help with some suggestions (except visit dealer, because here in Latvia there are no Lincoln dealers and LS is quite rare here).
DCCV replaced, still having one side warmer issue
- Thread starter MarisK
- Start date
There is 3 things it can be you already did one. THere is another part behind the radio. And the third part you don't want to even know about because you have to pull the whole dash $$$$$$$. If you do a search there is some info on the other two parts just look for the tsb
LincolnTech38
Well-Known LVC Member
do you have a test light, see if you have power on the center wire at the DCCV connector.
Also a low refridgerent charge will cause the concern as well.
Jay
Also a low refridgerent charge will cause the concern as well.
Jay
JES_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
how about something simple like some debris in the plenum, I had a paper napkin get sucked in when I was running around with the ac on, it opened up and blocked most of the evaporator core and the right side of the car and rear was only moving hot air.
I borrowed a flexible scope from a friend that is a locksmith and poked it up thru the ac return until i could see it and grab it with the three fingered grabber end.
problem solved.
I borrowed a flexible scope from a friend that is a locksmith and poked it up thru the ac return until i could see it and grab it with the three fingered grabber end.
problem solved.
OK, as I understand next things are wireing, DATC, heater core and blower doors. Pressure and refrigerent levels are OK, those were checked some two weeks ago and there are no leaks in AC.
What should I look for in the wireing because this will be done next and also, what to do if the test light shows that there is no power on the middle wire at the DCCV? In some threads I saw that there could be corrosion in connectors - does somebody know where to look for those connectors (one is on the DCCV, another on the DATC, are there any more)? Also how hard is to get to the heater core?
I like my car and I am going to beat all those f@#$%ing problems!!!!
What should I look for in the wireing because this will be done next and also, what to do if the test light shows that there is no power on the middle wire at the DCCV? In some threads I saw that there could be corrosion in connectors - does somebody know where to look for those connectors (one is on the DCCV, another on the DATC, are there any more)? Also how hard is to get to the heater core?
I like my car and I am going to beat all those f@#$%ing problems!!!!
LincolnTech38
Well-Known LVC Member
well there should be power to that middle wire when the key is on.
If you find no power there, easiets thing to be would pop up the fuse box in the right front of the engine compartment, find a wire that has key on power and run a new wire right to the connector.
Jay
If you find no power there, easiets thing to be would pop up the fuse box in the right front of the engine compartment, find a wire that has key on power and run a new wire right to the connector.
Jay
JES_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
LincolnTech38 said:
Mind if I ask why are you going to run a new wire to replace the one in the harness??? Is there some particular part of the harness that breaks and creates and open circuit? It there an issue with some connectors corroding and failing?
I don't have the problem yet, but I figure I better understand the wiring problem so I can be ready to deal with it if and when it happens.
ToddG
Dedicated LVC Member
There are at least two TSBs on this issue. Here's a quote from one of them:
ISSUE Poor or no A/C cooling from the passenger or driver side vent on vehicles equipped with a Dual Automatic Temperature Control (DATC) system may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by debris trapped in the coolant valve and/or the DATC module unable to control the coolant valve.
ACTION Flush and/or replace the coolant valve and/or replace the DATC module. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
ISSUE Poor or no A/C cooling from the passenger or driver side vent on vehicles equipped with a Dual Automatic Temperature Control (DATC) system may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by debris trapped in the coolant valve and/or the DATC module unable to control the coolant valve.
ACTION Flush and/or replace the coolant valve and/or replace the DATC module. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
Thanks to those who sent me TSB service procedures. Today by following those procedures tested DATC system - no luck in finding problem 
All circuits needed to test measured more than 10 volts (one was about 10,5 other were about 14). Tomorrow evening or monday I will flush all my cooling system. If this does not help what to do next???
All circuits needed to test measured more than 10 volts (one was about 10,5 other were about 14). Tomorrow evening or monday I will flush all my cooling system. If this does not help what to do next???My 00 V6 is doing the same thing. I took it in for AC diag. The shop is telling me it is a heater/water control valve that is malfunctioning. The valve is $150-$230 depending on where you can find it. I do have a link for the part i found. I am told the labor is intense and the valve is between the radiator and engine. I am being told the total cost - $600. I have another shop looking at it today.
2001LS8Sport
Dedicated LVC Member
Wait a minute...he says the problem is worse under acceleration. That tells me he could be losing vacuum to a door motor. I would start with the service manual and find the motors for the blend doors. Use a vacuum tester and see if one is bad. It could also be a cracked line or fitting to the door. There should be a vacuum reservoir on the car to prevent door actuation under acceleration too. See if it's bad. But I have to admit something here...I have never had to check this on these cars. If they have electric motors, then all bets are off and ignore my thoughts here!!
bmoranmd10
LVC Member
Just received a call from my wife. Her 2000 LS8 Sport is cold on drivers side, warm on passenger side. Can someone send me the troubleshooting info? I know what I'll be doing this evening
bmoranmd10 said:Just received a call from my wife. Her 2000 LS8 Sport is cold on drivers side, warm on passenger side. Can someone send me the troubleshooting info? I know what I'll be doing this evening
Sounds like the coolant control (heater) valve. Mine did that intermittently for a long time. The valve finally failed a short time ago. I replaced the valve and all is well. The dealer will probably charge 2 hours plus the valve (~$150) plus replacing the coolant. I'd say minimum $450 job.
Seems like I found my problem - it looks like, there is a problem in wires and that is the reason it cannot close driver side valve properly. Hope today evening I will manage fix the problem Already located possible place where there are problems
Already located possible place where there are problems bmoranmd10 said:Just received a call from my wife. Her 2000 LS8 Sport is cold on drivers side, warm on passenger side. Can someone send me the troubleshooting info? I know what I'll be doing this evening
If you can wait till this evening and give me your e-mail address, I could send you info on how to troubleshoot your problem.
I had a local shop replace the DCCV and I am still not getting cold. The Ford TSB states that a variance of 10 degrees between the 2 sides is acceltable, so I get 60 degress on driver and 68 on passenger. I had no problems cooling before the issue started and with the replacement, I am not back to what it was. I have $350 in the dccv replacement and I have to have the dealership take a look at the issue.