Do I need a new steering rack?

[98lincmk7lsc]

I thought it was the inner tie rods that were loose (making clunking noises over every bump, and tie rods are the only thing not replaced recently), so I got ready to replace them and pulled the boots back and they are tight, it's actually the steering rack that's moving around. Not the whole assembly itself, but the part that the inner tie rods screw onto. I can use a pry bar and very easily move it up and down. It's got a good amount of play in it. I originally figured that it was the tie rods because when jacked up, I moved the wheels left and right at least and 1/8th of an inch.
Should the steering rack be replaced? There's one parts store in the whole tri-county area with ONE in stock and I'll probably go pick it up tomorrow.

 

[NoLimit95]

Yes, mine would do the same thing when I had it jacked up. I could grab the tire while it was up off the ground and move it back and forth. All the play was in the rack. Luckily the 93 parts car had a good rack in it. Pulled that one and then pulled mine and swapped them out. Now I don't have anymore play at all. Steering feels tighter and also when taking an exit ramp at around 40 to 50, it used to act like it was steering itself. The wheel would turn slight turns without me doing anything but now it doesn't do that anymore. Not a fun job to do but it's not too bad.

 

[kustomizingkid]

The rack is a PITA to swap... I'd set aside a full weekend...

 

[98lincmk7lsc]

Yeah, I can't wait. I should have all of Wednesday off, so I may try and do it that day. We'll see.

 

[NoLimit95]

Yeah, I can't wait. I should have all of Wednesday off, so I may try and do it that day. We'll see.

It can be done within an hour or so with help but without help, you're looking at a good days job. I would rather do 5 Gen 1 IAC's before doing another rack again.

 

[kustomizingkid]

It's the lines that make it a biotch...

 

[NoLimit95]

It's the lines that make it a biotch...

Yep, the spot they have them in is made for hands of a 2 year old lol. Then getting the steering joint connected back again. Had mine nearly 2 foot off the ground in the front and it was still hard to do.

 

[kustomizingkid]

I can't wait to put my flaming river joint on, that one is going to be fun!!!

 

[98lincmk7lsc]

So, do you guys think this is making the clunking noises? Just want to make sure....

 

[dnsherrill]

revive:
I'm wondering about mine in the white car; all new front end but there still seems like too much steering wheel 'play'....no noises
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check it by removing inner tie rod ends and try to move it up/down?

 

[chris2523]

yeah, mine would clunk when moved up and down.
not much movement, but it was there.

 

[dnsherrill]

my clunk went away with that cracked strut mount,....oops :shifty:
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I'm just looking for a tighter steering wheel

 

[98lincmk7lsc]

FWIW, the clunk I was having was remedied by removing the Arnott front air shocks. They had the "Arnott rattle".

Anyway, I did end up replacing the steering rack (this was on my white 97, btw), and it did tighten up the steering wheel play. I don't know if it really "needed" to be replaced, but it certainly didn't hurt...

 

[98lincmk7lsc]

Dnsherill, my friend should still have the steering rack that I replaced. We actually parted out the car a couple months ago, and I'm pretty sure it's still attached to the front k-member sitting in his backyard.

He'd probably let it go cheap, but I don't know how much shipping would be for something like that. You have any reason to come to the Columbia area any time soon?

 

[achesonm8]

Gawd I wish I had not read this ...now I will have to check mine! So does anyone who reads these threads know if the passenger side motor mount can only be replaced by dropping the subframe. I took my 8 to a local shop and he quoted me a worst case scenario of 600 for replacing the mount, repair the broken stud that holds the air manifold to the throttle body, replace the steering wheel with a "new" one. It sounds like a reasonable quote so I gave him the go ahead. I had to bite my lip howver when he said he thinks I made a mistake not doing a coli conversion. I was hoping to find a procedure on this forum or evidence that one could replace the p-side motor mount without dropping the subframe...but just to really try to educate him with the details of this car...that could backfire (pun inteneded)! Blah Blah...thanks. I have been focused on my 91 Bimmer so my restoration progess is slow but a sure thing!

 

[Sapperfire]

$600? Parts included?

Easy way is to disco battery, drop exhaust pipes (cats back) , drop starter, remover lower bolt thru sub-frame, slightly lift engine with trans jack, remove mount bolts from block, install new mount. Reverse

A good tech could have this done and back on the ground in less than an hour and a half

 

[Lownslowlsc]

$600? Parts included?

Easy way is to disco battery, drop exhaust pipes (cats back) , drop starter, remover lower bolt thru sub-frame, slightly lift engine with trans jack, remove mount bolts from block, install new mount. Reverse

A good tech could have this done and back on the ground in less than an hour and a half

Close, but wrong thread.

 

[Sapperfire]

Close, but wrong thread.

Not if you read the post directly before my last