Dreaded Gear Display Error

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warrioralumni08

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Well, it's been a longggg time since I have been on here, since the Geno and Bill days. Eventually got out of the Mark VIII game, and went to Mustangs, owned about 3, fixed 6 all together. Now I am back in it, and purchased a 97 Gen 2. As stated, it has the problem above, and the gear selector just goes nuts and goes off. P0705 was the code, and I already replaced the mlps, and aligned it correctly in neutral, tightened everything, put it in reverse, lights came on. Problem still persists as the car will slip into neutral when in drive, around 50-60, but in second I can drive around 50-60, just the rpms are turning around 3500. Checked wiring near the trans, all looked good. Will further inspect and clean if needed. My question is, should I move onto the ECU next, and swap them out? Now, could it be a pressure solenoid also, because you can go wot and it will run through the gears fine in drive, but as soon as you left off, and give it gas again, it just revs. Never encountered this problem before when I owned a gen 1 and 2, so this is new to me.
 
Installed a different ECU, no change. Could the VSS be causing this? Other then that, I have another spare mlps that I can try out and see. Maybe the new one is faulty? If nothing works, I guess only thing left is wiring and connectors.
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Well, it's been a longggg time since I have been on here, since the Geno and Bill days. Eventually got out of the Mark VIII game, and went to Mustangs, owned about 3, fixed 6 all together. Now I am back in it, and purchased a 97 Gen 2. As stated, it has the problem above, and the gear selector just goes nuts and goes off. P0705 was the code, and I already replaced the mlps, and aligned it correctly in neutral, tightened everything, put it in reverse, lights came on. Problem still persists as the car will slip into neutral when in drive, around 50-60, but in second I can drive around 50-60, just the rpms are turning around 3500. Checked wiring near the trans, all looked good. Will further inspect and clean if needed. My question is, should I move onto the ECU next, and swap them out? Now, could it be a pressure solenoid also, because you can go wot and it will run through the gears fine in drive, but as soon as you left off, and give it gas again, it just revs. Never encountered this problem before when I owned a gen 1 and 2, so this is new to me.
Click to expand...
PO 7O5 can be indication of a worn neutral safety switch
 
Are you sure its plugged in all the way and stays in while shifting? Mine used to come out whenever i shifted from park
 
I am in the same boat as you, new MLPS, two different ECMs, and it shows in park when I start it up, then as soon as I shift it it sometimes stops in park then goes out, or the light goes out and the error displays.

I had to fix it to pass the emissions test, I took apart the harness and cleaned it up from the oil it is soaked in from the engine leak, and that plus the ECM got it to stop lighting the CEL so it would pass emissions, but a week later it is back.

As far as your drivability concerns, I don't like the way mine drives without knowing what gear it is in, but it only seems to be an issue when attempting to manually select second. I can electronically lock out OD, but manually selecting second I get no engine braking, and it "disconnects", I can freely rev it up until the rpm of the engine matches the speed, then it engages and I can feel it putting power down.
 
Well, I fixed the gear display error. New mlps was missing one pin, so I found an old one laying around, and problem solved. Gear indicator works fine on dash, but still having trans issues. Shifts 1-2 fine, but after that you can feel like it wants to shift, then just revs, unless you go wot, then the thing goes through the gears fine, until you let off, then it just revs again. I'm going to install a new epc solenoid, hoping it fixes it, if not well I guess I will assume the trans is toast. Nothing of concern was in the pan when taken off, nor in the filter.
 
I have determined it is toast. Fluid looked good, and was at proper level. Good thing I have another spare lying around. Might even try to rebuild the one that comes out. They actually don't look too hard too rebuild. Pretty sure the direct clutch drive discs are burnt.
 
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