engine goes ...click click click click

S

sneth

LVC Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Location
STL
try to start, and i get clicking noises. Nothing turns over. Last time i had this happen the mechanic played around with it for a few days and just said the engine was flooded. He said if it happens again to just floor the pedal and start it. Well, so for that has not worked. Both times this happened i was under 50miles left on the tank. So, solenoid, fuel pump, battery, flooded?

98 LSC
 
eh?Your mechanic sounds like he needs a chiltons or something.If your just turning the key and your getting click.Its either bad starter,Weak or corroded connection positive or neg cable.Dead battery etc.If it isnt (turning over) it cant possibly be fuel related.Get a new mechanic quick.Check your battery cables first then go from there.Good luck
 
check the connections to the battery, and charge the battery. that usualy fixes the clicking sound.

Ok so thats not always the case.
 
Run far away. That guy is a moron. Check the battery voltage and the battery cables. Sometimes they get corroded or work loose.
 
well my mission starts today then. Been long time troll on these forums , but never posted. I'm usually pro forum search man.

So far i have cleaned the connectors till they shine. I'm off to buy a new battery. This one is at least 3 yrs, prolly more. The lights and everything work, but i've been told that is not always a good indicator of a dying battery.
thx
 
i had the same problem on my 88lsc. I noticed that the positive battery terminal and wire was so corroded that i just changed that and put in a new battery and terminal and wire and so far so good.
 
***Update***

Went to town on the battery system. Damn thing was sparkling and had brand new battery. Mark fired up like nothing was ever wrong. Very wierd symptoms for a dead battery, since my lights and everything seemed to move at full speed.

Extra note, the manual reminds you to let the car idle for a minute or so after installing a new battery. The car relearns the idle settings this way. I think this actually did me some good, because a lot of lil memory glitches and idle problems seem to be gone now.
 
sneth said:
Very wierd symptoms for a dead battery, since my lights and everything seemed to move at full speed.
Click to expand...

Not really, your lights don't require much power and can function at 12V or probably a little below that. When you put the load of starting your car on the battery, the voltage will drop, and not give it enough juice to turn over.
 
Man i tell ya the simplist thigs will keep a car down. Like wire corrosion in the positive and negative wires i had to change them both. They were green and brown on the inside of them. Glad to read that your back up and running.
 
If battery was only 3 years old, test your altenator. 3 years old is not OLD for a battery today at all.
 
sneth said:
***Update***

Went to town on the battery system. Damn thing was sparkling and had brand new battery. Mark fired up like nothing was ever wrong. Very wierd symptoms for a dead battery, since my lights and everything seemed to move at full speed.

Extra note, the manual reminds you to let the car idle for a minute or so after installing a new battery. The car relearns the idle settings this way. I think this actually did me some good, because a lot of lil memory glitches and idle problems seem to be gone now.
Click to expand...

The Marks do love their batteries and when they start to go ... all kinds of gremilins pop up. Glad to see you are back on the road!
 
The reason for the clicking yet good lights etc was the starter solenoid - it may be deteriorating and thus more sensitive to voltage then it should be, or more likely, due to a battery with good VOLTAGE but low AMPERAGE (what is sold as "cold cranking amps" as a battery performance measure) it engaged, then instantly disengaged as you put a large load (current draw) on the marginal battery.

The solenoid is an electromagnetic device that controls a large switch on the positive side of the starter circuit - and it clicks when it engages or disengages.

I'd say you found the root cause...

(ex LM engineer)
 
I too have a simaliar problem, at first I thought it was a bad ground. Repalced battery terminals and brand new battery.
I feel that a iginition control module of somesort is blown//shorted....
When I get in car COLD it starts just fine, and their is a loud clicking noise coming from dash soundsl ike behind on board monitor, but yet car starts.

If car warms up and I try starting starter is dead NOT GETTING POWER. Maybe a slugish crank if im lucky. If car sits untile cold again she starts fine. Its supper strange, i consider myself a all around good mechanic but would like some suggestions where to start... I feel this loud clicking that has been click and clacking when car starts is a point to start at, im gona hook up the ford-A1 this weekend to get im sure a million body codes..

Does any one know what modules are directly behind glove box and on-board display monitor screen???


93 mark VIII
:-/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 299 (members: 1, guests: 298)
Back
Top