etc, abs, ck eng lite, and more

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lsmakemecry

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Now I've read a lot of threads that had some of my symptoms and problems but did not give a fix to what I have going on. So i'm going to give my problem and history. I am the 2nd owner as of nov 2014, of a 95400 mis, v8 2003 ls w/adv trac, 5s tranny.

1st owner stopped driving her 2013 when she went into limp mode (etc). He took it to thread quarter and they replaced speed sensor located at tail end of tranny and upper control arms. He also had other codes with sensors, throttle body, misfire, and speed. In November right before i got her she was taken to dealer and they managed to find a reason to change the egr, sensors, but not the coils (SO F EM), I got coils from eBay, change out plugs, and and all but three codes clear. ..p2106-throttle force close......u1039-scp data fault for vss..and oxygen code...car still in limp mode with dashboard messages "etc mode, ck adv-trac, ck tranny". If I turn car on and off limp mode wld clear.

Took her to a tranny shop and they stated the tranny was fine and give me this list of codes. ...p0500-vehicle speed sensor fault. ..p0581-cruise malfunction. ..u1039-scp data fault for vss...p2106...b1342-fault control module abs. Note, when she go limp at this point the speedometer would stop working and the dashboard would light up with the trac, abs, brake and ck eng. I could turn her off and on to clear all and I noticed that when i'm coasting with the eng off but key on the speedometer would work. Another weird thing, if it's cold outside she run like a stallion, after 20 mins or later in the day codes will appear and limp mode.

I was sent to an engine shop who sent me to a electronic shop who attempted to strong arm me for $350 just to tell codes I already had, not to fix mind you. so I "limp" away with my codes and pride thinking that if I just change out the vss and oxgen everything will clear up. Didn't happen, i changed both vss and oxgen so now the two codes I'm able to pull is p2106 and u1039. But now turning the car on and off doesn't clear limp mode. Still getting etc, ck tranny, ck adv-trac, and now service brakes on message board. And the cold weather doesn't matter.

I got someone to test the wss and all 4 ck out good. He also pull new codes with the other three (p2106, b1342, u1039). New code c1095-hydraulic motor. I plan to get an abs module from the junkyard. But I just don't feel like that's the problem. Looking for real opinions, real suggestions, real answers.

So what is my problem. ..codes p2106, c1095, b1342, u1039....adv-trac, brake, abs, and engine lights are on (not blinking), message board reads "ck tranny", "ck adv-trac", "service parking brakes", and "etc" limp mode....speedometer not working.
what have I done...new coils, plugs, oxygen sensor, vehicle speed sensor, ck wheel speed sensor which are good, ck brakes, test battery and alt, and all brake lines test by friend and his device that test the wss while driving.
 
What are you calling the VSS? There is no vehicle speed sensor on the LS. The ABS provides the VSS. It determines it from the wheel speed sensors. (The output shaft speed sensor in the transmission is not the VSS.) Problems with the ABS will cause one type of ETC failsafe mode. You could also have problems with the data bus wiring. I'd get rid of those e-bay coils. You really should put in OEM (Motorcraft) coils and new spark plugs (set to 1.0 mm gap).
 
joegr said:
What are you calling the VSS? There is no vehicle speed sensor on the LS. The ABS provides the VSS. It determines it from the wheel speed sensors. (The output shaft speed sensor in the transmission is not the VSS.) to po Problems with the ABS will cause one type of ETC failsafe mode. You could also have problems with the data bus wiring. I'd get rid of those e-bay coils. You really should put in OEM (Motorcraft) coils and new spark plugs (set to 1.0 mm gap).
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Chilton. ...found the vss information in Chilton and other books abt diagnostic. They had a diagram of tranny and call the sensors TSS, OSS, and VSS. The sensor on the tail end of tranny is the VSS. They called the abs sensors WSS....and the 1st owner handed me the receipt from tread quarter and it read they change the vss, I went to them and asked which one.

I recently found out that she is sensitive to parts...so I intend to change them but my focus is getting rid of current problems, and I changed the plugs from nkg to autolite. So this data base wiring, this is just the connection from point a to b? So the abs module is in the trunk right? And the pcm/ecm is under the ac filter? So thats all the advice u have for me? Actually you and 3 others is why I'm here, I read a lot of your comments.

Side question, do you know how to test coils? I'm thinking of putting in the original back in. I only had misfire on 2..I just changed them all.
 
And can I use junkyard mod? Any particular look or wording I need to pay attention to for an exact match
 
Chilton is wrong on a lot of things. I'd stick to the factory service manual if I were you. It would save you from wasting money on swapping good parts that aren't even involved in your problems.

The ABS module is under the hood at the front right.
NKG is the correct OEM plug for the LS.
The data bus wiring runs all over the car, and could be shorted anywhere. Usually, when there is a problem, it is in the wiring bundle at the front right of the car.
Why are you asking about the PCM? If you swap it, you will have to tow the car to a dealer before it will start again.

Testing the coils requires equipment that costs in the thousands. I am guessing that you don't have it. Once one fails, the rest are usually close behind.
 
joegr said:
Chilton is wrong on a lot of things. I'd stick to the factory service manual if I were you. It would save you from wasting money on swapping good parts that aren't even involved in your problems.

The ABS module is under the hood at the front right.
NKG is the correct OEM plug for the LS.
The data bus wiring runs all over the car, and could be shorted anywhere. Usually, when there is a problem, it is in the wiring bundle at the front right of the car.
Why are you asking about the PCM? If you swap it, you will have to tow the car to a dealer before it will start again.

Testing the coils requires equipment that costs in the thousands. I am guessing that you don't have it. Once one fails, the rest are usually close behind.
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Well I'm doing all the wrk so $25 for a motorcraft part and my time is no big deal. I have the money but it doesn't sound like a sound investment being that I'm only a backyard mechanic. Any...just left the junkyard, found a abs module. ..need to make sure it's goodand the numbers match up...don't want to f that up. Also got a new window and motor for passenger front....thats a long story and I dont want to lose focus but dont go to sears for ****.
Was talking with some ppl and they think I need to change out the throttle body, they said clear the codes, reset the pcm and ck to get it out of limp mode then ck to see if the throttle open with the gas. I swear I did that b4 but I just remember the outcome, any...I was told by the dealership that the throttle body has to b replace whole...b when I look at it I see wiries connecting to the throttle on BOTH sides. One side looks to be a sensor (that I was under the impression the dealership changed out) and the othe side looks to be the throttle body motor. Now if u understand what I'm saying then tell me why it cant be changed in parts?
 
lsmakemecry said:
...Was talking with some ppl and they think I need to change out the throttle body, ...
Click to expand...

Common mistake. It would be a waste of time and money. You already have codes indicating the reason for the ETC failsafe.
 
Ok....is there a way to test this abs module? Do u suggest I separate the mod from the hydraulic pump or use both?
 
lsmakemecry said:
Ok....is there a way to test this abs module?
Click to expand...

of course there is, the dealer uses a fancy tool and the factory service manual Joe referred to for all the steps to test it

lsmakemecry said:
Do u suggest I separate the mod from the hydraulic pump or use both?
Click to expand...

that depend on what is actually broke, which would depend on the test.
 
lsmakemecry said:
Was talking with some ppl and they think I need to change out the throttle body
Click to expand...

I guess you can go ahead and throw money at it, but the throttle body rarely ever fails, however a ton of throttle bodies have been replaced unnecessarily due to sh!tty or failing coils and bad troubleshooting.

one of the biggest problems with the LS is coils starting to fail (correct terminology is marginal)... one of the most common side effects of a marginal coil (especially coils #3 and #4 but can happen with others) is that they emit RF interference, the cars computer mis-reads this interference as a problem with the TB and will throw TB codes and kick into limp mode/failsafe mode...



lsmakemecry said:
Now if u understand what I'm saying then tell me why it cant be changed in parts?
Click to expand...

mostly because like a lot of car parts, they only sell you the whole assembly.
 
Ok....so last two days she started acting like the beginning, being able to turn it on/off and it will clear...someone told me to change the brake fluid. ...ever heard that
 
Ok....so my 5 month problem turn out to be the abs module. ...how 1300.00 to dealer and they couldn't find this...with all the tools and electronic devices they were unable to isolate my systoms to abs? Boy am I piss and excited at the same time but now I believe my tranny has been strained so im going to a best place in the state to get her cked. ..and how do I know PRICES tranny is the best....well any shop that can tear down and rebuild a tranny 6 out of 6 times and those cars are still on the rd with no problem ever again with tranny. ...and 2 of those cars are Honda....lol
 
So what's going on now is a lack of trust between me and the dealership. ....I believe they did something to throw a new alarm. ...yaw sensor. ..and they are say the module wouldn't take the full flash because it isn't a match but anyone that can read and see know that the model number are a match dwn to ivd. So I took the vin number of the car it came from and asked parts dept to tell me if the car had advtrac and. It did. So now out of nowhere I'm getting c codes for the yaw and the trac light is blinking. ...never have my light blink. I put the new abs module in and it didn't blink...stay on with abs light but no blinking. Take it to them for a flash and now it blinks and im starting to smell gas thru vents...so I put old mod back in....no blinking but all old codes come back...put in one that I know isnt a match and I cant get out of park...put in the replacement and it's flashing. ...any insight

Now what I forgot to say the 120$ charge was drop but they wouldn't give me the codes or the paper work that was written up...
 
There is a calibration procedure that probably needs to be run. It's also possible that your YAW sensor is bad and that the other module had so many problems that it didn't even get far enough to report a problem with the YAW sensor.

Smelling gasoline in the cabin seems like a really bad thing that should be looked into...
 
joegr said:
There is a calibration procedure that probably needs to be run. It's also possible that your YAW sensor is bad and that the other module had so many problems that it didn't even get far enough to report a problem with the YAW sensor.

Smelling gasoline in the cabin seems like a really bad thing that should be looked into...
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Well it's not a strong smell. ..very faint but I know it's there. So this sensor puts out 5 or 12v and who need to calibrate it?
 
lsmakemecry said:
... So this sensor puts out 5 or 12v and who need to calibrate it?
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It's way, way more complicated than that. You won't be able to test it.
Calibration is initiated with a scan tool and involves a little driving and turning, if I recall correctly.
 
joegr said:
It's way, way more complicated than that. You won't be able to test it.
Calibration is initiated with a scan tool and involves a little driving and turning, if I recall correctly.
Click to expand...
Same device that measures wss while your driving? Got a guy that have one and he really don't know what his scanner can do till situation arises. Older guy that likes to leave researching alone. ...got it from an auction
 
lsmakemecry said:
Same device that measures wss while your driving? Got a guy that have one and he really don't know what his scanner can do till situation arises. Older guy that likes to leave researching alone. ...got it from an auction
Click to expand...

No, not at all. It is a yaw (you know, like "roll", "pitch" and "yaw" on an airplane) sensor. It measure rotational acceleration of the car. When the car starts sliding in a direction that it is not being steered in, this is what senses it. It has nothing to do with absolute vehicle speed. This sensor is only on LSes with AdvanceTrac.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flight_dynamics_(fixed-wing_aircraft)
 
joegr said:
No, not at all. It is a yaw (you know, like "roll", "pitch" and "yaw" on an airplane) sensor. It measure rotational acceleration of the car. When the car starts sliding in a direction that it is not being steered in, this is what senses it. It has nothing to do with absolute vehicle speed. This sensor is only on LSes with AdvanceTrac.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flight_dynamics_(fixed-wing_aircraft)
Click to expand...

No I wasn't asking if it had something to do with the wss....I was asking if the same device that test wss test the yaw. I know dude test my brakes. ..bleed the pump and some other things so I'm thinking it can work the yaw too
 
lsmakemecry said:
...I was asking if the same device that test wss test the yaw. ...
Click to expand...

Ford WDS/VCM? Sure. (He's not the same one that lead you to believe that the VSS came from a sensor on the transmission is he?)
 
joegr said:
Ford WDS/VCM? Sure. (He's not the same one that lead you to believe that the VSS came from a sensor on the transmission is he?)
Click to expand...
Lol...nah. ..so now I need to find another module. ..or do I pay this dude $85 to run a diagnostic
 
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