Factory Radio Replacement Project - 2005 Navigator w/ THX

Elemino

Dedicated LVC Member
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Location
Dallas, TX
Purpose: I own a 2005 Lincoln Navigator (IMO the best looking ones made to date 03~06), and it is one seriously luxurious vehicle. To add to the luxury I have installed a Clifford 50.7x remote start alarm, HID headlights (6000k) & fog lights (3000k), a daytime running circuit I designed and installed for the fogs, and drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads.

The Problem: My Navigator has the THX Navigation system with the RSE (rear seat entertainment). It is old and outdated, and IMO not up to par with the rest of the luxury. The system sounded great, so for the longest I have debated if it was worth a replacement. However, a 6 disc CD changer with no MP3 playback, seriously outdated maps with a $200 upgrade price, and one other serious problem has prompted a complete system replacement.

That other serious problem will be known to anyone that has attempted to install an aftermarket radio in these trucks. I bought a Pioneer Z120BT double din radio to replace the factory radio. I quickly learned there is no integration kit available for the THX system. I have talked to people from Metro as well as PAC, and they tell me the problem is there is no way to turn on the factory amplifier that drives every speaker and the subwoofer in the truck. I don't know if that is true or not, but without a way to integrate the radio, it doesn't matter.

Solution: Full system replacement.

I have already installed the radio, and I installed the Kappa Perfect 6.1 speakers I had in the Town Car in my truck. I also installed a PAC SWI-PS Interface module that allows you to keep the steering wheel control functions. There is a kit that will allow you to retain audio output from the RSE, but since I never used it, I'm not too concerned. It will, however, be replaced with an aftermarket unit that can better read burned discs.

The next step is to install an aftermarket sub woofer. I'm using an 8" Kicker Solo Classic 09S8C4 with dual 4ohm voice coils, rated at 300 watts RMS. To power the entire system, I will install an Alpine PDX-5 5 channel amplifier. The amp is rated at 75w x 4 plus a 300w x 1 mono output. The sub woofer will go in the factory sub's location and box.

Below are some of my install pics:

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Painted to match the interior. This is Krylon Fusion paint and the color is Satin.

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Make sure to run the wire on the FRONT side of the window rail! It wont be pretty if you go on the back side!

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This photo shows the crossovers being installed in the door. They were actually installed in the interior and the wires from the crossovers into the doors. Running wires in the doors is a pain in the butt! (Especially the front doors... ESPECIALLY the driver door!) I probably should have used fish tape, but I don't have any.

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I used foam baffles behind the speakers. It probably isn't necessary on these new Lincolns with all the sound deadening materials they use. Still, I know I will eventually amplify these (with a sub woofer in the truck) and the foam baffles enhance the mids while tightening the upper end bass response.

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http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/GPS-Navigation/AVIC-Z120BT
 
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Factory Navigation Unit [Deleted]

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Alpine PDX-5 5 Channel Amp (75 x 4 @ 4 Ohms + 300 x 1 @ 2 Ohms)

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Kicker 8" Solo-Classic Dual 4 Ohm Voice-Coils 300w 09S8C4

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Initial Test (Works fine, but no sub at this point)

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This was NOT easy to get to. Torx bit needed to remove seat belts. T-50

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Stuck at the moment. The factory sub box is not as deep as others have said it is. I need a spacer to go between the woofer and the box. The entire box must be removed because the factory sub uses a bolt through the rear to help hold the sub in place. You'll need a deep 10mm socket for those bolts, and a 10 mm wrench for the bottom bolt. I lucked out and had both in my mechanics socket set by Husky.

To be continued...
 
With 5/8" spacer ring made by my local stereo shop. ($30... available for $10 on ebay. Order before doing this project)

Don't do what Ford did on the polyfill. (Available at Wal-Mart in the crafts / sewing section) Stuff it liberally! Stuff every nook and cranny of the box, and stuff it tight. Use weather stripping (from home depot) to seal the ring to the box and seal the sub to the ring. Any air that escapes will make it sound bad, and will diminish performance. Use some silicone sealant as well... Choose the type that doesn't shrink, dry or crack.

Screws are hex head #10 x 2". DO NOT USE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS! You need 16 screws and 16 #10 washers.

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Notice the two screws coming from the side of the box. That's what I connected the internal wires to. The holes were barely big enough to force the screws through with a hammer. (Keep it air tight!) That's what the wires connect to which power the sub.

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The result of all this work? An absolutely amazing sounding system! It can play at high volume, and sounds BETTER than the THX system sounds at low and medium volume. Now I have MP3, DVD, DIVX, Bluetooth, Phone Integration, SDHC, USB, AUX, iPhone/iPod, (available XM & Sirius, HD Radio) play and connections. Throw in much better and updated maps for navigation. Now my luxury SUV is current day true luxury...
 
Wow good job. Wish I had the electrical know how to replace the system in my truck. I get tired of it cutting out whenever it feels like it. I also would like to put a better sub in the back.
 
IMO this is pretty much a DIY job. You could pay someone, but with the amount of work it took to do all this, it wouldn't be cheap by any means. If you decide to go to a shop, you can just show them this page. I looked high and low before doing this, and there is little to no information on replacing the subwoofer on this truck. After months of research, I was only able to find 1 picture of what the sub and box actually looked like. That's why I took the time to post this.

There aren't many 5 channel amps out there. The one I have was just recently discontinued by Alpine. $600 retail (even at discontinued, clearance price right now). I bought it last week for $300 from a kid off craigslist.

The most difficult thing is finding an 8" Sub Woofer that can handle the power. The sub I used is the Kicker Solo-Baric Classic. 300 Watts RMS. Most 8" subs only handle 250 or less, and most 5 channel amps are 300 to 500 Watts on the output.

If you do this, good luck!
 
I have talked to people from Metro as well as PAC, and they tell me the problem is there is no way to turn on the factory amplifier that drives every speaker and the subwoofer in the truck.

They are wrong - a 5V signal to the "enable" pin (pin 22 on the amp's 24 pin connector - found in the 18 pin connector on the back of the factory HU) turns on the amp. Use AFDI-5V to turn 12V from aftermarket HU amp turn on wire to 5V. Your right that there is no interface kit, so you'll have to get creative on connecting 5V signal and the 5 channels from the HU's RCA pre-outs to the harness.
 

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