Front... Rotors...

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MatthewDavid

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Hello... Lookin at the this thread I know this topic has been beat to death... but I couldn't really find the answer I wanted... my car has a little shake when you're slowing down at high speeds... I figure it's the front rotors... alright... I have a friend that said he'd help me swap them out... or take them to get machined... the difference in cost is about 60 bucks... I figure I might as well get new ones... I mean why risk it right?... also I'll know they're nice and shiney new :)... alright my ?? is... should I get the brake pads too?... I'm not sure if they're new or not... also I'm lookin at the R-1 concept brand... read on here that they're not that bad... and for the price they're asking it sounds like a good plan...

R1 Concepts Brake Rotors and Pads

Slotted ones

Those are the ones I'm lookin at... it's a street car so I figure I might as well not worry about drilled and slotted... but to shorten it up... the ??'s are... should I replace the brake pads?... should I go with drilled and slotted? and is it alright to change just the fronts for now? thanks!!!
 
Drill and slotted are a better way to go as they are designed to keep the brakes cooler.

When replacing rotors it's always best to also replace the pads.

If the rotors are not bad you can have them spun at least once before replacing the rotors.

You don't have to replace the rear when replacing the front.

But it's best to do all.
 
Hawk pads along with Brembo blanks from Tire Rack are good @ $59 a pop.
 
If you turn the rotors - find a place that does it on the car (on the car brake lathe) - much better!

Once you get drilled and slotted (BTW, I have the R1 d/s and love em) you may not be able to get them turned. i have not found a shop that does them, not that mine need them I just like to have my options ready.
 
whah? they can do that?

That's weird... they can turn them on the car?... everywhere I found that can do them requires you to take them off... or they charge 60 bucks a side to take them off for you!... that's a rip off!!... I don't even know what I'm doin and I can see that's a total jip!... I have a mechanic friend that said he's gonna help me... we're gonna measure them and see if new ones would be better... if they are I'm gonna go with the drilled and slotted... just for the zinc plating... figure might as well spend the extra 20 bucks... he's also gonna teach me how to change the pads and stuff... hopefully my IQ goes up afterward :D
 
the only prob with turning them is they will heat up and warp faster, none of this matters to me since i have a stack of taurus take off's (markviii share rotors with some later models) they will warp and i dont want a cust coming back bitchin about their brakes shaking and for around the same price just get new
 
I have the R1 rotors on the 96, they work well but my front brakes are squeaking probably because I didn't use anti-squeal for the pads I used anti seize.
 
I have the R1 rotors and pads. Not drilled and slotted. They seem ok, but rust easily because they aren't coated.
 
I am sold on the Bendix Heavy duty rotors (not drilled or slotted) along with their Ceramix brake pads followed up with the Stop Tech break in procedure. Great brakes, no dust, no shakes, puuuuuuurfect.
 
Has anyone else had experience with these R1 concepts? For that price I'd love to hear people's comments.
 
Ok here is my 2 cents. I work for Performance Friction in the test department. From my experience testing rotors the cross drilled rotors do nothing for effectiveness it just causes stress cracks a lot sooner than without. The best way to go is slotted. I am bugging the owner of my company to produce a total setup for our cars ( calipers pads and rotors). Right now all we offer for the MK8 is front pads. As soon as i hear something is being developed i will let you guys know but shhhhhh dont tell. ;)
 
mespock said:
When replacing rotors it's always best to also replace the pads...

But it's best to do all.
Click to expand...

You sound like a Pep Boys salesman. Either that or you're repeating something you've always heard.

1. You do NOT have to replace the pads unless they need replacing. Flat surface on flat surface = the same wear. I just replaced my rotors a month ago and left the old pads in. Smoooooth sailing. If you do buy pads, get cheap $10 pads. You can always replace them for another $10 a year later.

2. Do it yourself. It's much cheaper. In fact, you can replace the fronts for less money than a shop will charge to turn them, unless you know somebody. You can do it yourself in 45 minutes for about 40 bucks. Get some Brake Kleen and spray the new rotors and your entire brake assembly and put 'em on.

3. Make sure you put grease in the caliper pins. The favorite trick of brake shops (yes, famous ones too!) is to deliberately fail to regrease the caliper pins, thus eventually causing the calipers to fail. It only takes 5 minutes to do, but they strangely omit this REQUIRED step, knowing you will be back in their shop more than likely needing brand spanking new calipers.

4. Don't waste your money getting drilled, slotted rotors unless you want to take pics and post them and brag about them. They are mostly cosmetic and sometimes cause problems with cracking and/or scoring the brake pads.
 
Yay

So yeah I just took a crash course... um maybe that's not a good word... well i learned all about rotors last night :D... got them machined and my gf and I did 98% of the work! didn't cost a thing sept time... thanks for the help guys!... it was a lot easier than I thought... the rear ones i hear aren't... but I think I'm still gonna get some slotted ones sometime... but maybe when I get my new rims :D thanks again!!
 
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